Jetting the carb
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Well, the Mito engine is highly strung. The Mito runs rings around the DTR, but as a result they're a lot more fragile.
I had the same thing with my ETX, absolutely battered bike, but it's in such a low state of tune that the engine was crisp, almost criminal to rebuild it.
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@calum @hotshot-iii okay a lott happened in the meantime. Firstly i fixed the servo cables and after cleaning procedure it aligned perfectly with the hole. Looked in the exhaust port and was correct. Removed the spacer but kept the carbon reeds. Still runs like crap en servo moved weirdly, not correct in my opinion. That aside, still stutters right before powerband. With as well the 210 and 17.5 jetting and 240 and 27.5(French setup )but with the higher jets i had a lot better throttle response and idling. With the richer setup i tried it to pin the pv on the open position to see what it does when i hit the powerband. And finally it hits
but only in first year tho :s the other gears is starts stuttering again.
Checked my deristrictrion and everything was like its supposed to. So yeah im out of ideas now haha, i run a br9es also like im supposed to. Checked for air leaks, no leaks present. Cleaned air filter and oiled it correctly. Also of i compared the original mikuni jet 210 with the new 240(also a real mikuni) the hole on the 210 was bigger?? -
So I don't align the powervalve with the hole (partly because my exhaust/valve have been ported so it probably isn't right anyway. You did right by aligning flush with the exhaust port. I'd just focus on that, take the exhaust off and align it with the exhaust port. Flick the ignition on and off a few times to make sure the cables don't realign.
If you want a quick way to diagnose your problem to get you a steer in the right direction then I'd do this.
- Align the powervalve flush with the exhaust port
- Disconnect the powervalve servo
- Remove the carb air filter boot (eliminating the airbox)
- Run the bike with no air filter
What this should do.
Remove the powervalve will stifle bottom end, but 6k+ should shoot off like a rocket.
Eliminating the airfilter removes any restrictions that might be present in the air intake tract. Whilst not ideal running without a filter, it will be fine for a short space of time. Unless a stone flicks into the inlet you'll be fine.
You should now be running the bike quite lean (so avoid prolonged wide open throttle). The bike should run better now than ever.
If it runs worse, it tells you your jetting is too rich. If it runs better then you know that you need more fuel. If it runs the same, then you know the problem lies elsewhere.
I am expecting it to be the latter, I'm expecting the problem to lie else where, but ruling these items out first, means we can then start to go more technical knowing that we've addressed the simple things first.
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@hotshot-iii @calum im so angry at my self
, the hole time the problem was that i drove without the seat so my butt was too close to the snorkle. Went from 17.5 to 27.5 and 210 to 240 and runs like an angel. The 210 was totally worn out and was bigger than the 240.
Both are genuine mikuni jets btw. Still changed the coil tho. Threw that Chinese orange coil in the bin -
@hotshot-iii @calum im so angry at my self
, the hole time the problem was that i drove without the seat so my butt was too close to the snorkle. Went from 17.5 to 27.5 and 210 to 240 and runs like an angel. The 210 was totally worn out and was bigger than the 240.
Both are genuine mikuni jets btw. Still changed the coil tho. Threw that Chinese orange coil in the bin@Elan-n Don't worry about it, I've done a lot worse! Sometimes you can be so close to the thing you're trying to fix it's easy to miss something. The main thing is you're moving forward
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