Project DTZr.....a DT125R love story
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Do you know the ID number of your CDI bud? I’m guessing that you can use any early one if you have a 3 coil stator? I don’t know what the postage is to Greece but I’ve got one you could use to swap out and check if it is the CDI…
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@Calum Yep, happened to me as well!
The actual coil on DTRs is very good quality so it's well worth fitting a new lead even to an older one; you can cut off the very top of the coil's outer case where the lead pushes in with a junior hacksaw, pull out the old lead and solder the new one to the coil output for a really good connection. Then re-waterproof using Shoe Goo and electrical tape. Looks messy but no-one can see it under the tank.
I had a high-rpm misfire once, after trying everything else we replaced the HT lead in the manner described above which took around 1 hour on a summer's day so the engine was neither stone cold or up to temperature when I took it for a test ride. It wheelied out of the driveway without me even trying, and I couldn't believe how much better the performance was at all engine speeds. Made a big impression on me as I was 17 at the time and I'd spent practically a weekend trying to fix the bike and getting nowhere.
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OKay, it’s:
3NC -00
93NBelieve it, or not!
…But I’m in the UK & have no monies till a week Wednesday (8 days)
If postage can be sorted out I’ve no problems lending it to you for testing, or selling it if it cures your problems…Have you swapped out the magnetic pickup? The wire can break inside the insulation where it exits the crank case…
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@SpookDog Is it working ok?How much you will sell it (pm the price)?
No I did not,used the whole stator that came (a 3MB-00) but bike does the same like mine the 3NC-00.Both stators are with in specs,checked with a multimeter according the service manual. -
While measuring by curiosity,I noticed something not right.
Measuring point is battery connectors with a multi-meter.
Charging voltage with battery is 14.8v at 3000rpm,voltage without battery attached is 6.5v at 3000rpm.
I've managed to run it 2 time 2-3 mins each,the second time a dared to throttle it above 5000rpm it died no matter the kick start times no run.
Malfunctioning rectifier/regulator? -
Some regulators will not work without a healthy battery
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M MadGyver referenced this topic on
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When you’ve tried everything that is likely, all that’s left is the unlikely…
I think mr shadi had to disconnect the wires to the read switch while the revs were above 6-7000 for it to work…
I’d read his post through to be sure though…
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@Calum What can I check or test,any idea.
I have read topics here and on the old forum,the Yamaha club forum but no solution resolve my problem.
I'm on a dead end,followed the Yamaha service book,the Haynes, solutions from topics,whatever I could think,but now nothing. -
Sorry, I think I’ve confused you with another different thread. My bad 🫤 …Edit: Yeah, definitely misstuuke your Fred for another one. Sorry again. It was Har ptooie‘a thread I was thinking about…
It doesn’t help that every time I try and read back through this thread I get thrown back to post number 6! Is there some kind of lag with pics loading up? (iPhone user)
Do you have a power valve servo fitted? Have you tried running the bike with it disconnected? (If you do?) 5-6K seems like power valve territory…
Just hunching at anything that seems relatable… -
Managed to read the thread again! Need more info!
When it dies have you checked the plug? If so does the plug still spark? Is it wet?
I’m guessing that you have a solenoid box under the seat? (I have two) They are to do with the side stand switch/ignition cut out. Have you checked that these aren’t ‘firing off’ on their own @ 5K?
Have you got another key-ignition barrel you can swap out to try?
Have you checked the kill switch?I know that it might be reaching but you’re at the point where you have to try any&every-thing…
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@SpookDog The plug still sprarks but from the sides to the tip,not as it should,its' wet. I dry it and sparks still from the sides to the tip,it does it with new also. The spark is white and strong. I have changed spark plugs,spark cap,new original ignition coil.
Although a 4BL its a very early one (info from official Yamaha dealer in Greece with vin number) , it's cabling matches that of a 1989-90,original but refurbished by me to match the factory electrical.
Key switch is original used replaced the old damaged 5 years ago, it's mesured and is ok.Kill switch is refurbished by me to original and measured ok. The ignition system is measured step by step according the Yamaha service book and found ok.There is no solenoid under the seat,it doesn't exist in that model. Side stand switch is removed the right way, cabling reports always that side stand is up. With the side stand refitted does the same,side stand works ok.
I haven't try to disconnect the PV that you suggested before. It's 3 wire servo.
