So Close!...
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@SpookDog Have you machine-gunned your handlebar switches with WD40/GT85 lately? Just spray loads in until it fizzes and bubbles out of every orifice. Lots of little spring-loaded leccy contacty things inside them, it's a harsh environment for a switch. Good post-jet wash routine to get into
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First thing I tried
gonna investigate it some more today…I had it in the freezer for a few days! It was so cold wd40 was freezing on it into slush, couldn’t heat the bearing though. It has the bottom rubber seal fitted into it. Never seen one like it before…
Gonna have to find a steel pipe
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Does anyone else with an early bike 88~96 have issues with the headlight dimming when the brake light comes on? It’s been bugging me forever since getting the bike! The headlight runs off of a/c directly from the stator coil, but the brake light is run off of the battery, it shouldn’t affect it! The only thing I can think of is that they share an earth?! I’ve just rigged up an earth to the frame straight from the battery. I’m gonna see if that helps any. The neutral light looks stronger anyways, as is the PV on the key
…Fixed the indicators (& intermittent speedo bulb). Six new bullet connectors behind the headlight!! (& 1 bulb) The last couple years have been hard on the loom! Everything looks brighter on the battery now
…Almost forgot: This may sound stupid, but: 2T oil from the exhaust ‘filming over’ the battery top, could it diminish the output amp/voltage? Mine was coated and the power valve & neutral light had gotten ‘sluggish’. It’s better since cleaning, but I’m not sure if it was this or a poor earth to the battery? I guess I’ll try not connecting the earth, later after night testing…
I wish I knew a motor cycle electrician/Wizard
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@SpookDog Lights dimming with brake lights/indicators/horn is not really a problem as such, we discussed this back in March IIRC. All the early DTRs I've owned have done this, the combined AC/DC electrical system is unique to the DTR:
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Cheers bud! Mine dips regardless of revs. Tickover I could deal with…
@HOTSHOT-III
I can remember bringing it up but not if it got resolved in any way. It’s just gotten more noticeable the last couple nights I’ve ridden. Plus my electricals have gotten gremlins the last couple days…Oh yeah! My brake light just blew…
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Unbelievable! Half way on a commute I’ve lost all power to the indicators, dash lights, ect. The AC to the headlight, tail light and dial lights is still there. If it was the battery I’d still have working indicators, ect, when the engines running wouldn’t I?…
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Wow! It was just the fuse, only had a 5a fitted. I didn’t realise that the battery carried 90% of the load for ancillaries! Makes me wonder even more about why it takes power away from the headlight!?! I need to try a different RR…
I think it might be a weak earth. There was this ‘trick’ we used to do when water cooling PCs. The 12v fans were too loud so we would wire +12v to the fans positive and wire +5v to the negative. This would run the fan at 7v so it was quieter. Maybe something along these lines is happening?…
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@SpookDog Glad to hear you have a spare servo and cables, but maybe time for some home made PV cables you can lube in situ?
https://dt125r.co.uk/post/28693
The trouble with YPVS is, on most bikes equipped with it the PV cables are too short and vertical to retain lube for any length of time. Plus to lube the stock cables you have to take them off then refit and readjust them so usually they just never get done and eventually break.
There is only one 3MB servo as far as I'm aware, the part number is 3MB-85820-00, I think the other numbers on them just refer to batch numbers used during manufacture. In fact I bought some brand new 3MB servos from Germany with KTM part numbers (originally destined for the KTM LC2 125, a kind of DTR-engined KTM 125 trail bike) and they also had the above part number on the packaging as well as having 3MB stamped on the actual servo and Yamaha moulded into the case. Fitted one to my '93 during the frame-off rebuild and performance was identical. Exactly the same part, and the LC2 also runs a 3MB CDI unit (I bought a used one and it worked on my '98 DTRe).
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Cheers bud, I was worried that the controller board inside would have it cutting in at a different range, or some such. The spare one came with a P barrel with moto morrini marked on the power valve housing. So I thought it may be different if it’s for a Tzr…
Cleaned the power valve to within an inch of its life and lubed it. You can turn it by blowing on it now
lubed the cables too…But the fuse has blown again! The tail & brake light stopped working as well! Replaced a bullet connector on the brake wire and the tail light fixed itself
35 year old wiring syndrome. Vibration takes its toll over time on the connectors. I believe it’s why connections are crimped, rather than a ‘hard joint’ solder…All this started when I repaired a lot of worn connectors behind the headlight. The only thing I changed is putting an earth directly from the battery to the frame. I’ve got a RR off of a later Dtr that I’m going to try fitting. It’s got to be better than the OEM replacement that the previous owner fitted…
Hopefully it’ll put my electrical gremlins down long enough that i can get to trying to make a new loom… -
@SpookDog All sounds good
Interesting mod running an earth directly to the frame; the main earth is on the coil mounting so I guess you've probably checked/cleaned that already. Worth looking at though as lots of people get their frame painted, then don't scrape off the paint here before refitting the coil. Also the earth on the taillight sometimes gives trouble as it's in the form of a spade connector on the back of the actual bulb holder and so rarely gets any attention as it's hidden between the light and rear mudguard.
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Yep I always file them back to good metal. I think it was the spade connector jinking with the tail light
May sound silly but how many red wires connect to the battery positive +? 1 or 2?…
