DT125R FORUM

i believe its meant to be set to 70 nm

@calum I found that the wr200 clutch boss from 1992 were exactly the same as the dt ones and they are plentiful in the USA market selling for around £20-30 quid postage is also around £20 so around £40-£50 for a clutch boss instead of a NOS one for £110! won't forget the washer on this one

Pic for anyone intrested in forgetting to put the washer on and having to get a new one from USA for £40

Found out what it was one of the legs had snapped on the clutch boss due to me forgetting to me forgetting to put one on the shaft behind the basket...

I was riding the bike after breaking it in. Run it thought 3 heat cycles over the space of an hour. Was running a 40:1 mixture and there was no leaking coolant. My guess is it's the clutch boss rubbing. Didn't sound like the cylinder was scraping at the end of the video to me and would kick over fine after stopping and would not scrap kicking over? anyways heres the video.

Riding

Don't judge my riding thanks.

on the right side of the tank under where the plastic attaches to the right side there is a pretty sizeable hole in the tank. so i put some jbweld on it and let it dry. then gave it a couple twist of the throttle as well as 3 priming kick. got top dead center and started first kick so i guess it the tank? i don't really feel like fixing this tank IE paintin it and all so i really do think it comes down to buying a new one

@CYBER-NINJA the fuel line from pet cock to carb is ok. and tbh the tanks in terrible condition so most likely would be better to replace anyways as it's had a couple of welding jobs on it. When i brought it got it for a £100 as it was an insurance write off. So maybe theres a whole in the tank causing there to be no pressure in the petcock? but anyways it leaks fuel as well. i believe the dtr is a gravity fed petcock however so this is quite bizarre?!?!

used a funnel and tube and poured premix in it started first kick with choke and ran and rev'd. So i guess it's the fuel tank? weird though because fuel would flow though the petcock out the tank on rev and on the fuel maybe fuel was not flowing very well? anyways just gonna order a new tank and hope it fixes the issue

Hi any help is very helpful this is my first bike build so i'm kinda going with the flow. I've can get the bike started easily first kick when i have sprayed started fluid into the cylinder thought the spark plug hole. I have not tried starting by putting started fluid into intake to test reeds but seeing as without the started fluid and using the carb to get petrol to the cylinder it will make the spark plug wet. I'm guessing the reeds are fine. Did a compression test and got a reading of 125 psi which is good cause when i got the bike it was heat seized and after unseizing it (if thats a word) it had around 30-40 psi now the top ends rebuilt. sorry for my shit english 1. i'm tired been awake for all night :0 2. i dropped out of school but before that i got a E Grade in english so i have my reasons alright Don't hate PLZ

i left a lot of things out that i did so if you mention them and i have done them it's better as i will go double check them anyways

Thanks everyone for reads, Sam.

I've had problems with the swingarm pivot bolts that were not properly greased when installed completely seizing. I tried Pentrating oil, heat and the air hammer. None worked so i just used an angle grinder to cut the bolt.

@jgr72 once i had the brake piston all connected to the forks this was the easiest pad change ever only reason i had it off was i was putting a new piston in the caliper. i feel like a right numb brain for wasting a good hour or two fiddle with them stupid clips though!

I've got the brake pads in now but when i turn the brake i get a clippin noise on the disc so i think the clips are hitting them i'm just gonna try flatten them tomorrow

am i meant to put the pads in without the part that connects to the fork connected or with it connected?

The clips in the front brake that hold the pads won't stay in the actualy parts of the caliper meaning i can't install the front brake pads any ideas? any known ways to fix this without buying two new clips for £12?

i'l take it around the field once the rest of the parts have arrived. I'l make sure to record just in case it all goes wrong we can learn from this mistake

well to see if the bike runs well and what not i do i can't really watch a sprocket spinning a be like "yer looks good"

i spent £130 quid on the bike and just want to get it running first i've redone the engine with all new bearings seals new bore crank rebuild (just the lot basically) i've got the rear wheel i just want to get replacment spoke for it and really want to find 5 of the for no more than £20 idealy once i've got it running i will then feel happy to most likely splash some cash on some excel wheels or such.

Does anyone know the spoke sizes for a stock wheel on a dtr 1998. I had to cut five of them as they where completely seized in the nipples. anyone know where i can buy them on the cheap? (less than £20) any help is great I don't really want to buy a whole new set as it's about £50 but if it's the only way i guess i will.