Hello Everyone! Planning to buy a DTR125
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Clutch could be stiff for many reasons. I run uprated clutch springs on my DTR so it is stiffer.
The clutch cable comes off very simply, just slacken the adjuster nuts on the clutch arm on the engine, then remove the cable from the engine. Route it through the frame and disconnect from the clutch perch.
You can then run some lubricant through the cable. I suspect though it'll be the clutch springs.
If the bike is falling flat on its face at 8k, then I'd initially say Powervalve.
Easy way to tell. Take the exhaust off, switch the ignition on and off (you'll hear the servo do the cleaning cycle). Once the powervalve turns flush with the exhaust port, switch the ignition off. Disconnect the powervalve servo from the main loom and ride the bike.
The bike should lose all bottom end, so basically gutless below 6k, but should rev to the limiter.
If this is the case, you've identified it's the powervalve. If this is not the case, then you know the problem lies elsewhere.
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Clutch could be stiff for many reasons. I run uprated clutch springs on my DTR so it is stiffer.
The clutch cable comes off very simply, just slacken the adjuster nuts on the clutch arm on the engine, then remove the cable from the engine. Route it through the frame and disconnect from the clutch perch.
You can then run some lubricant through the cable. I suspect though it'll be the clutch springs.
If the bike is falling flat on its face at 8k, then I'd initially say Powervalve.
Easy way to tell. Take the exhaust off, switch the ignition on and off (you'll hear the servo do the cleaning cycle). Once the powervalve turns flush with the exhaust port, switch the ignition off. Disconnect the powervalve servo from the main loom and ride the bike.
The bike should lose all bottom end, so basically gutless below 6k, but should rev to the limiter.
If this is the case, you've identified it's the powervalve. If this is not the case, then you know the problem lies elsewhere.
@Calum Thank you for the info, just ordered adjustable clutch and brake levers as they are very far away and I dont have small hands. Regarding the 8k problem, I tried it more today and I wouldnt say it completely stops, but It feel smore like a soft limiter, it just stops revving. I've read it can be a CDI limiter, how can I know for sure?
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Did you try the powervalve trick I just told you about?
I know that the restrictions on the UK models differ from overseas models, so I am not familiar with what restrictions there are on other regions.
Either way, grabbing yourself a
Zeeltronicignition system will make all of these problems disappear and you'll gain a noticeable midrange boost. -
Did you try the powervalve trick I just told you about?
I know that the restrictions on the UK models differ from overseas models, so I am not familiar with what restrictions there are on other regions.
Either way, grabbing yourself a
Zeeltronicignition system will make all of these problems disappear and you'll gain a noticeable midrange boost. -
Hello!
Enjoying the bike alot! Installed adjustable levers, changed motor oil, bike works great! But what I’ve noticed, the days it is hotter (above 30c). The temperature starts climbing quick when standing at red lights(3-4 minutes of sitting at one place), if I drive its okay, needle sits just under half. I have mostly city driving, how do you guys battle this issue, possible to install a fan or a coolant sevice should help enough?
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DTRs do seem to run very hot in my experience. Always have, wouldn't worry about it.
My Aprilia RS usually sits around the 60 degree mark, I run a Vapor Trail Tech unit on my DTRE and it's ready 110 before!
To combat this, I removed the thermostat and now it sits around the 60-70 mark, just note you do really need to be careful when warming them up to ensure you don't cold-seize the engine.
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Well the best thing to do is to check to ensure that the thermostat is working correctly. You can remove it and place it into a sauce pan and check to see if it correctly opens at the right temperature when left to boil.
If your daily commuting the bike, then leaving the thermostat in is advisable. Yamaha know what they're doing.
If you start tuning the bike and pushing it beyond its original specifications, then you may want to consider removing it.
The thermostat isn't just there to aid heating up of the engine, it also has a role in providing pressure in the cylinder head to avoid pocket stagnation of gases. So it's actually important it's fitted.
I just noted that these engines do run warm and removing the thermostat allowed my bike to run at a more consistent temperature when under load.
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Hey again!
Did a coolant flush, looks like it holds temperature more stable now, it came out dark and brown.
Also continued chasing the 8k rpm limit issue, today I took apart the YPSV pulley and looked at the dot on the shaft marking, looks like it is in the right position? Below i attached two videos, one showing how far i can manually move the shaft left and right and the other one shows how much the servo moves the valve, to me it looks like it does not move the valve that much? Havent taken off the exhaust as I have not yet received the exhaust gasket and Im on the bike everyday so I dont want to have downtime.
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/MiziIZu_GQk
https://www.youtube.com/shorts/Z6HQNFDRNd8Covered 1100km so far, changed the chain guide, rear tube blew out, 3D printed the front disc guard, changed the seat from black to pink
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Now that im looking at a few clips on youtube, judging by the video below, my bike pulls harder 5-7k rpm compared to this, also at 100kmh Im nowhere near the rpm he is at in 6th. Is it possible that my RPM gauge is just lying?
https://youtu.be/ApCf6JFCfQ0?si=hsjthBfqmoRqZj8v&t=509
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