Yamaha Dt125 float height
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Hello,
I'm no Tik Tok guy but this folk seems to explain a way to know how to adjust it in a cabruetor from an early model DT, dont know if it will help much, but its the best I could find out there.
(I recomend you to read it in subtitles since the guy is talking in Latin Spanish)
https://www.tiktok.com/@caviastunt_/video/7293589686570716422
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Does anyone know float height for this carb? I belive its a tm28ss but i cant find that information anywhere.
@Camugica 15.5 - 16.5mm on the TM28SS.
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@Camugica 15.5 - 16.5mm on the TM28SS.
@HOTSHOT-III I was waiting to get home to grab my Haynes, so thanks for chiming in.
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@Camugica 15.5 - 16.5mm on the TM28SS.
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@HOTSHOT-III do you know if this carb has a air jet, because my bike is runing lean on pilot, no matter what pilot jet i put.
There is no air jet on intake side of a carb, shouldthere be one?
Thank for answer for float height@Camugica No worries
The DT125R TM28SS uses a mixture screw instead of an air jet, it's the brass one on the left of the carb body just in front of the carb-to-airbox rubber (below the idle screw). Normal starting point with a healthy engine is around 1.5 turns out from fully screwed in. Screw it in further to richen the low-speed mixture or unscrew it more to make it leaner. There should also be a spring, washer and O-ring on the screw (in this order) so it's well worth checking this if you're having low-rpm running problems. The screw is prone to seizing on the DTR carb so whilst it's removed smear some copper grease on the threads.
Some other Yamahas use the TM28SS with an air jet instead of a mixture screw like the TZR/TDR250 and DT200R 3ET (I think).
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@Camugica No worries
The DT125R TM28SS uses a mixture screw instead of an air jet, it's the brass one on the left of the carb body just in front of the carb-to-airbox rubber (below the idle screw). Normal starting point with a healthy engine is around 1.5 turns out from fully screwed in. Screw it in further to richen the low-speed mixture or unscrew it more to make it leaner. There should also be a spring, washer and O-ring on the screw (in this order) so it's well worth checking this if you're having low-rpm running problems. The screw is prone to seizing on the DTR carb so whilst it's removed smear some copper grease on the threads.
Some other Yamahas use the TM28SS with an air jet instead of a mixture screw like the TZR/TDR250 and DT200R 3ET (I think).
@HOTSHOT-III i know what a air screw is, i just wanted to know is there also a air jet. I am having weird problem.
bike idle at 3000 rpm, and i cant lower it down. Idle screw isnt helping and even if i turn air screw all the way in nothing happend. I dont have air leaks
i put a copy of a pwk carb and it idles normal but and i got more power at top and more torque on bottom. But trotle response is weird on it, its not crysp, and i cant get it to be perfect. It sound like ritch contition to me.
adn it had adjustable power jet and it makes a big diference in trotle response.
back on mikuni, i think its just a worn carb, i dont even have that much power with it, stock jets(210, 22,5) needle clip is in middle. I will stick with a pwk and try to tune it to its perfetction.
Also, willl removing on top of airbox, under the seat, help the airflow, of should i widen the hole on top of airbox??
Thanks -
Update on a problem.
i have pwn on bike now nad i remover rubber under seat, bike now sound so good.
And i got so much on a power, i thing this pwk like more air. I put bigger main jet in it and i get better throtle response on idle!, those carb are weird. And torque in low rpms is crazy.
3rd gear on 3500 rpms, i give it throtle and bike pulls like crazy right into a power band, so much low end grunt, and a sound of a intake its so good with a aftermarked silencer. I am so happy with a bike now.
And those pwk copies are good, just jet it corectly. I am planing on opening a expansion chamber and cleaning it out, and removig everything from it, cuz i saw there is like lining inside. Should i remove it or not ?
