So Close!...
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I don’t know if it shows in the pic’s very well but my locator ring is proper bowed out to a saucer!…
It’s proper curvy. The worm gear has seized solid in the brass fitting and caused the ring drive to stop turning, forcing it against the wheels rotation, which in turn bent up the tabs…
I’m lucky it just pushed the tabs up and didn’t tear them up, or off completely!…
I’m guessing that the 3 prong locator ring should be fla
…PS does the locator ring need to be a tight fit onto the ring gear, or does the curclip hold it in place?…
If you’re not sure I guess I’ll just tweak the clip to grip the ring gear. It was well tight when I dismantled it but I assumed it was cause it was so deformed…wrote on 13 Feb 2023, 08:34 last edited by@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
I don’t know if it shows in the pic’s very well but my locator ring is proper bowed out to a saucer!…
It’s proper curvy. The worm gear has seized solid in the brass fitting and caused the ring drive to stop turning, forcing it against the wheels rotation, which in turn bent up the tabs…
I’m lucky it just pushed the tabs up and didn’t tear them up, or off completely!…
I’m guessing that the 3 prong locator ring should be fla …PS does the locator ring need to be a tight fit onto the ring gear, or does the curclip hold it in place?…
If you’re not sure I guess I’ll just tweak the clip to grip the ring gear. It was well tight when I dismantled it but I assumed it was cause it was so deformed…@SpookDog IIRC the ring with the 3 tabs is supposed to be flat yes. It also has 2 flats on its ID which correspond with flats on the ring gear and should locate over these so the gear drives it. And there should also be two shims, one underneath the ring gear and one between the 3 tab ring and circlip.
Shame you had to do that to get the pin out but if you're really determined to save the unit I guess you could get someone to build it up with ally weld and re-machine it, whereupon you could decide exactly how you want to retain the brass insert using a nut and bolt or similar, might be a cool project which moves the DTR community forward as those speedo drives are difficult to get hold of secondhand.
There's a guy on the web somewhere called Badfoot Customs who does exactly this kind of work, he's saved smashed MX bike crankcases by welding in extra replacement sections and stuff like that.
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
I don’t know if it shows in the pic’s very well but my locator ring is proper bowed out to a saucer!…
It’s proper curvy. The worm gear has seized solid in the brass fitting and caused the ring drive to stop turning, forcing it against the wheels rotation, which in turn bent up the tabs…
I’m lucky it just pushed the tabs up and didn’t tear them up, or off completely!…
I’m guessing that the 3 prong locator ring should be fla …PS does the locator ring need to be a tight fit onto the ring gear, or does the curclip hold it in place?…
If you’re not sure I guess I’ll just tweak the clip to grip the ring gear. It was well tight when I dismantled it but I assumed it was cause it was so deformed…@SpookDog IIRC the ring with the 3 tabs is supposed to be flat yes. It also has 2 flats on its ID which correspond with flats on the ring gear and should locate over these so the gear drives it. And there should also be two shims, one underneath the ring gear and one between the 3 tab ring and circlip.
Shame you had to do that to get the pin out but if you're really determined to save the unit I guess you could get someone to build it up with ally weld and re-machine it, whereupon you could decide exactly how you want to retain the brass insert using a nut and bolt or similar, might be a cool project which moves the DTR community forward as those speedo drives are difficult to get hold of secondhand.
There's a guy on the web somewhere called Badfoot Customs who does exactly this kind of work, he's saved smashed MX bike crankcases by welding in extra replacement sections and stuff like that.
wrote on 13 Feb 2023, 08:37 last edited by@HOTSHOT-III I follow badfoot customs on Facebook. They do some amazing work.
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
I don’t know if it shows in the pic’s very well but my locator ring is proper bowed out to a saucer!…
It’s proper curvy. The worm gear has seized solid in the brass fitting and caused the ring drive to stop turning, forcing it against the wheels rotation, which in turn bent up the tabs…
I’m lucky it just pushed the tabs up and didn’t tear them up, or off completely!…
I’m guessing that the 3 prong locator ring should be fla …PS does the locator ring need to be a tight fit onto the ring gear, or does the curclip hold it in place?…
If you’re not sure I guess I’ll just tweak the clip to grip the ring gear. It was well tight when I dismantled it but I assumed it was cause it was so deformed…@SpookDog IIRC the ring with the 3 tabs is supposed to be flat yes. It also has 2 flats on its ID which correspond with flats on the ring gear and should locate over these so the gear drives it. And there should also be two shims, one underneath the ring gear and one between the 3 tab ring and circlip.
Shame you had to do that to get the pin out but if you're really determined to save the unit I guess you could get someone to build it up with ally weld and re-machine it, whereupon you could decide exactly how you want to retain the brass insert using a nut and bolt or similar, might be a cool project which moves the DTR community forward as those speedo drives are difficult to get hold of secondhand.
There's a guy on the web somewhere called Badfoot Customs who does exactly this kind of work, he's saved smashed MX bike crankcases by welding in extra replacement sections and stuff like that.
wrote on 13 Feb 2023, 15:56 last edited by SpookDogI’m gutted as well. It still wouldn’t come out after drilling the pin out with a 1.5, then 2mm drill, so I was using a 3mm bit and it snapped the casing apart. The brass bit still wouldn’t come out so I started trimming back the sharp bits to get at whatever was stopping the brass coming out. Things got out of hand as I got more irate. The brass fitting turns in the casing but will not pull out. I’ve put it in a vice and pulled on the thing with no outward movement. It has to come out cause the worm drive is bent and needs straightening as well as clean & lube…
Some of the XT drives look similar, they use the same speedo I think, as well as a 21in wheel. Still not cheap, but cheaper than the ‘dtr tax’
If anyone has an original part (preferably) or even a known working copy, please let me know
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I’m gutted as well. It still wouldn’t come out after drilling the pin out with a 1.5, then 2mm drill, so I was using a 3mm bit and it snapped the casing apart. The brass bit still wouldn’t come out so I started trimming back the sharp bits to get at whatever was stopping the brass coming out. Things got out of hand as I got more irate. The brass fitting turns in the casing but will not pull out. I’ve put it in a vice and pulled on the thing with no outward movement. It has to come out cause the worm drive is bent and needs straightening as well as clean & lube…
Some of the XT drives look similar, they use the same speedo I think, as well as a 21in wheel. Still not cheap, but cheaper than the ‘dtr tax’
If anyone has an original part (preferably) or even a known working copy, please let me know
…wrote on 13 Feb 2023, 18:32 last edited byDoes anyone know what or how to find the part number for the drive unit?…
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I’m gutted as well. It still wouldn’t come out after drilling the pin out with a 1.5, then 2mm drill, so I was using a 3mm bit and it snapped the casing apart. The brass bit still wouldn’t come out so I started trimming back the sharp bits to get at whatever was stopping the brass coming out. Things got out of hand as I got more irate. The brass fitting turns in the casing but will not pull out. I’ve put it in a vice and pulled on the thing with no outward movement. It has to come out cause the worm drive is bent and needs straightening as well as clean & lube…
Some of the XT drives look similar, they use the same speedo I think, as well as a 21in wheel. Still not cheap, but cheaper than the ‘dtr tax’
If anyone has an original part (preferably) or even a known working copy, please let me know
…wrote on 13 Feb 2023, 20:01 last edited by@SpookDog Sorry this has happened to you bud, we've all been there. Take a look at Yamaha France Parts Lookup, you enter your VIN number and they can usually tell your exact model of bike right down to the colour. In fact as a test, I once keyed in the VIN number of my 1990 UK 3MB I owned in '91, and it showed the crappy UK 12bhp powervalve end cap instead of the pulley and cables. Sometimes more accurate than Fowlers for part numbers:
https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/fr/fr/service-maintenance/parts-catalogue/
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@SpookDog Sorry this has happened to you bud, we've all been there. Take a look at Yamaha France Parts Lookup, you enter your VIN number and they can usually tell your exact model of bike right down to the colour. In fact as a test, I once keyed in the VIN number of my 1990 UK 3MB I owned in '91, and it showed the crappy UK 12bhp powervalve end cap instead of the pulley and cables. Sometimes more accurate than Fowlers for part numbers:
https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/fr/fr/service-maintenance/parts-catalogue/
wrote on 14 Feb 2023, 16:43 last edited byCheers bud. I think I’ve found a genuine one for £50 but wanted to check out the part number first
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@SpookDog Sorry this has happened to you bud, we've all been there. Take a look at Yamaha France Parts Lookup, you enter your VIN number and they can usually tell your exact model of bike right down to the colour. In fact as a test, I once keyed in the VIN number of my 1990 UK 3MB I owned in '91, and it showed the crappy UK 12bhp powervalve end cap instead of the pulley and cables. Sometimes more accurate than Fowlers for part numbers:
https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/fr/fr/service-maintenance/parts-catalogue/
wrote on 14 Feb 2023, 19:03 last edited byParlez vous froglish? If I give you my VIN would you do it for me?
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Parlez vous froglish? If I give you my VIN would you do it for me?
wrote on 15 Feb 2023, 07:56 last edited by@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Parlez vous froglish? If I give you my VIN would you do it for me?
OK what's your VIN number?
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Parlez vous froglish? If I give you my VIN would you do it for me?
OK what's your VIN number?
wrote on 15 Feb 2023, 20:28 last edited by SpookDog -
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wrote on 15 Feb 2023, 23:17 last edited by
@markus-w @SpookDog It should be a round slide carb bike with that VIN number. I had a look on Yamaha France but it didn't recognise the VIN so just looked it up as an '88 DT125R; the original part number is 1W2-25190-00 and CMSNL/Fowlers both say it's superseded to 3XP-25190-00. The 3XP looks like the plastic version on CMSNL, in stock at Fowlers, £74.40:
https://www.cmsnl.com/products/gear-unit-assy_3xp2519000/
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4055682/dt125r-3bn1-1988-999-c/front-wheel
Maybe try Motorcycle Part Finder UK, they contact over 200 breakers:
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wrote on 16 Feb 2023, 00:36 last edited by
It’s not a righteous numbers matching bike, it was mongrel from the time I got it. It had a late model flatslide on it when I got it…
The X’s are the weird Yamaha star things, not part of. It worries me that it wasn’t recognised though…
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It’s not a righteous numbers matching bike, it was mongrel from the time I got it. It had a late model flatslide on it when I got it…
The X’s are the weird Yamaha star things, not part of. It worries me that it wasn’t recognised though…
wrote on 17 Feb 2023, 15:08 last edited by SpookDogIn the daylight it looks like
3DB - 001369
With a big gap between the 3DB and the 00It says there are 3 options: black, white & solid enduro blue. I’d love to know what original colour my bike was registered as, can anyone help me find out?…
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@markus-w @SpookDog It should be a round slide carb bike with that VIN number. I had a look on Yamaha France but it didn't recognise the VIN so just looked it up as an '88 DT125R; the original part number is 1W2-25190-00 and CMSNL/Fowlers both say it's superseded to 3XP-25190-00. The 3XP looks like the plastic version on CMSNL, in stock at Fowlers, £74.40:
https://www.cmsnl.com/products/gear-unit-assy_3xp2519000/
https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/4055682/dt125r-3bn1-1988-999-c/front-wheel
Maybe try Motorcycle Part Finder UK, they contact over 200 breakers:
wrote on 17 Feb 2023, 19:20 last edited by -
wrote on 17 Feb 2023, 19:59 last edited by HOTSHOT III
@SpookDog That's for an SR125 which has I think an 17" front wheel, and the spindle diameter is likely to be different as well so it definitely wouldn't fit a DTR.
https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_sr125 97.htm
Have you tried Motorcycle PartFinderUK from my previous post?
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@SpookDog That's for an SR125 which has I think an 17" front wheel, and the spindle diameter is likely to be different as well so it definitely wouldn't fit a DTR.
https://www.motorcyclespecs.co.za/model/yamaha/yamaha_sr125 97.htm
Have you tried Motorcycle PartFinderUK from my previous post?
wrote on 18 Feb 2023, 13:32 last edited by SpookDogSame diameter 15mm. I was more interested in the 3 prong internals. I could use my gear wheel if not my worm drive. There are some used ones going for £11 I’m going to see if I can find measurements for one. The 3 prefix letters are different but the middle numbers (25190) are the same, it has an 01 on the end instead of a 00. I’m hoping that an upgrade to where the cable fits in, an oring maybe
I live in hope!…Gonna try part finder later today but don’t think it’ll be cheap…
Edit Got one coming for £8 it’s worth laying eyes on for that price…
There are mid 80’s XT ones that look the same, 3 prong and seal ect. Some of the XT’s used the same speedo/rev counter as the dtr I think…
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Same diameter 15mm. I was more interested in the 3 prong internals. I could use my gear wheel if not my worm drive. There are some used ones going for £11 I’m going to see if I can find measurements for one. The 3 prefix letters are different but the middle numbers (25190) are the same, it has an 01 on the end instead of a 00. I’m hoping that an upgrade to where the cable fits in, an oring maybe
I live in hope!…Gonna try part finder later today but don’t think it’ll be cheap…
Edit Got one coming for £8 it’s worth laying eyes on for that price…
There are mid 80’s XT ones that look the same, 3 prong and seal ect. Some of the XT’s used the same speedo/rev counter as the dtr I think…
wrote on 18 Feb 2023, 16:50 last edited byWould you believe it that my top end has developed a rattle that is only getting worse!
It’s my fault for using second hand top ends before, because I couldn’t cure the head gasket blowing problem.
Now I’ve solved it I want to get my original 3MB barrel rebored with piston, ect. I’ve got another bottom end I want to put new everything in as well though, while I’m at it.I might put the Tzr on the road first though. So I’ve got something to run while I get the frame and casings, ect powder coated…
Juggling decisions on a shoestring budget, you kinda got to get it right before you do it
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Would you believe it that my top end has developed a rattle that is only getting worse!
It’s my fault for using second hand top ends before, because I couldn’t cure the head gasket blowing problem.
Now I’ve solved it I want to get my original 3MB barrel rebored with piston, ect. I’ve got another bottom end I want to put new everything in as well though, while I’m at it.I might put the Tzr on the road first though. So I’ve got something to run while I get the frame and casings, ect powder coated…
Juggling decisions on a shoestring budget, you kinda got to get it right before you do it
wrote on 18 Feb 2023, 18:13 last edited by SpookDogCan you believe that this worm gear will still not just pull out?!
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Even after beating the brass cap/insert up & out the worm gear shaft won’t come out
I had to cut down even further because the hard steel of the worm gear had ‘burred’ over a lip on the ally that held it in!…
And finally! Freedom! And it’s not bent!…
My~Fucking~Life!…
SAPFM!….@HOTSHOT-III
Is there supposed to be a washer on the top @ bottom of the worm drive?
Mine only has one on the top? I’m guessing that the spin makes the drive ride up against the top washer, so it doesn’t need one on the bottom?…
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Can you believe that this worm gear will still not just pull out?!
…Even after beating the brass cap/insert up & out the worm gear shaft won’t come out
I had to cut down even further because the hard steel of the worm gear had ‘burred’ over a lip on the ally that held it in!…
And finally! Freedom! And it’s not bent!…
My~Fucking~Life!…
SAPFM!….@HOTSHOT-III
Is there supposed to be a washer on the top @ bottom of the worm drive?
Mine only has one on the top? I’m guessing that the spin makes the drive ride up against the top washer, so it doesn’t need one on the bottom?…
wrote on 19 Feb 2023, 11:13 last edited by@SpookDog I noticed the washer was always on the top of the worm drive when repairing the plastic ones; odd because as the worm gear rotates with the wheel, IMO it pushes the worm drive downwards. As I said I bought a load of shims the correct ID/OD for pence from China and just shimmed mine at top and bottom when reassembling.
I wouldn't go for the SR125 NOS one if I were you; if the spindle is the same diameter all well and good on that score but the internal gear ratio will be completely different for a 17" wheel meaning the speedo won't read correctly. And paying £55 to try and swap your internals into it, you might as well pay the extra £19 for a brand new 3XP one from Fowlers.
Expensive for a speedo drive though yes, I'd be getting on to PartFinder and Googling breakers all over the UK. Also consider getting on FaceBook as there's around 15-20 dedicated DTR pages full of helpful people, some of whom buy and sell DTR parts all the time. This forum is excellent but bottom line there's more people on FB, I'm not a huge fan of social media but you have to make it work for you.
IIRC Yamaha use the same numbering system for all their parts, the actual 5-digit number is the same for a particular item (a spoke set for instance) and the 3-digit prefix denotes the model (3XP = DT200WR I think, so I guess they adapted that bike's USD forks so th same shape speedo drive could be used). 00, 01, 02 etc. endings are where a part has been superseded with minor changes.
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@SpookDog I noticed the washer was always on the top of the worm drive when repairing the plastic ones; odd because as the worm gear rotates with the wheel, IMO it pushes the worm drive downwards. As I said I bought a load of shims the correct ID/OD for pence from China and just shimmed mine at top and bottom when reassembling.
I wouldn't go for the SR125 NOS one if I were you; if the spindle is the same diameter all well and good on that score but the internal gear ratio will be completely different for a 17" wheel meaning the speedo won't read correctly. And paying £55 to try and swap your internals into it, you might as well pay the extra £19 for a brand new 3XP one from Fowlers.
Expensive for a speedo drive though yes, I'd be getting on to PartFinder and Googling breakers all over the UK. Also consider getting on FaceBook as there's around 15-20 dedicated DTR pages full of helpful people, some of whom buy and sell DTR parts all the time. This forum is excellent but bottom line there's more people on FB, I'm not a huge fan of social media but you have to make it work for you.
IIRC Yamaha use the same numbering system for all their parts, the actual 5-digit number is the same for a particular item (a spoke set for instance) and the 3-digit prefix denotes the model (3XP = DT200WR I think, so I guess they adapted that bike's USD forks so th same shape speedo drive could be used). 00, 01, 02 etc. endings are where a part has been superseded with minor changes.
wrote on 19 Feb 2023, 13:16 last edited by SpookDogI’ve ordered a second hand one for £8.00 I don’t think I can go wrong at that price…
Damn it I’ve got water in the carb again! I think it’s cause my tank is very rusty inside which massively increases surface area, add that to a cheap cap that lets air in and it gets a lot of condisation in the tank. It’s the only reason I can think of anyway. Just another upgrade job to do when I have the money and off road time to do it. Or stop running it onto reserve!
Looks like I’m going to have to get the Tzr running, which I’m going to have to half ass to start cause I don’t have the money to get the 4Fu steel liner put in @ PJME…Happy daze to all you smokers out there!
I hope you have better luck with them than I does…