So Close!...

[HOTSHOT III]

@SpookDog Hey bud, hope you're feeling better. I did wonder what had happened to you.

Good to hear you've sorted the rear suspension

Try Salisbury Wheel Builders over in Ringwood: https://salisbury-wheel-builders.ueniweb.com/ 01202 081994

[SpookDog]

Still going well mechanically, just looks like a dog

Cheers for the link bud!…

I really need some hubs if anyone knows of any for sale? Back one is way more urgent than the front!

Only issue is it seems to be running a bit hot. I removed the plastic cover from the radiator and it was an improvement, but not great. I’m wondering if being stood up and hardly ridden since last winter has let the radiator clog up? The radiator was well hot when I checked it. Like it’s not shedding the heat. The ‘fins’ look clear, so I’m wondering if it’s an internal obstruction?

[Calum]

It's looking smart with that pipe on it.

The usual suspect for running hot can be the thermostat.

I must admit, DTs always seem to run hot, I tried all sorts (including twin radiators) and the solution for me was to remove the thermostat.

This is really not ideal as the thermostat is an integral part of the engines cooling, it applies pressure to the cylinder head and prevents hot spots from forming.

But I found the DT was just running too hot and would benefit from a lower temperature thermostat (especially if tuned).

But as they say Mr Yamaha know what they're doing and it's a tried and tested machine

[HOTSHOT III]

@SpookDog Thermostat definitely worth a look as @Calum said. Also the rad could have a blockage, it's not unheard of. I've had some success on cars blocking off the ends, filling them half full of Gunk/Jizer and giving them a good shake before rinsing with a garden hose. I like doing this on the outside of radiators as well, get loads of degreaser in the fins and it's amazing how much crap you can hose out. And I'd still take a look at the fins particulalrly on the back of the rad as they're prone to being folded over by people doing plug changes etc. which can considerably reduce flow through them. It can be quite relaxing to take a thin screwdriver and straighten every single fin and this can make DTRs run a bit cooler.

Also have you taken a look at the waterpump? Being a plastic impeller moulded onto a steel shaft it's possible this could have separated meaning it's no longer making the coolant circulate. TBH I've never known this to happen on the DTR but worth checking on a high mileage bike.

@OllieDTR Has Liam got any wheels for sale? Would be a fairly local solution...

[SpookDog]

Cheers guys!...

I've got a half decent rad i bought a while back. alot better than the used stuff you normally see on fleabay. i'm gonna flush that and leak test it, as well as checking for decent flowrate. Ill order a new thermostat and do them both together...

Has anyone looked at the replacement rads on fleabay? there's a chinese one for £90 and a chek one for £114. i'm leaning towards the chinese one just because the quality of the TIG weld looks to a much better standard.

[Calum]

I've never had any luck with the Chinese ones winner racing. I say that but the ones I bought for my ETX were from them and they actually fit, sort of.

But I have bought numerous previous one to no avail.

[SpookDog]

@Calum

It’s a shame that they’re shite, because I think the radiator is the main problem. If it was the thermostat I’d of thought that it would overheat from the start, but it keeps cool enough for a while depending on how hot it is and how slow I’m going (less air flow over the radiator). The radiator is well hot to the touch!

I’m waiting on a new stat and gasket from PJME and I’m going to flush the radiator that’s on the bike with a hose in the meantime. The fins on the back are better than my other radiator, which is originally pristine in every way apart from the rear fins being the worst I’ve personally seen