Blue wires on 89 loom
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Because the engine is a different bike
I had to cut to the loom to route it through the frame an it's a tight fit
I m using a digital speedo
So the blue wire from ignition is now redundant an it has a big bulky connector on it
Thats assuming it won't effect anything else if its not connected ?
I ll put a pic later of the 2 pin plug with light an dark blue
I want to use the neutral light but I don't need oil light as running ore mix -
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Because the engine is a different bike
I had to cut to the loom to route it through the frame an it's a tight fit
I m using a digital speedo
So the blue wire from ignition is now redundant an it has a big bulky connector on it
Thats assuming it won't effect anything else if its not connected ?
I ll put a pic later of the 2 pin plug with light an dark blue
I want to use the neutral light but I don't need oil light as running ore mixWhat’s the story? Obviously a dtr engine and for the road, but in what frame? Can you post any pics? It’d be interesting…
PS anything that goes from stator to CDI is usually important. Is it in the main bundle of wires, or the ones on the right (under the carb) that come from the magnetic pickup?…
PPS the pale blue is clock illumination…
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It's in a yamaha dragster so it's a two stroke chopper
The clock illumination is a blue wire it's kind of a bright blue
The other blue from cdi is a pale blue( similar to search bar below )
But there is another blue on that plug same colour as clock ilu wire
I have 3 looms one is fitt4d to the bike
One was a slightly later loom.that was damaged so I ve unravelled it for reference
An I have another uncut loom
The loom on the bike is completely butchered an things have been moved around regulator an flasher relay now live under the seat
How do I post photos on here -
I ll do my best to describe it
Plug from generator has white. black.red/yellow.an PALE BLUE imagine an upside-down Y generator is at the top an cdi is at left on the right the same wire goes to.oil sender ( can I cut this bit out ? )
This plugs into a two pin plug at the cdi the other wire in the plug is dark blue this goes to.neutral.light ? It's the same colour blue as the clock illumination.wire but this is different wire -
I ll do my best to describe it
Plug from generator has white. black.red/yellow.an PALE BLUE imagine an upside-down Y generator is at the top an cdi is at left on the right the same wire goes to.oil sender ( can I cut this bit out ? )
This plugs into a two pin plug at the cdi the other wire in the plug is dark blue this goes to.neutral.light ? It's the same colour blue as the clock illumination.wire but this is different wireCan someone please walk him through posting pics? I’m too drunk at the moment and my phone is near dead
…Need some pics of the connectors bud! The upside down Y isn’t helping and I don’t have a search bar on my phones display of this site. Or Emoji s!
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@Calum
If I make an album on face book an right click copy image location can I post the image on here@dan28 Make an album on Flickr.com , then (assuming you're on a PC) to post up a pic on here:
Click on the image
Click the download link in the bottom right hand corner
Click on "view all sizes" from the drop down menu
It should show the image in "Large 1024 x 768" or similar
Right click on the image an choose "open image in new tab" from the drop down menu which should open the image in a new window with a new URL (the browser should read "live.staticflickr.com" followed by a load of numbers)
Click on the "Image link" icon on here (fourth from the right on the row of icons just above where you type)
Copy and paste the staticflickr URL into the Image link between the brackets -
@Calum
If I make an album on face book an right click copy image location can I post the image on here@dan28 said in Blue wires on 89 loom:
@Calum
If I make an album on face book an right click copy image location can I post the image on hereYes, should be able to link from any site. Although I do notice on a few sites they refuse to serve images if the origin isn't their own. I think this was Instagram, so wouldn't surprise me if Facebook does the same thing too.
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I m at work now will try to ad pics later
The light blue wire I mentioned look at the oil sender plug it has 3 wires one of then is the light blue if you follow it plugs into the cdi an branches of an goes to the stator / generator -
Oil warning light is black / red
An the wire other side of bulb is brown if I remember correctI don't think the light is for oil but when it meets the 2 pin plug going into.cdi the other wire coming off that plug is dark blue that I.mentioned earlier an that's. For neutral light
I don't understand what the light blue wire does although it goes to cdi an stator before going to.oil.sender -
There’s an oil warning light check, When you first turn the key it comes on, then goes out when you put it in gear and stays out. It’s probably to do with that…
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Oil warning light is black / red
An the wire other side of bulb is brown if I remember correctI don't think the light is for oil but when it meets the 2 pin plug going into.cdi the other wire coming off that plug is dark blue that I.mentioned earlier an that's. For neutral light
I don't understand what the light blue wire does although it goes to cdi an stator before going to.oil.sender@dan28 Here's a 3NC wiring diagram (3MB is similar but the CDI connectors are slightly different; you should have 3NC or 3MB or 3BN etched on your CDI).
Brown is main feed on Yamahas (think of it as the red wire from the battery, it goes in the main switch as red and comes out as brown). Both neutral and oil lights have a brown wire meaning they get power when you turn on the ignition. Neutral light wire is sky blue which changes to blue at the multiplug for the clocks (but is NOT the same blue wire as the one that goes to the speedo/tacho illumination bulbs; this connects to brown when you turn on the lights), it then goes through the CDI and comes out as sky blue again (not sure what it does in there, possibly connects to the sidestand switch blue/yellow wire if you put the bike in gear with the stand down) and runs directly to the neutral switch (it doesn't go to the stator, just passes through the same 4-pin plug as the stator only has 3 wires coming from it). The neutral switch connects to earth when operated which is why it comes on when you turn in the ignition.
Similarly the red/black wire from the oil light then goes through the oil level sender and changes to black so when the 2T oil runs low and operates the switch in the oil tank, it connects to earth and the oil light comes on.
The clever part is the black/red wire connecting to sky blue via a diode (which only allows current to flow in the direction of the arrow) upstream of the oil level sender unit. This lets the black/red wire earth via the sky blue wire to provide a check that the oil light works when you turn on the ignition and put the bike in neutral, and means it goes out when you put it in gear. And the oil light can still work independently of the neutral light if the oil tank is low.
If the diode wasn't there, the sky blue wire could earth via the black/red wire when the oil light comes on.
As @Calum @MadGyver @SpookDog have said, the neutral light wire passes through the CDI and no-one outside of Yamaha knows exactly what it does in there so I wouldn't go chopping it out. If you really need to get rid of the 2-pin connector to fit the loom into your project, best thing would be to get out the soldering iron/heatshrink and hardwire them together (i.e sky blue to sky blue and blue to blue) purely to get rid of the plastic connector block.
Anyway I might have got this wrong but it's late, and I've walked 12 miles over the Purbeck cliffs this evening for fish and chips in Swanage (a winter occupation for relieving January depression when it's too cold to cycle). Still a bit light-headed from the cold now!
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Thanks for that
The writing has worn off my cdi I think it's 3nc
I ll have a look at the loom over the week end@dan28 No worries. Also I just remembered, with a lot of those plastic connector blocks you can use a jeweller's screwdriver or a pin to flatten the little tags which anchor the actual terminals into the block, and when you get them out they're just like miniature spade connectors. So if you've got some heatshrink the right size to cover these, you could just push them together without doing any soldering, insulate with heatshrink and hang onto the connector blocks in case you ever need them (and you'll have two less butchered CDI/loom connections).
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