Engine Yamaha E117E
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What year is your bike you want to fit it to?
What CDI do you have? Are you running three wire of five wire servo.
As far as I know, all cranks for non-electric models are the same and will be dirt cheap. Everything from the clutch side is usable but if you're not running electric start then you'll need the kickstarter, idle gear and thrust washers plus circlip.
Then you need a stator for the non-electric engine and the flywheel. Both of which should be plenty available.
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My frame is Yamaha dt125r SM but I think it's imported from Spain. Yamaha Spain on frame labels
I haven't bought the CDI, loom and stator yet. My crankshaft is for an electric starter model, it was the one that came with the engine and was only rebuild. I read on Google that stator 4FU-02 works.
I even found this stator on the China website. But the rest I can't find anything
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It all depends on what your plans are. If you're building from scratch and you have nothing but the engine, and the rest of the parts are readily available, then just build the bike with the right bits.
Either way, that engine you have is pretty much there, bare stator, crank and fly. The rest can be retrofitted.
If you just have a rolling chassis and you don't mind having a bit of a mongrel then fit the later parts (loom/CDI).
If you want it to be original Loom/CDI, then swap the crank/stator/flywheel over. Grab a kick starter, idle gear and lever.
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Yeah, if you want originality, then try and source an engine that's correct for the period of bike you're trying to build.
Those crank cases and internals can be used, but you'll need to swap out a few parts and the engine numbers won't match the year for your build. Doesn't bother me with that sort of thing but your mileage may vary.
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I found this
https://webshop.hpi.be/product/210k072/ -
@tfsv8 yeah? What are you expecting to do with that? That is not appropriate for your machine.
I have listed your available simplest options.
Build a later aged machine
Retrofit an older crankBoth can be done there are plenty of parts on the net.
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Fix it with the best condition/price OEM parts (DT,TZR,TDR) you can find without keeping originality, keep detailed notes of everything. Release the b@st@rd bike it can be and you like.
Have a collection of every Yamaha workshop/parts manual of every bike you took parts and even from the bikes you copied something.Build a labyrinth of knowledge for the DT and a lot others,chaos theory is your guide. It's Yamaha OEM after all but from 3 bikes!!! (Did it to mine).Keep it original OEM with model specific parts and have the Yamaha workshop/parts manual as your guide. Stay safe and maybe hard find parts and expensive.
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Hi guys sorry to jump on your post!
I’m looking at a set of engines cases from a good friend and member on here they are electric start engine, I just wanted to know if the engine cases are the same and if I could use my 1996 bits on it? Like stator etc
Thank you! -
As long as you don’t use an e start crank you should be good. As far as I know the only difference to the e start casing is it has the hole milled out for the starter.
The e start engine uses a different crank and stator casing made of ally, not plastic…Someone else probably knows more…
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Thank you both!
Calum can I install a tachometer for the rpm in the electric start cases?
I’ve got all the parts off my old 1996 kickstart model just cases are a mess so getting a nice set off @HOTSHOT-III tomorrow so just wanted to know if my old stator and tacho can be install
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@OllieDTR As far as I can see the machining for the tacho gears is there, they've just installed one of those end cap seals where the tacho drive/cable junction normally goes during manufacture, have a look tomorrow:
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@HOTSHOT-III A bit off topic but regarding end cap seals, the oil pump has one on the underside of the casing (i.e opposite the pulley). Just remembered when I reconditioned mine I bought some from Simply Bearings the correct OD and they did the job so it was good to replace that along with all the seals you get in the Yambits kit. IIRC they're 5mm deep, OEM is 6mm but it wasn't an issue.