What was I thinking!…
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Can anyone tell me about the bottom rear engine mount on the tzr’s? The 4hw & 4dl engines have no rubber&steel bushings in the casings. They mount to the ally frame on one side only. I’m just wondering what the setup is? Mine was apart when I got it and there are no bits relevant that fit it…
@SpookDog Just looked on Yamaha France, the '93 4DL shows the rubber/steel bushes in the lower rear engine mount but they're not shown on the '93 and '95 4FL. Is one of these the Belgarda and the other the one that looks like a V-twin TZR250? If so that might explain it, I can just picture the Belgarda factory leaving out a relatively non-essential item such as an engine mount.
Also tubeless tyre bead seating, some of the guys who drive to the North Pole in those balloon-tyred snow trucks, if/when they get punctures they plug the hole, then squirt some lighter fuel inside the tyre carcass on the rim and put a match to it and that seems to seat the bead just fine.
Doing this in a suburban setting is appealing but I think a safer method is wait until Lidl start selling those 50 litre compressors for £99 again (Machine Mart price: £200+ for exactly the same unit) and get one. I've used mine for all my tubed tyres and it's been ace, specially with Avon TrailRiders which for some reason are a right PITA to seat properly on DTR rims even in the correct sizes with loads of lube. I've always had to pop the valve core out of the tube and blow in 50psi quickly (i.e no different from fitting a tubeless tyre) to get them seated all the way around the wheel. Very good road-biased tyres for stock DTR wheels though, grippy on tarmac and sufficiently puncture-proof to allow light greenlaning when it's bone dry.
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@SpookDog Just looked on Yamaha France, the '93 4DL shows the rubber/steel bushes in the lower rear engine mount but they're not shown on the '93 and '95 4FL. Is one of these the Belgarda and the other the one that looks like a V-twin TZR250? If so that might explain it, I can just picture the Belgarda factory leaving out a relatively non-essential item such as an engine mount.
Also tubeless tyre bead seating, some of the guys who drive to the North Pole in those balloon-tyred snow trucks, if/when they get punctures they plug the hole, then squirt some lighter fuel inside the tyre carcass on the rim and put a match to it and that seems to seat the bead just fine.
Doing this in a suburban setting is appealing but I think a safer method is wait until Lidl start selling those 50 litre compressors for £99 again (Machine Mart price: £200+ for exactly the same unit) and get one. I've used mine for all my tubed tyres and it's been ace, specially with Avon TrailRiders which for some reason are a right PITA to seat properly on DTR rims even in the correct sizes with loads of lube. I've always had to pop the valve core out of the tube and blow in 50psi quickly (i.e no different from fitting a tubeless tyre) to get them seated all the way around the wheel. Very good road-biased tyres for stock DTR wheels though, grippy on tarmac and sufficiently puncture-proof to allow light greenlaning when it's bone dry.
Bud! Thank you for that, I’d totally forgot the bang trick! Will let you know how it goes!
…I don’t know about other models, but the ally framed 4hw doesn’t have any bushes fitted to the casings. I checked other pics of cases I could find. It only has 1 aluminium mounting lug on the foot brake side of the frame. So I’m guessing there’s some kinda insert/lug, but what it looks like I know not!
Which isn’t a new condition for me!…
I don’t want to ‘hard bolt’ it, I’ll try to put some kinda poly bush in maybe. Something with a bit of give in it, if nobod can tell me what the actual what is 🧐 … -
Bud! Thank you for that, I’d totally forgot the bang trick! Will let you know how it goes!
…I don’t know about other models, but the ally framed 4hw doesn’t have any bushes fitted to the casings. I checked other pics of cases I could find. It only has 1 aluminium mounting lug on the foot brake side of the frame. So I’m guessing there’s some kinda insert/lug, but what it looks like I know not!
Which isn’t a new condition for me!…
I don’t want to ‘hard bolt’ it, I’ll try to put some kinda poly bush in maybe. Something with a bit of give in it, if nobod can tell me what the actual what is 🧐 …@SpookDog These are the DT125R lower rear engine mount bushes, maybe one of these per side and just find a bolt the right length for the one engine mount? An old oil drain bolt maybe?
https://yambits.co.uk/dt125r-engine-mounting-damper-rear-p-59122.html
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@SpookDog These are the DT125R lower rear engine mount bushes, maybe one of these per side and just find a bolt the right length for the one engine mount? An old oil drain bolt maybe?
https://yambits.co.uk/dt125r-engine-mounting-damper-rear-p-59122.html
Yeah, I thought of that but there has to be an original solution. It’s just finding someone who knows what it is…
Cheers though!…
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@SpookDog These are the DT125R lower rear engine mount bushes, maybe one of these per side and just find a bolt the right length for the one engine mount? An old oil drain bolt maybe?
https://yambits.co.uk/dt125r-engine-mounting-damper-rear-p-59122.html
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Hey bud, can you look up Tzr125 4HW 1994 and see what it says for the same?…
@SpookDog Closest I can get to that is the '93 4HW (Yamaha France/Fowlers don't list it in the '94 TZR-Rs); no rubber bushes or lower rear engine mounting bolt shown on the crankcase schematic. I can't imagine Yamaha making major design changes to the crankcases for one model so there are probably holes for the rubber bushes I linked earlier that are just left empty. The chassis schematic appears to show a mounting lug of sorts on the cross member below the swingarm mount, do any of the holes in your crankcases line up with that assuming it's there?
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@hotshot-iii Remember the 4DL Belgarda models are cast by Motori minarelli so made in a different factory.
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The single sided lug…
Clutch side…
Flywheel side…
Non of the other 4hw engines I’ve found pics of have bushes fitted either. There are no obvious marks where bushes or insets have sat before, but you can see the‘shadow’ where a bolt was fitted on the other side of the lug…
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The single sided lug…
Clutch side…
Flywheel side…
Non of the other 4hw engines I’ve found pics of have bushes fitted either. There are no obvious marks where bushes or insets have sat before, but you can see the‘shadow’ where a bolt was fitted on the other side of the lug…
Oh well, that explains it! I mock fitted an old 4bl casing which has the same dimensions as the 4hw lump…
They aren’t meant to line up…
It was never meant to have a lower mount, it looks like the exhaust hanger lug!
…Oh well! At least I can put that mystery to bed and move on
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Oh well, that explains it! I mock fitted an old 4bl casing which has the same dimensions as the 4hw lump…
They aren’t meant to line up…
It was never meant to have a lower mount, it looks like the exhaust hanger lug!
…Oh well! At least I can put that mystery to bed and move on
…I really need to find 3XV, 4HW or 4FL plastics. Seat bits, main~side fairings and centre V bit are the main suspects…
Any tips on Japanese auction sites, ect would be very sweet. I’m really not very good at finding this kinda obsolete stuff. Any help or advice would be well appreciated … -
I really need to find 3XV, 4HW or 4FL plastics. Seat bits, main~side fairings and centre V bit are the main suspects…
Any tips on Japanese auction sites, ect would be very sweet. I’m really not very good at finding this kinda obsolete stuff. Any help or advice would be well appreciated …Is there any realistic way of cleaning debris out of around the crank and bearings without splitting the cases? I have no idea how many years the lump has been laying around with no top end on it. It was deep in oil and ‘plugged’ by the previous, but I’m leery of it cause there was visible sand/grit …
I’ve washed it out with very oily petrol (2T) and there are no grit noises… -
Is there any realistic way of cleaning debris out of around the crank and bearings without splitting the cases? I have no idea how many years the lump has been laying around with no top end on it. It was deep in oil and ‘plugged’ by the previous, but I’m leery of it cause there was visible sand/grit …
I’ve washed it out with very oily petrol (2T) and there are no grit noises… -
Ok ignore that. I’ve got gear oil coming out of the coolant duct:
Gonna have to split it to investigate
Just whipped of the pump cover and oil has filled up in there. Hopefully past the seal!
…Edit:
Removed the clutch casing.
The gasket is perfect. I’m gonna check out the pump seal next. I can’t imagine oil getting past it but this motor might of been sitting for 10 years for all I know. There was oil in the impeller anyways…PS any tip on removing the water pump seal? She doesn’t want to move
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Managed to clean out the crank, bearings & casing by using my Wurth degreasant pump up spray bottle. Filled it with heavily 2T’d petrol, angled the lump up on wooden blocks, and flushed out the whole lot with a steady stream while gently rotating the crank. I made sure the gearbox bearings were oiled. It turns over very quietly with my little finger in the little end of the conrod…
I’m happy with it… -
Managed to clean out the crank, bearings & casing by using my Wurth degreasant pump up spray bottle. Filled it with heavily 2T’d petrol, angled the lump up on wooden blocks, and flushed out the whole lot with a steady stream while gently rotating the crank. I made sure the gearbox bearings were oiled. It turns over very quietly with my little finger in the little end of the conrod…
I’m happy with it… -
There’s a 32mm vhsa dellorto on fleabay for £75
What do you think?
Item number:
275975473343@SpookDog Looks good but what carb do you have on it now? And you'll need to sort some jets for it as the seller says they're missing.
Can't remember whether yours is a normal UK TZR125R or an Italian market Belgarda, I think the UK ones had a TM28SS similar to the DTR and the Belgarda had the Dell'Orto. There could be differences in the CDI and pipe as well.
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@SpookDog Looks good but what carb do you have on it now? And you'll need to sort some jets for it as the seller says they're missing.
Can't remember whether yours is a normal UK TZR125R or an Italian market Belgarda, I think the UK ones had a TM28SS similar to the DTR and the Belgarda had the Dell'Orto. There could be differences in the CDI and pipe as well.
It’s a UK 1994 Tzr125rr (4hw) it was a small production number 125 model that used the frame from a 3xv Tzr250rr. It doesn’t have the belgarda Alu swingarm or polini alu forks. It has steel ones. Bit of a bitza
whatever you had left in the parts bin job…It didn’t have a carb when I got it. I bought a 28mm Mikuni for it from fleabay a while ago but haven’t tried it yet…
Good price for the carb?…
Also it’s listed as a flatslide but the slide body has a round cap?…
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It’s a UK 1994 Tzr125rr (4hw) it was a small production number 125 model that used the frame from a 3xv Tzr250rr. It doesn’t have the belgarda Alu swingarm or polini alu forks. It has steel ones. Bit of a bitza
whatever you had left in the parts bin job…It didn’t have a carb when I got it. I bought a 28mm Mikuni for it from fleabay a while ago but haven’t tried it yet…
Good price for the carb?…
Also it’s listed as a flatslide but the slide body has a round cap?…
Different subject! I’m thinking that because it was stood so long and the water pump seal perished, should I change the main crank seals while its out? I only have a new set of soft rubber OEM ones (the genuine ones seem harder/stiffer)
I’ve changed both sides before on these lumps without splitting the cases…I need an RE flywheel puller though. I only have a kickstart model one…
I know that it’s not any kind of guarantee, but it only has 10.5k miles on the clock. I’m wondering whether to leave the originals in…
