Source coil burns all the time, Dt125x 2006
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Hello, i have a Yamaha dt125x 2006 that i bought about 5 months ago. It didn't have any spark when i bought it, thought it was a simple problem. I trouble shooted and found out that the source coil was shorted. I wanted to save some money and i didn't find a new one so i decided to rewind it. It worked for about 2 km and then it burned. But i tried to reewind it a couple more times but the same thing happend again. I tried changing the cdi but it didn't make any diffrence. As a last effort i tried to rewind it with 0.2 mm wire instead of 0.1mm and it worked for about 4 km so a little improvment, but then it burned. I can't get my head around it ! The electrical system looks completly stock aside from other indicators and the unrestrictor wire grounded.
Does anyone know what the problem is or should i try to change to some sort of race ignition?
// Harry -
If the coil was shorted, what caused it? You need to address the problem, not the symptom.
I didn’t think the electric start stators had separate coils?… -
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@SpookDog i used wire that is made for this. But it shouldn't get so hot that it burns of, but it does. I wonder if anyone else has the same problem. And i cant find anything that is wrong. Could a faulty ignition coil draw excess current and burn it?
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You’ve probably got loom wires melted and fused/touching from the initial fault. Check your wiring from stator to CDI
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@SpookDog I've the one with a lot of small ones and one larger. I looked a bit but i can't finde anything that is shorted. I checked the ignition coil and the primary is 1.3 ohms, it should be 2.4 according to the manual. Could that be the problem?
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It says "0.23 ±" so i asumed they meant 2.3 ohms. Either way the ignition coil is wrong?
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Something is wrong. There should be more resistance. It taking a short route I’d imagine. I’m not a electrickery expert at all! But it seems right to my thinking…
I’d get a new stator bud. Whatever caused the first short hasn’t been addressed…
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Far as I know the wire has to be the proper diameter and the proper length wrapped to the coil. It absolutely has to have clear plastic insulation to stop it shorting to the next windings above and below…
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Edit: sorry, it’s ‘enamelled’ insulated wire
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Don’t know about ampage but the resistance should be in spec.
There’s no sign of burning on the block connectors or wire from the stator to the CDI/loom?PS: is the insulation that goes around the iron core still good? The stuff that separates the iron core from the windings? Also are you insulating with varnish after winding?
Again! Check the 2 wires that run from the ignition source coil to the CDI/loom. There has to be a short somewhere to burn out the coil.
I had my lighting coil burnt out on my bike when I got it. The regulator-rectifier connector plug was melted…
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The ignition on these is 'Capacitor Discharge Ignition'/'CDI', they charge a capacitor from the stator up to a fairly high voltage, then when triggered by the seperate trigger coil, dump it into the primary winding of a fairly low resistance ignition coil. The generator/stator coil for charging the capacitor, shouldn't burn out from a faulty/low primary winding resistance ignition coil as it doesn't directly feed it. There's a possibility the internal capacitor is faulty in which case that's usually a new CDI needed, or as the post above suggests, it could be a wiring problem/short circuit to earth in the wiring from that generator source coil to the CDI unit.
