So Close!...
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Wow! It was just the fuse, only had a 5a fitted. I didn’t realise that the battery carried 90% of the load for ancillaries! Makes me wonder even more about why it takes power away from the headlight!?! I need to try a different RR…
I think it might be a weak earth. There was this ‘trick’ we used to do when water cooling PCs. The 12v fans were too loud so we would wire +12v to the fans positive and wire +5v to the negative. This would run the fan at 7v so it was quieter. Maybe something along these lines is happening?…
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@SpookDog Glad to hear you have a spare servo and cables, but maybe time for some home made PV cables you can lube in situ?
https://dt125r.co.uk/post/28693
The trouble with YPVS is, on most bikes equipped with it the PV cables are too short and vertical to retain lube for any length of time. Plus to lube the stock cables you have to take them off then refit and readjust them so usually they just never get done and eventually break.
There is only one 3MB servo as far as I'm aware, the part number is 3MB-85820-00, I think the other numbers on them just refer to batch numbers used during manufacture. In fact I bought some brand new 3MB servos from Germany with KTM part numbers (originally destined for the KTM LC2 125, a kind of DTR-engined KTM 125 trail bike) and they also had the above part number on the packaging as well as having 3MB stamped on the actual servo and Yamaha moulded into the case. Fitted one to my '93 during the frame-off rebuild and performance was identical. Exactly the same part, and the LC2 also runs a 3MB CDI unit (I bought a used one and it worked on my '98 DTRe).
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Cheers bud, I was worried that the controller board inside would have it cutting in at a different range, or some such. The spare one came with a P barrel with moto morrini marked on the power valve housing. So I thought it may be different if it’s for a Tzr…
Cleaned the power valve to within an inch of its life and lubed it. You can turn it by blowing on it now
lubed the cables too…But the fuse has blown again! The tail & brake light stopped working as well! Replaced a bullet connector on the brake wire and the tail light fixed itself
35 year old wiring syndrome. Vibration takes its toll over time on the connectors. I believe it’s why connections are crimped, rather than a ‘hard joint’ solder…All this started when I repaired a lot of worn connectors behind the headlight. The only thing I changed is putting an earth directly from the battery to the frame. I’ve got a RR off of a later Dtr that I’m going to try fitting. It’s got to be better than the OEM replacement that the previous owner fitted…
Hopefully it’ll put my electrical gremlins down long enough that i can get to trying to make a new loom… -
@SpookDog All sounds good
Interesting mod running an earth directly to the frame; the main earth is on the coil mounting so I guess you've probably checked/cleaned that already. Worth looking at though as lots of people get their frame painted, then don't scrape off the paint here before refitting the coil. Also the earth on the taillight sometimes gives trouble as it's in the form of a spade connector on the back of the actual bulb holder and so rarely gets any attention as it's hidden between the light and rear mudguard.
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Yep I always file them back to good metal. I think it was the spade connector jinking with the tail light
May sound silly but how many red wires connect to the battery positive +? 1 or 2?… -
Just been studying the manual and even though the AC & DC share a common earth there are two distinct earth~circuits, one B black the other Br brown. They both go through the key barrel separately.
I’m thinking that either the previous owner or Me have ‘polluted’ the two circuits. Seeing how I’ve had this problem from day one I’m blaming them
Now I just have to find out where the brown and black have crossed…The brake switchs, indicator flasher, neutral light, horn use the brown curcuit. The split from single black to black & brown happens just after the RR…
Hopefully this will help me fix something that’s been bugging me for ages!
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Damn, nothing! I really thought I was on to something. Oh well, RR is fitted and I’ll test it later on…
Can anyone tell me about the red 2T oil warning light? I seem to remember there’s a thing it does when you first turn on the ignition? Comes on regardless of oil and then goes out the first time you put it in gear, or the like?
Mine hasn’t been connected for a long while and I’ve totally forgotten …I ask because the black earth that is one of the three wires has a diode in it (one way valve for electricity?) I can’t suss out why…
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@SpookDog Looking at the 3NC wiring diagram there should only be one red wire coming off the battery +ve terminal.
The oil light should illuminate at the same time as the neutral light even with a full tank of two-stroke oil and go out when you put the bike in gear, it's just a visual check that the oil light works.
Light brown (Br on the diagram, not the same as dark brown for the left indicators which is marked Ch) is the main +ve feed from the ignition switch on all Yamahas from this era; it connects red to brown when you turn on the ignition, then as you say Br feeds the horn, brake light switches, indicator relay, temp gauge, neutral/oil lights and YPVS servo. So it helps to just consider it a continuation of the red wire. In fact if you remove your 3MB servo from the bike completely and apply battery voltage -ve to black and +ve to brown, it will perform its cleaning cycle like it does when you turn the ignition on.
Can't shed any light on why your black wire has a diode in it, only diode I can see is on the sky blue (Sb) wire near the oil level gauge.
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Oh fux me! On my diagram there’s no power valve servo. So it looked to me like the black earth just changed to a different brown earth curcuit. If I was more humble I’d feel pretty stupid
I don’t know why they left the PV connector in the diagram. I’ve got a red and a green connector (behind the headlight) that are both unused, and they don’t show them in the diagram.Bulb check! Makes sense now…
Cheers bud, always a pleasure…
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My diagram!
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Haynes
Wonder what else I’ve been swimming against…Nice diagram, is it online? I’ve got two solenoid box’s under the seat that I can’t find on any diagram. They have to be side stand cut out related, but I’d love to know for sure…
New RR didn’t work, no headlights at all. Do the later bikes put out any AC at all, or is it just broken
…Edit: I forgot, I passed 40,000 miles the other day (or night) was on 14.5K when I got it a few years ago…
Edit: Disconnected the battery to frame earth and the fuse hasn’t blown yet. I can’t get my head around wiring. It’s all a bit AC\DC
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The crank just turned up. It’s a nice looking piece of kit. I’m glad I listened, for once
…Another topic: anyone using gel batteries? Any issues with charging? Or should it be a lead-acid only on an early 3 stator bike?
I’m having issues with a gel battery I fitted last year. It’s holding a very small amount of charge, but when I try and charge it on a mains gel-specific charger it says it’s already fully charged. I don’t want to replace it with another gel battery only for the same thing to happen. If it’s not compatible with the early Dtr charging curcuit… -
I run a lithium battery on my DTRE. Nice and light and stores really well. Plenty of cranking amps too for the start motor!
I only paid £50 for mine several years ago...
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I appreciate that they are good, the next level. I think the Re is 3 phase and totally DC though. I think the 97 onwards may be as well. The 88-96 are AC & DC though.
From what I’ve read overcharging can seriously fux up a battery, on a liquid acid battery it evaporates the electrolyte and you can top up. On a gel battery you can’t replace it and it deteriorated to death
️I didn’t maintain my liquid acid battery and it dries out badly. I thought it was the heat at the time. I think I need to check my stator coil outputs
or replace the regulator/rectifier with a genuine one. I tried a later RR but the lights never worked. I’m guessing it is DC only. No AC current… -
Bearing puller set arrived today. £25 for 14 piece set which also has two ‘leg’ puller attachments (pun intended) that some kits don’t…
Nice & painless as I like it! Removed the bearing in 5 mins with no marking the crank at all. Wish I’d known about these before, back when two very large flathead screwdrivers were my ‘modus operandi’
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