So Close!...
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@Calum
I did not know that! I’ve been waiting for a realistic break in the nightmare so I can get a barrel done by PJME. I have a good condition (studs &threads!) 3mb that I’m gonna get a rebore done to. I’m also going to find out more about the o-ring conversion to the barrel. I really just want to know if it’s 1 o-ring (for the bore pressure only) or 2 (1 for the coolants outer as well). My current barrel is a bit worn & ‘slappy’ at low revs, which didn’t help my diagnosing at all!!
I’ve also got a couple of 4fu barrels. I wouldn’t mind getting one resleeved with a cast iron liner. It works out the same price as plating but with ‘future proofing’ rebore options
it’s just whether the FU porting makes it really financially worthwhile, HP wise? (If it doesn’t suit the Dtr I have a TZR (hw) chassis to put it in) I know the exhaust port is wider, ect, but don’t know how much difference it makes, Powerwise? Or if the inlet porting is different?...1909 miles and still copacetic!! Cooling still good. No popping, missing or knocking since cleaning out the pilot jet with notched wire, rather than air blown through...
Fitted Brembo carbon~ceramic pads tonight. Was a total PITA! Had to loosen the bleed nipple to retract the piston enough to fit over the pads. Is there a one way valve in the master cylinder?!...
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1909 miles and still copacetic!! Cooling still good. No popping, missing or knocking since cleaning out the pilot jet with notched wire, rather than air blown through...
Fitted Brembo carbon~ceramic pads tonight. Was a total PITA! Had to loosen the bleed nipple to retract the piston enough to fit over the pads. Is there a one way valve in the master cylinder?!...
@SpookDog You shouldn't need to do that to push the piston back although it might be necessary to remove the reservoir cap to back-bleed the brake like that as there's a membrane under the cap which is designed to expand and occupy more space inside as the pads wear.
Also well worth attacking the underside of the reservoir cap (if it's the front brake) with a brass wire brush as there's two little channels which allow the membrane to do this by letting air in above it during this process (and if these are blocked that could be why you couldn't push the piston back). Still at least you know the bleed nipple moves!
Failing that the Yambits master cylinder repair kits are ace and a lot cheaper than OEM!
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1909 miles and still copacetic!! Cooling still good. No popping, missing or knocking since cleaning out the pilot jet with notched wire, rather than air blown through...
Fitted Brembo carbon~ceramic pads tonight. Was a total PITA! Had to loosen the bleed nipple to retract the piston enough to fit over the pads. Is there a one way valve in the master cylinder?!...
@SpookDog The bleed nipple should be backed off when retracting the pistons, you risk damaging something otherwise.
On cars, with solid brake lines, the bleed nipple should be backed off else risking rupting a solid line.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@SpookDog The bleed nipple should be backed off when retracting the pistons, you risk damaging something otherwise.
On cars, with solid brake lines, the bleed nipple should be backed off else risking rupting a solid line.
The top was off of the reservoir when I tried. Piston movement isn’t not stiff or binding. Have no idea why I couldn’t retract it without cracking off the bleed nipple 🧐
First impression of the Brembo CC pads is very positive, especially considering they’re not bedded in at all!
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@SpookDog The bleed nipple should be backed off when retracting the pistons, you risk damaging something otherwise.
On cars, with solid brake lines, the bleed nipple should be backed off else risking rupting a solid line.
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@Calum If they've travelled too far to push back physically then you buy a cheap caliper rewind kit for about £20. Slackening the bleed nipple is a last resort.
I’m @ 1964 miles now and it’s running so sweet it’s unreal compared to my previous escapades!
60something miles on the Brembo’s and I’m well surprised @ how positive they are! It’s hard to judge brakes on a bike with such a bad front end. Just touching the front brakes makes the forks dive (what feels like) 2~3 inches, then firm braking takes it the rest (like I said, it’s hard to judge). But I’m convinced these carbon-ceramic Brembo’s are in a totally different league than the red EBC pads I was using (NOT ‘Red Stuff’ which I couldn’t find a vendor for). If your front brake leaves you feeling insecure then these are worth the £24 for the confidence they inspire IMHO
I’m gonna get a pair for the rear as soon as I’m flush...I can’t wait for the 40 days for my progressive springs to get here to pass! I’m hoping to have the full ticket of a front end that doesn’t get down right scary over 55mph!
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I’m @ 1964 miles now and it’s running so sweet it’s unreal compared to my previous escapades!
60something miles on the Brembo’s and I’m well surprised @ how positive they are! It’s hard to judge brakes on a bike with such a bad front end. Just touching the front brakes makes the forks dive (what feels like) 2~3 inches, then firm braking takes it the rest (like I said, it’s hard to judge). But I’m convinced these carbon-ceramic Brembo’s are in a totally different league than the red EBC pads I was using (NOT ‘Red Stuff’ which I couldn’t find a vendor for). If your front brake leaves you feeling insecure then these are worth the £24 for the confidence they inspire IMHO
I’m gonna get a pair for the rear as soon as I’m flush...I can’t wait for the 40 days for my progressive springs to get here to pass! I’m hoping to have the full ticket of a front end that doesn’t get down right scary over 55mph!
2170 miles since the rebuild and all is well. Zips up to & cruises @ 60mph (@6000rpm) so smooth and quick if there’s no headwinds!
Gonna try the Exol synthetic and see how it stands up to castrol1 and silcolene comp2...
Ordered the Brembo carbon ceramic pads for the rear and am gonna fit them with the front calliper with the new bigger diameter master cylinder...
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2170 miles since the rebuild and all is well. Zips up to & cruises @ 60mph (@6000rpm) so smooth and quick if there’s no headwinds!
Gonna try the Exol synthetic and see how it stands up to castrol1 and silcolene comp2...
Ordered the Brembo carbon ceramic pads for the rear and am gonna fit them with the front calliper with the new bigger diameter master cylinder...
2320 miles with no head blown! I’m officially calling it FIXED!! All caused by a too small pilot jet, un~fucking believable
Now I can get a rebore & new piston (that I trust completely) and get on with other jobs needing doing, like forks, paint, exhaust, new 6 foot friendly seat, new loom, ect -
2320 miles with no head blown! I’m officially calling it FIXED!! All caused by a too small pilot jet, un~fucking believable
Now I can get a rebore & new piston (that I trust completely) and get on with other jobs needing doing, like forks, paint, exhaust, new 6 foot friendly seat, new loom, ect -
@SpookDog 6 foot friendly seat? I had shorter dog bones made which jacked up the height of my bike. Roughly 10mm shorter than standard raised it sufficiently enough for me and I am 1.88m ~ 6"1
Jacking it would only make it worse for me. It’s the slipping down & forwards that stretches out my butt & boys. I need a higher, better padded/supported front to my seat. My but fits onto the spot where the soft thicker front foam levels out onto the thinner padded rear. There’s a ridge there I think...
Don’t RE’s have different tank, seat, config than the Dtr? I’m guessing they improved it...
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Jacking it would only make it worse for me. It’s the slipping down & forwards that stretches out my butt & boys. I need a higher, better padded/supported front to my seat. My but fits onto the spot where the soft thicker front foam levels out onto the thinner padded rear. There’s a ridge there I think...
Don’t RE’s have different tank, seat, config than the Dtr? I’m guessing they improved it...
@SpookDog the forward most lowest part of the seat is where you should be sitting with you inside leg squeezing the tank for ultimate control/stability. But sounds to me like this part is too low for you? The dt125r seat height is 840mm/33inches, and the dt125re is 915mm/36inches so considerably taller. You can swap the seats as I've seen it done but you'd need to also swap the tank and all panels. A bit extreme though for a classic bike. Alternatively remove the seat cover and pack it up with a bit of memory foam or similar. Probably then best to fit a new seat cover.
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@SpookDog the forward most lowest part of the seat is where you should be sitting with you inside leg squeezing the tank for ultimate control/stability. But sounds to me like this part is too low for you? The dt125r seat height is 840mm/33inches, and the dt125re is 915mm/36inches so considerably taller. You can swap the seats as I've seen it done but you'd need to also swap the tank and all panels. A bit extreme though for a classic bike. Alternatively remove the seat cover and pack it up with a bit of memory foam or similar. Probably then best to fit a new seat cover.
@markus-w
If I sit there my knees are too far forward. My elbows stick out like chicken wings. Also my ankles won’t let my feet bend up enough to operate the gearshift. I just can’t fold myself up enough, imagine like a clown on a mini bike! But squatting for a dump
Cheers for the RE info. I didn’t realise the tank, seat & panels could be fitted to a dtr I thought the exhaust was different as well?...
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@markus-w
If I sit there my knees are too far forward. My elbows stick out like chicken wings. Also my ankles won’t let my feet bend up enough to operate the gearshift. I just can’t fold myself up enough, imagine like a clown on a mini bike! But squatting for a dump
Cheers for the RE info. I didn’t realise the tank, seat & panels could be fitted to a dtr I thought the exhaust was different as well?...
@SpookDog slight difference in the exhaust, mainly the bracket near the radiator which can be easily adapted with a little spacer but there would be no need to change the exhaust. Have you considered wider bars with risers and rotate the gear lever forward on the teeth by 15-20 degrees?
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@SpookDog slight difference in the exhaust, mainly the bracket near the radiator which can be easily adapted with a little spacer but there would be no need to change the exhaust. Have you considered wider bars with risers and rotate the gear lever forward on the teeth by 15-20 degrees?
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@markus-w
Good ideas but the foot pegs are just too far back for my frame. I have plans for a custom seat. I have 2 spare bases and 1 spare foam. It’s just pretty low on my priorities at the mojo. I will get round to it though
Cheers bud3077 miles and all is well with my head 🥴
I’m getting the odd cloud of blue smoke when I open it up after a while of riding though. I ride conservatively most of the time not going above 6000rpm’s, but when I do I get a hellavu cloud of smoke, enough to notice in the mirrors! I’ve noticed it before but usually it’s when I’m at 70 in 5th. The engine doesn’t ‘chug’ or drop off revs at all. Today though it did it when I dropped a gear to overtake at about 50mph, I didn’t notice the rpm, just the cloud of smoke in my mirrors!...
Anyone else notice this with their bikes? Is it normal? Or do I have a brake pedal side crank seal problem? Any input is appreciated
...It doesn’t do it every time. Just the odd time after riding ‘gently’
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3077 miles and all is well with my head 🥴
I’m getting the odd cloud of blue smoke when I open it up after a while of riding though. I ride conservatively most of the time not going above 6000rpm’s, but when I do I get a hellavu cloud of smoke, enough to notice in the mirrors! I’ve noticed it before but usually it’s when I’m at 70 in 5th. The engine doesn’t ‘chug’ or drop off revs at all. Today though it did it when I dropped a gear to overtake at about 50mph, I didn’t notice the rpm, just the cloud of smoke in my mirrors!...
Anyone else notice this with their bikes? Is it normal? Or do I have a brake pedal side crank seal problem? Any input is appreciated ...It doesn’t do it every time. Just the odd time after riding ‘gently’
MOT time today! And my bike has decided it’s not gonna rev above 6k anysense! Seems the power valve is sticky/gummed up in the barrel. I’m gonna strip it and clean it after the mot. Does this happen often or just after I started using different 2stroke oil?!
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MOT time today! And my bike has decided it’s not gonna rev above 6k anysense! Seems the power valve is sticky/gummed up in the barrel. I’m gonna strip it and clean it after the mot. Does this happen often or just after I started using different 2stroke oil?!
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MOT time today! And my bike has decided it’s not gonna rev above 6k anysense! Seems the power valve is sticky/gummed up in the barrel. I’m gonna strip it and clean it after the mot. Does this happen often or just after I started using different 2stroke oil?!
@SpookDog
The servo motor is ok isn’t it ? For the powervalve to be gummed up and it’s not opening is a bit suspect, as the servo can apply quite a bit of force and if it’s not it might on its way out. ? Then again is the battery ok and alternator charging ok ? -
@SpookDog
The servo motor is ok isn’t it ? For the powervalve to be gummed up and it’s not opening is a bit suspect, as the servo can apply quite a bit of force and if it’s not it might on its way out. ? Then again is the battery ok and alternator charging ok ?It was proper sticky with black crud. Cleaned it up with some degreasant. I’ll have to keep my eye on it in the near future...
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It was proper sticky with black crud. Cleaned it up with some degreasant. I’ll have to keep my eye on it in the near future...
@SpookDog
I’d imagine that was due to carbon build up and the change in oil, just goes to show 2 strokes are fickle things and need regular TLC to be kept up to speed
