Hydraulic clutch kit
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Anyone found a set that fits there DTr there usually 130mm full length with thread off 35mm the actual middle screw bit is usually 20 mml short does anyone know where i can get a slightly longer universal hydraulic clutch kit ..i have modified a beta 125 sump case that looks good so i can tell ya they do work with a slight adjustment and so does yzf acibis gear shift
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Anyone found a set that fits there DTr there usually 130mm full length with thread off 35mm the actual middle screw bit is usually 20 mml short does anyone know where i can get a slightly longer universal hydraulic clutch kit ..i have modified a beta 125 sump case that looks good so i can tell ya they do work with a slight adjustment and so does yzf acibis gear shift
I don’t think anyone really bothered cause the standard clutch is so light on the Dtr. I did consider it for a while when I first had uprated springs on but didn’t like the Chinese stuff I found…
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Anyone found a set that fits there DTr there usually 130mm full length with thread off 35mm the actual middle screw bit is usually 20 mml short does anyone know where i can get a slightly longer universal hydraulic clutch kit ..i have modified a beta 125 sump case that looks good so i can tell ya they do work with a slight adjustment and so does yzf acibis gear shift
@primal-carnage Don't bother. Spend the same money on a genuine Yamaha clutch cable from Fowlers and get a £4.99 cable oiler from Yambits for striking cobra responsiveness! Watching the spray lube come out the other end of the cable once a week is strangely satisfying, and you'll be amazed how much crap flows out.
All the hydraulic clutch kits I've seen have a short length of cable anyway so it's just more to go wrong, and genuine Yamaha cables are much better quality than any LBS pattern stuff. A lot of people who race big sportsbikes junk the hydraulic clutch and fit a cable conversion as part of race prep as they consider a cable to offer better feel.
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I suffer massively from wrist fatigue from even just 20 minutes of riding. I used to get it really bad when I was a teenager, and now I don't ride so often it happens in really short journeys.
My answer to that, I don't bother shifting up with the clutch, problem solved.
For me, it's about managing how often I use the clutch and just limiting it. But I would invest in Hydraulic clutch for my DT due to the stiffer springs used in it and my personal injuries. The hydraulic clutch on my RS is lovely, again running stiffer springs due to the bump in power.
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I suffer massively from wrist fatigue from even just 20 minutes of riding. I used to get it really bad when I was a teenager, and now I don't ride so often it happens in really short journeys.
My answer to that, I don't bother shifting up with the clutch, problem solved.
For me, it's about managing how often I use the clutch and just limiting it. But I would invest in Hydraulic clutch for my DT due to the stiffer springs used in it and my personal injuries. The hydraulic clutch on my RS is lovely, again running stiffer springs due to the bump in power.
I get really bad hand & finger cramps sometimes. It’s like my hand is trying to say hello to Spock!
Thing that really helped me was adjusting the dogleg levers back towards the grip, so I wasn’t having to overreach for the levers. I couldn’t afford adjustables at the time so I put a CM of fuel pipe between the lever and the perch/mount… -
@primal-carnage Don't bother. Spend the same money on a genuine Yamaha clutch cable from Fowlers and get a £4.99 cable oiler from Yambits for striking cobra responsiveness! Watching the spray lube come out the other end of the cable once a week is strangely satisfying, and you'll be amazed how much crap flows out.
All the hydraulic clutch kits I've seen have a short length of cable anyway so it's just more to go wrong, and genuine Yamaha cables are much better quality than any LBS pattern stuff. A lot of people who race big sportsbikes junk the hydraulic clutch and fit a cable conversion as part of race prep as they consider a cable to offer better feel.
@HOTSHOT-III i have decided to stick with cables im atm looking for blue leavers to go on my 2000 dt 125r i have found some on ebay without the full bracket just the leavers with DT in blue can ou recommend a set of leavers in blue i can replace these silver things with that will defo fit the bolt that goes through
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@HOTSHOT-III i have decided to stick with cables im atm looking for blue leavers to go on my 2000 dt 125r i have found some on ebay without the full bracket just the leavers with DT in blue can ou recommend a set of leavers in blue i can replace these silver things with that will defo fit the bolt that goes through
@primal-carnage Never used anything but the OEM looking silver levers to be honest. Keeping cables clean and well lubed will make the biggest difference. It's a messy job so wrap a rag around the oiler and another one round the other end of the cable but well worth it; even a brand new un-lubed OEM clutch cable is slightly stiff and feels like the clutch lever can't quite keep up with your fingers as you release it. And a cable which has been lubed will last over twice as long.
https://www.dirtbikexpress.co.uk/search.php?search=cable+oiler
