So Close!...
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Electrolysis?
Has anyone ever done this to remove rust from inside of a petrol tank?…
Here’s the ybr tap with an adorable little filter that is absolutely top drawer quality, internal o~ring seal and all!
It’s a same fit as a dtr or Tzr (shown) tap. The cool thing is that it’s effective as a water trap as well as being a wicked little filter!…
You can fit a proper looking tap ‘handle’ to it as well. It will need a bit of surgery with a Dremel or such on the rear of the‘handle’ though. you can see the difference below:
I know it’s not for everyone, but it’s a wicked little filter upgrade and watertrap, if nothing else…
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@SpookDog That is a nice tap, guess it has that filter to stop any foreign objects entering the YBR's fuel injection system
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Cheers guy’s! Another question: barrel dowels? Mainly where to purchase them & how much. I could probably make some but would rather use the proper ones. If they don’t fall out I seem to be destined to destroy them
…PS Gotten hold of a pair of rear indicators from a SR125 with the elusive mounting brackets. They look identical to the ones fitted to early Dtr125’s. I won’t know if they are the same PNs’ till I lay hands on them but they were £15 for the pair
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Cheers guy’s! Another question: barrel dowels? Mainly where to purchase them & how much. I could probably make some but would rather use the proper ones. If they don’t fall out I seem to be destined to destroy them
…Genuine from Fowlers, get some new cylinder studs/nuts at the same time, some fasteners are worth buying genuine and they're not expensive
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I ended up getting some titanium ones when I built my engine. I replaced all the engine bolts with Titanium and when all the bots are done you do shave off a good amount of weight.
The front engine mount can also be replaced with titanium, the chap had it listed as a Honda Grom engine mount bolt but also fits DTR.
I just bought the engine mount brackets in Titanium as well.
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@HOTSHOT-III certainly makes sense.
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I’d rather reuse the old ones than use non genuine ones!. I had some shiny ones come with a barrel I brought and they were shite. I sheared one off and it’d only been in a month or two!…
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Anyone clean the carb bowl and jets without removing the carb? It’s my one pet hate, all the hassle of removing and refitting the carb. Not to mention the potential damage to the rubbers every time you do! I’m wondering if you can empty it then remove the slide and just twist it 45deg to get to the bowl screws and then jets?…
I’ve got water/crap in my carb yet again
Time to put the new tap on tonight, I was going to do it this afternoon but a kestrel was eating a pidgeon (sp?) 10 foot away from where I work… -
Got my new replacement casing for my lump hammer spat the other night. Managed to get the barrel base studs out after a few try’s and some bloodshed and stuff…
It doesn’t look too bad…
I did manage to break a crescent of ally off that looks like it retains oil though
always something…
I wish I knew a Tig welder!…
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PS The cheap blind bearing puller I got from fleaBay for £12 works really well. It removed the two needle bearings and the awkward balancer shaft bearing nicely.
Got a new input shaft needle bearing ordered (£30!) and just need the size of the clutch actuator needle bearing now so that I can order it… -
@Calum
I’m such a martyr …I can’t believe the input shaft needle/roller bearing turned up today already! I just wish we had better weather. Cleaning up the casings & gubbins is bad enough, but trying to build anything on a windy day is a nightmare. Crap flying everywhere! Actually, I wish I had a workshop, or a shed even
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@SpookDog They do come apart, and the O-ring and circlip are less than £1 genuine from Fowlers. The trouble is DOT brake fluid doesn't contain a corrosion inhibitor, meaning crustyness builds up around the O-ring and where the plastic elbow fits in to the m/cyl (it's worth replacing this as well). They're always difficult to remove so you have to be gentle if you want to save the elbow, and expect where the O-ring fits to look like an STD clinic once you get it apart. The holes for the fluid to keep the m/cyl piston fed are like pin holes so make sure they're clear. This is why one-piece front master cylinders get all scabby around the cap over time.
I just bought a used mountain bike to restore which had Avid disc brakes (DOT4 fluid) and these are in the same state, whereas Shimano brakes use mineral oil fluid (same chemical base as baby oil) and you can run them for years without the pistons seizing or corrosion building up. In fact one of the YouTube MTB channels fitted a brand new set of Shimano brakes to a test bike, left the front alone and re-bled the rear with baby oil, ran them for a year, then stripped them and measured every component. They reported no difference in brake performance or component wear between the front and rear brakes. You can't run mineral oil fluid in a DOT fluid brake though, otherwise I'd have changed all my DTR brakes over!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63VIuPiX3CA
I also like to replace the tube between the m/cyl and reservoir when doing these as they often get overlooked and the stock tube swells up over time. This is no longer available from Yamaha and as DOT brake fluid is a solvent, you can't just use any old length of fuel line etc. I used Tygon 2375 tube off eBay:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121518690884
I've always found the Yambits master cylinder kit to be good for the rear on the DTR, and they also sell the round rubber membrane which fits in the rear reservoir.
If you want to rebuild your rear caliper though, I'd go with a genuine piston and seal kit. The eBay ones are cheaper but the fluid seal has a slightly smaller cross-section which allows fluid to leak past it! I fitted a set to a sub-6000 mile French import with calipers in good condition even before I stripped and cleaned them and noticed a dribble of fluid on the pad backplate during bleeding. Wiped it off and it came back several times, so to get me out of a jam (summer evening) I refitted the old OEM seals which cured it. Bought a genuine set shortly afterwards and had no more issues. And the piston DOES fit into the caliper with the closed end facing outwards like in the Haynes/Yamaha parts schematic; it's the same rear brake as the '88 YZ125 and this is to stop the inside of the piston filling with mud.
I feel like I've gone full Hermione Grainger writing this but for something which looks simple, the DTR rear brake is one of the biggest PITA jobs I've ever had to do. Once it's right though it works very well.
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Do you know of a good place to get the elbow? Only one that I’ve found is in France…
I found bleeding the front brake in to be the biggest PitA!
…Are you 100% about the orientation of the piston? I questioned it the first time I did them and wasn’t sure. Everyone told me it was ‘base in’ IIRC?…
PS: Does anyone have any decent tips on bleeding in the front brakes? I’ve got a cheap vacuum pump that I’ve been using, but I still don’t think it’s right…
I’ve even thought of laying the bike down on it’s side! It’s just getting the reservoir level! …
