What was I thinking!…
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@SpookDog These are the DT125R lower rear engine mount bushes, maybe one of these per side and just find a bolt the right length for the one engine mount? An old oil drain bolt maybe?
https://yambits.co.uk/dt125r-engine-mounting-damper-rear-p-59122.html
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Yeah, I thought of that but there has to be an original solution. It’s just finding someone who knows what it is…
Cheers though!…
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Hey bud, can you look up Tzr125 4HW 1994 and see what it says for the same?…
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@SpookDog Closest I can get to that is the '93 4HW (Yamaha France/Fowlers don't list it in the '94 TZR-Rs); no rubber bushes or lower rear engine mounting bolt shown on the crankcase schematic. I can't imagine Yamaha making major design changes to the crankcases for one model so there are probably holes for the rubber bushes I linked earlier that are just left empty. The chassis schematic appears to show a mounting lug of sorts on the cross member below the swingarm mount, do any of the holes in your crankcases line up with that assuming it's there?
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@hotshot-iii Remember the 4DL Belgarda models are cast by Motori minarelli so made in a different factory.
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The single sided lug…
Clutch side…
Flywheel side…
Non of the other 4hw engines I’ve found pics of have bushes fitted either. There are no obvious marks where bushes or insets have sat before, but you can see the‘shadow’ where a bolt was fitted on the other side of the lug…
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Oh well, that explains it! I mock fitted an old 4bl casing which has the same dimensions as the 4hw lump…
They aren’t meant to line up…
It was never meant to have a lower mount, it looks like the exhaust hanger lug!
…Oh well! At least I can put that mystery to bed and move on
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I really need to find 3XV, 4HW or 4FL plastics. Seat bits, main~side fairings and centre V bit are the main suspects…
Any tips on Japanese auction sites, ect would be very sweet. I’m really not very good at finding this kinda obsolete stuff. Any help or advice would be well appreciated … -
Is there any realistic way of cleaning debris out of around the crank and bearings without splitting the cases? I have no idea how many years the lump has been laying around with no top end on it. It was deep in oil and ‘plugged’ by the previous, but I’m leery of it cause there was visible sand/grit …
I’ve washed it out with very oily petrol (2T) and there are no grit noises… -
Just whipped of the pump cover and oil has filled up in there. Hopefully past the seal!
…Edit:
Removed the clutch casing.
The gasket is perfect. I’m gonna check out the pump seal next. I can’t imagine oil getting past it but this motor might of been sitting for 10 years for all I know. There was oil in the impeller anyways…PS any tip on removing the water pump seal? She doesn’t want to move
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Managed to clean out the crank, bearings & casing by using my Wurth degreasant pump up spray bottle. Filled it with heavily 2T’d petrol, angled the lump up on wooden blocks, and flushed out the whole lot with a steady stream while gently rotating the crank. I made sure the gearbox bearings were oiled. It turns over very quietly with my little finger in the little end of the conrod…
I’m happy with it… -
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@SpookDog Looks good but what carb do you have on it now? And you'll need to sort some jets for it as the seller says they're missing.
Can't remember whether yours is a normal UK TZR125R or an Italian market Belgarda, I think the UK ones had a TM28SS similar to the DTR and the Belgarda had the Dell'Orto. There could be differences in the CDI and pipe as well.
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It’s a UK 1994 Tzr125rr (4hw) it was a small production number 125 model that used the frame from a 3xv Tzr250rr. It doesn’t have the belgarda Alu swingarm or polini alu forks. It has steel ones. Bit of a bitza
whatever you had left in the parts bin job…It didn’t have a carb when I got it. I bought a 28mm Mikuni for it from fleabay a while ago but haven’t tried it yet…
Good price for the carb?…
Also it’s listed as a flatslide but the slide body has a round cap?…
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Different subject! I’m thinking that because it was stood so long and the water pump seal perished, should I change the main crank seals while its out? I only have a new set of soft rubber OEM ones (the genuine ones seem harder/stiffer)
I’ve changed both sides before on these lumps without splitting the cases…I need an RE flywheel puller though. I only have a kickstart model one…
I know that it’s not any kind of guarantee, but it only has 10.5k miles on the clock. I’m wondering whether to leave the originals in…
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@SpookDog The Dell'Orto looks good for the money but the UK TZR125R 4HW ran the TM28SS as per DTR with a few minor changes so if you have one I'd stick with that. A lot of two-stroke tuners run into problems bolting on bigger carbs as it tends to reduce low-end power without really improving the top end.
I always preferred the UK version to the Belgarda TBH, smiley face headlight makes it look identical to the V-Twin TZR250. I have a TZR125R Service Information book I downloaded for free on PDF; it's in French but maybe @Calum or someone can advise me whether it's possible to upload it onto here.
Also agree with @MadGyver ; change every seal in the engine if it's been stood for any length of time. Koyo gearbox bearings are pretty cheap from PJME and at the risk of banging on about the virtues of the Top Racing/Jasil crankshaft, a French company makes an adapter so you can run one in a DTRe engine. It's just a thin cone-shaped piece of steel which fits onto the crank taper before the DTRe flywheel, and has a slot so it can fit over the woodruff key:
To remove the DTRe flywheel I think you need a harmonic balance puller like this one:
https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht698-46-piece-harmonic-balance-puller/
