So Close!...
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Yeah, the hub drive has failed, it did have a bit of a needle wobble at 50-55 before for a while, as I’ve now remembered! My bad memory is the main reason I document so much info in this thread. I used to rite it down on bits of cardboard (aka my work bench) and pads, but I was always loosing them or forgetting to date them…
I checked the cable was sound then removed the speedo, put a bit of tape on the end of the top inner and checked to see if it was spinning, alas it was just sat there, useless as me
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There’s a tiny pin that holds the brass insert into the gear housing (that the speedo cable screws onto). Has anyone ever taken the worm drive out? I can’t see if it’s a tiny Allen grub screw or a press pin that needs to be drilled out? Anyone help?…
The worm drive has seized on mine and I want to take it out and free it off…
The worm drive (that the cable fits into @ the hub) has seized solid, the ring gear is intact, but the 3 tabbed/pronged ring has had the tabs bent down on it. If I can dismantle the worm gear and get it turning again I can save the unit. It’s just getting out the pin/grub screw thing so I can remove the brass threaded cap (that the speedo cable screws to) and get to the worm drive/shaft… -
@SpookDog It's a hollow roll pin that holds the worm drive into the speedo drive housing. I've repaired a couple of plastic ones, IIRC I drilled a small hole into the housing from the inside enabling me to tap out the pin (I think I might have even made something smaller in diameter than my smallest punch to do this). Then once I got it all apart and freed off I used a split pin to keep it all together on reassembly. Also bought a load of shims the correct ID/OD as the worm drive eats into the plastic as it rotates. And you can get the seal where the unit fits onto the wheel hub from a bearing shop, I think Ashley Bearings in Poole are pretty good. Well worth replacing as they leak sometimes, and you can get ones with a garter spring (better than OEM) meaning you can really pack the unit with grease once it's fixed.
An aluminium one might be more difficult as there's potential for the roll pin to seize into the housing so maybe a bit of heat after you've drilled it?
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Ashley bearings, in parkstone sill going? I wish I’d known that before. Cheers bud…
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This is the pin holding in the brass threaded coupling
You can see it’s possible to drill from the rear but it’s such a small diameter. If I do drill it from the rear I could use what’s left of the pin and drift it in with a micro punch afterwards…
I would rather mend & resurrect the original part just because I’m a mean, stubborn git! Besides these genuine aluminium parts are going for fucking ridiculous prices! Some people have no (or @ least less than me) shame! I’ve seen nearly £120 asked for
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I’m assuming that the brass coupling has a groove in it that the pin ‘bites’ into?…
PS: no input on the stainless steel pipe? I hope I haven’t caused offence! I know that I can be quite abrasive sometimes when I drink the Brew. Please, just don’t take it personally. I’m tetchy with the World in general, not specifically
not on purpose, anyways 
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@SpookDog Yes there's a groove in the brass coupling for the pin to retain it. If you can get the roll pin out intact it would be perfectly in order to re-use it IMO, although it might not fit as tightly as when installed by the factory hence my decision to use a split pin the same size.
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@SpookDog Like this, looks neat enough but it can always be taken apart again if necessary. In hindsight I could've used an M3 CSK screw from the RC car box but that would have meant countersinking the housing to match and being plastic, I wanted to disturb/mutilate it as little as possible
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Wow, so that’s what a clean one looks like?! Cool, when you said it was plastic and you drilled from the inside, I thought something else…
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I don’t know if it shows in the pic’s very well but my locator ring is proper bowed out to a saucer!…
It’s proper curvy. The worm gear has seized solid in the brass fitting and caused the ring drive to stop turning, forcing it against the wheels rotation, which in turn bent up the tabs…
I’m lucky it just pushed the tabs up and didn’t tear them up, or off completely!…
I’m guessing that the 3 prong locator ring should be fla …PS does the locator ring need to be a tight fit onto the ring gear, or does the curclip hold it in place?…
If you’re not sure I guess I’ll just tweak the clip to grip the ring gear. It was well tight when I dismantled it but I assumed it was cause it was so deformed… -
Suss this one out…
I actually cut the whole bit off after I drilled it out and it still wouldn’t come out…
You can see the groove where the pin fitted! It still will not let grip of the brass insert!!
although the insert turns freely!! WTF?!!Have a link to a cheap copy replacement, anyone?
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
I don’t know if it shows in the pic’s very well but my locator ring is proper bowed out to a saucer!…
It’s proper curvy. The worm gear has seized solid in the brass fitting and caused the ring drive to stop turning, forcing it against the wheels rotation, which in turn bent up the tabs…
I’m lucky it just pushed the tabs up and didn’t tear them up, or off completely!…
I’m guessing that the 3 prong locator ring should be fla …PS does the locator ring need to be a tight fit onto the ring gear, or does the curclip hold it in place?…
If you’re not sure I guess I’ll just tweak the clip to grip the ring gear. It was well tight when I dismantled it but I assumed it was cause it was so deformed…@SpookDog IIRC the ring with the 3 tabs is supposed to be flat yes. It also has 2 flats on its ID which correspond with flats on the ring gear and should locate over these so the gear drives it. And there should also be two shims, one underneath the ring gear and one between the 3 tab ring and circlip.
Shame you had to do that to get the pin out but if you're really determined to save the unit I guess you could get someone to build it up with ally weld and re-machine it, whereupon you could decide exactly how you want to retain the brass insert using a nut and bolt or similar, might be a cool project which moves the DTR community forward as those speedo drives are difficult to get hold of secondhand.
There's a guy on the web somewhere called Badfoot Customs who does exactly this kind of work, he's saved smashed MX bike crankcases by welding in extra replacement sections and stuff like that.
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@HOTSHOT-III I follow badfoot customs on Facebook. They do some amazing work.
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I’m gutted as well. It still wouldn’t come out after drilling the pin out with a 1.5, then 2mm drill, so I was using a 3mm bit and it snapped the casing apart. The brass bit still wouldn’t come out so I started trimming back the sharp bits to get at whatever was stopping the brass coming out. Things got out of hand as I got more irate. The brass fitting turns in the casing but will not pull out. I’ve put it in a vice and pulled on the thing with no outward movement. It has to come out cause the worm drive is bent and needs straightening as well as clean & lube…
Some of the XT drives look similar, they use the same speedo I think, as well as a 21in wheel. Still not cheap, but cheaper than the ‘dtr tax’
If anyone has an original part (preferably) or even a known working copy, please let me know
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@SpookDog Sorry this has happened to you bud, we've all been there. Take a look at Yamaha France Parts Lookup, you enter your VIN number and they can usually tell your exact model of bike right down to the colour. In fact as a test, I once keyed in the VIN number of my 1990 UK 3MB I owned in '91, and it showed the crappy UK 12bhp powervalve end cap instead of the pulley and cables. Sometimes more accurate than Fowlers for part numbers:
https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/fr/fr/service-maintenance/parts-catalogue/
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Cheers bud. I think I’ve found a genuine one for £50 but wanted to check out the part number first
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Parlez vous froglish? If I give you my VIN would you do it for me?
