Engine tuning/ bike build
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Hi again everyone, a little update on my dyno project i have going on, im thinking of maybe creating a another thread in the Off Topic section of more in depth instructions and how i did everything if there is demand for it, otherwise everything like anything in the world now adays can be found on youtube
Yesterday i got to building the front wheel "holder" where u slot the front wheel into so the whole bike doesnt move forward, used as many screws as possible and it seems relitivly bomb proof, the last thing i would want is to build a bike launcher that would shoot my bike off into my workshop and for all the gasoline to pour out, ignite, and then the whole garage would be ash, so keeping the bike steady and sturdy intop of both the dyno and my wooden pallets is priority number one
Oh yeah im also building everything ontop of wooden pallets, my first instinct was to weld a frame up from some square metal but i quickly realized that the price would skyrocket that way and me only being 17 with a very limited budget had to grab what i already had available to me, and it was these four wooden pallets, so far they work great and are really sturdy, im thinking of adding some wheels so i could eventually push the whole thing around in my garage. The pallets also keep everything really accesible and its really easy to spot if something goes loose, also alot of ratchet strap points.Today i got most of everything buttoned together, and it was my first time actually getting the bike up on everything.
I screwed the front wheel holder in place after taking some rough measuremtns of where it shiuld be to keep the rear wheel right over the rotor.Just came back in from my first testrun, im as happy as ever and honestly really proud that nothing broke or flew of in the garage, it did however open my eyes to some stuff i need to make it functional.
Dynoing it on knobbies wont happen, the tiny test run i did everything shook like an earthquake, also realized the importance of an exhaust fan because the whole room was filled with smoke only from the tiny video ill link below, also thinking about adding some actual hooks into the pallets for even better ratchet points because i honestly cant be too safe with this.
Dont mind the mess
I dont know if u can post a video on here but here is the link to the first ever test run https://imgur.com/JT99Urx
Bike isnt running perfect and it isnt really a big pull, its more just to make it a proof of concept even for myself, no computer or software plugged in either at the moment so didnt get any graphs or info yet, but its coming
Now my dilemma is if i should try to do a burn out to get a diy flat dyno ready tire, buy some street tires for the rims and wheels i have currently or wait and buy some supermoto wheels when i find a good pair that fits my budget, its my dream to have a pair of supermotos on there, but its just expensive, especially with shipping from uk to sweden. But if u have a pair or know anyone thats selling or parting out their bike with sumos on it im interested for the right price
sorry for yet another long post
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Thanks mate, its pretty botched together and u can tell that its homemade, i like the charm it gives off, but if it will actually be funcitional in the end is something different, ill keep updating on here however and soon i hope to post some graphs aswell
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@Arild
Don’t you really need another roller in front or behind the electric one? To stop the wheel from trying to climb off of the electric roller?
I think when there’s two the wheel just sits in between them. Especially if you can match the force/friction between them with a pulley or chain??...
Scratch that, the rollers have to turn in opposite directions. I can’t get my head around how you’d do that.. -
@SpookDog
Not really, if u look at production dynos its often just one roller, with the bike tied down and with the stop at the front it doesnt move, however ive been thinking and my conclusion is that it probably still wont work, seeing as the roller needs to be heavier, or larger diameterThis because the engine doesnt have the same resistance on the rollers as when its on ground, this causes the engine on the bike to rev to like 13k and the roller speeda up way too fast for accurate measurements i would think, havent tested that far yet however cause i had other stuff coming up
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@SpookDog said in Engine tuning/ bike build:
Would weighting it with a flywheel help?...
I’m thinking dumbbell weight
...I know nothing about dyno’s so bare with me here...
But wouldn’t altering the weight change the amount of resistance/force needed to move the roller in the first place thus altering readings more? -
@Stevie-Wonder
Long time no hear, bud!...
Yeah, but you’d want to try and match it to the weight of the bike and rider. Don’t get me wrong, I’m no expert on anything! My head just tells me that there needs to be some resistance otherwise it would be making revolutions and not much else?
How the feck you calibrate it I don’t know... -
Small update, ive not really been in the garage since fall break ended but this is what ive done this weekend
I was curious if you could change the bushings in the clutch basket, since my engine is clanking alot and making wierd sounds and i somewhat remember the clutcj basket being somwhat loose when i put it in, so since i have another dtr basket laying in my garage, a broken one, i decided to see if it can be opened up and i was thinking if i could maybe cad up some bushings for the clutch in the bike.
This is what it looked like, and it can infact be redone if u have a sloppy basket and these bushings get worn out, the only thing is i think you would have to thread those three holes where there had previously been pins holding it all together.
I also decided to cad up an attachment to my dremel that i can use to port my barrel, since all 90 degree grinders are so expensive and ive seen other peopel doing similar things i decided to mock it up in cad.
this is what i came up with, still a rough idea tho
Might not look like anything, but it will be powered by a rubberband or something along those lines, i got this idea from two stroke stuffing on youtube on his video on a homemade 90 degree grinder https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W6V5Piz_Uz8
Im scavenging parts from a 90 degree attachment i bought off of ebay that fits onto the dremel but it was too big to fit inside the bore -
@calum yeah i agree, i wanted to check if it was possible to change worn bushings and it looks like it is, however like i mentioned the real problem is putting it back together, my idea is to thread the holes and use some bolts and the best loctice there is but still id be somewhat worried of it coming loose
Whenever my engine is being torn out for a rebuild ill probably look into rebuilding the current basket aswell since it was alot more loose than the broken one I split
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@calum Id either take the ones from the broken basket since they seem pretty good, but im also thinking of designing a them in solidworks so whoever that needs them can just get them 3D printed, i however know nothing about 3d printing and im curious what the best plastic filament would be to use for something like that
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Yeah, ur probably correct, this basket is fine but its the one in my bike currently that is worse, and since this basket was broken anyway i wanted to have a look
Also, it would work to rivet it back together, however, for someone to do that at home might be difficult, youd need a hydraulic press and probably a lathe to machine the rivets since theyre conical on one side
I would just think its easier to get the holes threaded to m6 and use some bolts and alot of loctite, atleast for people without a developed workshop at home, i got no experience with loctite however so idk if theres stuff strong enough to hold the bolts in place
Posting this from my phone so no clue if the pictures are going up like theyre supposed to
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@arild
I’m guessing The clutch on your bike should feel really snatchy when engaging and disengaging the clutch, if it’s worn that bad? If it doesn’t I’d look somewhere else for the noise...Any engineering firm near you can make/supply and press rivers for next to nothing (I’m guessing under £20, they rebore a cylinder for about 40!) It’d be less work than threading it and finding a conical bolt to fit. Just google ‘local engineer’ and you’ll find loads of real clever people willing to work for you on any project you can imagine
they’re an underused resource IMO...Cheers for the pics, I’ve always wondered what it looked like inside...
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@spookdog Engineering firm round me took 16 months to clean my engine and still haven't welded my RS frame yet. Guys are mentall busy!!!
I reckon you should be able to tap the threads and lock tight without a problem. Get a nice countersunk bolt in there too by the looks of it.
Great job on the dyno
