So Close!...
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Does anyone else have dodgy speed cameras near you? I have 2 villages near me that have ‘flashy signs’ that say I’m doing 31-32mph, when my speedo says I’m doing 40! If I carry on down the road for a few hundred metres at the same speed I get a speeding ticket for doing 37mph! WTF?
Which speed camera do you trust? The one you can see, or the one that bills you?!…Not only that (where I live) they’ve started putting mobile speed traps just between leaving the 30mph zone and the point 100-150metres down the road where it changes to 40mph! (This is 3-400metresfrom an existing camera!!!) Just where you’d speed up. It’s a money trap! So fukin wrong. I’m not pissed cause I got my third ticket for doing 36mph. I’m pissed off because it’s so obviously a money maker they’ve done it twice in the last week!
If it was an accident spot or a speeding problem I’d at least try to understand, but it so isn’t!…Is this happening everywhere else in the uk?…
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@SpookDog Sorry this has happened to you buddy, Dorset Police are notorious for mobile greed cameras and have been in the national press due to some of their locations actually putting the operators' lives at risk (would you want to spend an 8 hour shift sat in a van on a busy flyover?).
There's been a lot of activity on the Badbury Rings road lately, 2 short signposts installed under the trees and currently covered with bin bags. Lots of people speculating whether they're new cameras, speed limit repeater signs (possibly reducing the limit between Tarrant Keyneston and Kingston Lacy) etc.
Also Tarrant Keyneston is where that person put a sign outside their house saying "your speeding is your intention to murder" or some such twaddle. Certain types of people might be tempted to floor it past his house repeatedly, meaning he could end up being indirectly responsible for the death of one of his neighbours. It's not there any more, hope the police made him take it down. Civilian Gestapo can be very immature, the man obviously has a need to give everyone around him a state-sponsored kick in the bollocks.
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I was wondering what the two posts were for. There’s already a box on a post that I’ve no clue about, what’s another two?!
I got my work stand today, it works perfectly for my needs, both wheels off the ground, cheers geezer!
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My front end still has a wobble/weeve at between 20-30mph. It’s very noticeable and only been happening since I adjusted the headstock bearings to eliminate the ‘click’ (dropping off curbs-forks free-falling, extending) that I always thought was caused by the old forks and worn bottom bushes. The click has gone but the weave has started. It feels like it used to when I had a badly notched top bearing/race. I guess I’m gonna have to strip it down again and check the top tapered bearing and race that I replaced the old worn one with…
Oh well 🥴 -
I actually think I’m gonna go back to round bearings on the top race. The only reason I changed to tapered was because the original was shot. I think the round ones might be easier to adjust to a finer degree than the tapered ones…
If anyone has any kind of definitive opinion, please feel free to chime in … -
Turns out it’s the bottom bearing that’s notchy. I don’t have a seal under the bearings. Anyone know the dimensions?
As it turns out I ordered a new bearing a couple days ago but didn’t know the size of the bottom seal!…Trials and tribulations! (whatever they are!)…
EDIT Don’t matter, 35 x 55 taper bearing seal…
I never realised how impossible it is to set the headstock bearings when there is weight on them. With the bike off the ground and the forks removed I can really tell how much difference just tightening the top nut does to compress the bearings! I think I’ve got them set ok now, at least till the new bottom taper bearings and seal turns up!…
Wish me luck, please!… -
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I’m going to be doing electrolysis on my petrol tank in the very near future. Just wondering if anyone has done it before? Should be fun
wondering if I can put POR15 straight onto the metal after, or whether it’ll still need to be ‘etched’I’m guessing that surface area will be king when it comes to the sacrificial anode? Any ideas what to use? Those old steel combs?…
A length of old shock spring?
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I’m gonna give this electrolysis thing a good go on other parts as well. Old nuts & bolts, engine mount plates, gear lever, clutch cable mount, ect. Then try blueing them myself after to rust proof them. I don’t know why I’ve never though of it before. I did blueing at school but can’t remember if you need special oil…
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Cue the tumbleweeds!…
@ 38200 miles and still no more reoccurring head~gasket aches!
I kinda forgot all about that particular nightmare…Really need to re~evaluate the ‘to do list’
Got to find a local tig welder to do the stator side casing. Check the run~out/true of the new crank and start thinking about building the new engine for the Dtr…Also put the Tzr top end on, sand & primer the rusty spots, get some tyres and MoT the thing, so I have a road usable bike when I put paint on the Dtr…
& so much other shit that has been lost track of! …
(I should really learn to write this shit down on paper, not keep wasting Callum’s cloud or whatever it is. I just end up loosing the damn data tho!)
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Wow, this place is less active than my sex life!
…Ahem! I’m @39250 miles without being stranded at roadside! Was @14500’ish when I first got the basket case Considering all the problems I’ve had to learn through, it’s not bad…
Desperately want to build the new engine but have been busy doing diy for my sis’s gaff (Almost finished building the newish gates) Managed to squeeze in preparing the new cases for welding, removing bearings and studs. Apart from the clutch side barrel studs, which are the fuxing worst! Soon as the gates are hung I can start again on the motobicyclette
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Yeah mental isn't it. Really seems to have gone quiet as of late. That's no dramas anyway.
Wow, you're mental. In 15 years I haven't done anywhere near as much mileage as that. I just don't get it. I am sure it's bottom end rebuild time at 30k miles lol. So you don't half rinse the mileage.
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@SpookDog I had trouble with the clutch side cylinder studs, I think it's because the gap between the stud and locating dowel provides extra space/surface area for corrosion to do its dirty work. Lots of people attack the dowels with Mole grips which usually just makes a sharp-edged mess. In the end I got a small piece of 6mm aluminium, drilled a hole in it the same size as the dowel OD, then made a hacksaw cut from the outside edge to the hole so it could snugly fit over the dowel. Then you can clamp Mole grips on the aluminium so it grips the dowel right around its circumference (a bit of valve grinding paste helps here) without deforming it and you can rotate it to get it out. Still needed plenty of PlusGas though and I bought new studs and dowels.
After that I attacked the space between the dowel hole and stud with a wire brush to get rid of all the scabbiness and heated up the case so the PlusGas fizzed and bubbled and eventually the studs moved. Very time-consuming but you only get one chance with these!
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@SpookDog
I wouldn’t go with POR-15 for the tank sealer, it’s only a single part product and doesn’t hold that long even with the best prep.
I went with Caswell it’s a USA brand but they stock it here in the UK. It’s 2 part epoxy resin and good for all ethanol so will work with the E10 if you need to put it in.It also seals pin holes in the tank very well,
I filled my tank with pure white vinegar from the shops that I got for 25p to the brim and left it for 2 days, give it a shake every now and then.
After that rinse with hose pipe to clean out then let dry. Get some 99% pure acetone or best you can get and poor that in around 5L and give it a good shake then drain and leave in sun to dry. Then you are ready for mixing up and pouring in, got to be bone dry before you add the stuff. I’ve got some pictures of my tank I’ll add -
Do you have the tools to check the runoff of a crank? (Or know a local workshop?)…
I really need to check my ‘new’ crank before I commit to building with it. I’d love to know how you go about checking conrod deflection as well. I really want to build this next motor as properly as I can
…I’ve never really been able to go over 6-7k rpm with my existing motor, not with any kind of confidence 🥴 …
I’m guessing that if you can build your own wheels then you have some knowledge and confidence. Did you sell the dtr wheels, by the by?…
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@SpookDog I do take an interest in building and truing cranks but all the equipment needed is a serious investment so I've never got around to trying it unfortunately.
Locally I'd try G Arnold Motorcycles in Poole on 01202 747405; he does rebores and people speak very highly of him so I'd excpect him to at least have some V blocks and a good quality DTI. Or just send it off to PJME or Grampian Motors for a full rebuild.
What makes you hesitant about going over 6-7k rpm, is there more vibration than you'd expect?
Wheelset is still for sale on eBay
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My conrod is bent/deflected to one side. Result of having a wrong pilot jet causing missffires and knocking for to many thousand miles (& head gaskets) to recall. It resulted in the flywheel side of the piston having 1mm of play between gudgeon/wrist~pin and the piston. A little bit slappy!!
…The crank I bought looks good and was an absolute bargain @ £30 or so, but I’m very paranoid about getting the next motor right. It looks like a new conrod was fitted very recently…
Did Arnold’s used to be a scooter place??…
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