Unable to keep engine running, please help!
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Disconnect the kill switch and see if there’s a spark still. Let us know...
If it won’t spark with the kill switch completely disconnected it’ll be the safety cut out (side stand/neutral/clutch) circuit causing problems. I think! I seem to remember people only getting a spark with the ignition off...
It would help to know what year stator plate CDI and loom you have
Get the Haynes bud. It helped me , eventually
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@89dt125nick This will be your problem then. Wiring sounds butchered which is why you're having problems.
The neutral switch shouldn't stop it from firing, but the side stand switch will. If it is not properly disconnected then it will exhibit the behaviour in the video linked.
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@SpookDog Hi, i disconnected the kill switch, did not spark at all then, so i traced what i believe to be the kick stand wire according to my haynes manual that has finally arrived! Its the Ukraine flag colour, so i have earthed that to the frame. It is giving one or two more fires and is spitting bigger flames from the exhaust port now but it still refuses to fire up, but it definitely is a touch better , but nothing more. I also earthed what i believe to be the neutral wire, light blue one, then it was not sparking. I have the kill switch out the system now and just have the black wire that went to it, earther to frame (it comes from the small 2 wire connector with the orange one at the coil.
Thats where im at, i have noticed that the plug will only spark when the flywheel is span fast with the drill, if you spin it relatively slowly it refuses to spark, however, i dont know what i did earlier but i had the plug sparking when the flywheel was span slowly, at that point i fitted the plug, kicked it and it fired immediately, then died, upon removal of plug and again, spinning the flywheel, it had reverted back to previous state of no spark at slow flywheel speed. It is very confusing. It seems to be doing different things. Im pretty much out of ideas now. I have taken 2 pictures. One of the wiring i have, probably the worst loom in DT history and one of the kickstand wire earthed, also the coil wires setup, these are the only wires i have modified and attached to anything, the rest is gone basically.
Thanks for the help guys. It wants to start and ive come a long way from buying it in literal bits, its just that last little thing now, hopefully i can get it going!
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The neutral wire is blue and you should connect it to the switch behind the gear change lever.
The side stand wire shouldn’t be earthed! On my bikes (1988-96) loom it is just not connected and everything runs fine.
The kill switch basically earths the wire to kill the engine. Your wiring isn’t right yet if it only sparks when earthed.
Can you remove your rotor and look at the stator plate? Or do you have a metal side cover with the stator in it, in stead of behind the rotor? Also can you please look for markings on the CDI unit?
Do you have a key ignition switch connected?We’ll get it running yet bud!
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@SpookDog Hi spookdog, thanks for the help, I have just put long blue wire to neutral switch and removed side stand wire from earth, still sparking only with the killswitch in off position. The flywheel is not part of the cover and i also do not have the correct puller to remove it. I did many years ago, but not anymore! In all honesty it doesnt matter if it runs or not now, as i have come to the conclusion there are too many parts missing, from sections of wiring, to the parts that regulate current for the lights and clocks, there are also parts missing from inside the casing,ie' speedo drive gear, i think it needs too much, i am not prepared to source all those bits and spend the time nor money doing so. so i am going to sell it as it is, and purchase one in better condition. I have tried everything i am capable of to get it running and have gotten somewhere at least which is a far cry from the state i got it in. Its all assembled now waiting for the next poor soul to come along and try their luck. I dont think the previous owner got it going either and he had it 2 years.
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@89dt125nick Sometimes that's the best decision you can make on a project.
It's sad that you are not prepared to sort it out, but it's okay because someone else who intimately understands these bikes like @scrimsmustang / @oldman can. So it'll make a project for someone I am sure.
I'm not aware of scacity of parts for these bikes, although it's been a while since I've tried to find bits for mine. I'm just source parts for other discontinued bikes at the moment
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@Calum Thanks Calum, yes i didnt plan on doing a full resto, which is the bes thing for it imo, i just wanted to see if i could get it going and get it roadworthy but you never know what your letting yourself in for sometimes until you start taking it apart! I think the best thing about this bike is that the engine numbers match the frame numbers and they are also correct on the logbook! So thats a good starting point. Thanks for the help, Im sure i'll be back at some point when i source another one.
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Where abouts do you live? Also how much is it bud?
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…What causes the side stand switch normally to mess up and stop the bike from starting?
I find mine plays up a bit sometimes causing the bike not to spark and fire up? I end up keep putting up and down the stand and eventually it will spark lol
How can I prevent this without bypassing?
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@DTGREENLANER I have never had an issue with mine. But my brothers old 2001 DTR was completely messed with so I know the pain first/second hand.
I'd imagine dirty contacts within the switch. So giving it a good clean with something like WD40 and contact cleaner. It's pretty low to the ground so I imagine it picks up all sorts of menancing dirt.
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I don’t have a sidestand switch so I don’t know if you can take them apart and clean them, like brake light switches...
Replace?!...
