Bike running fast revs

[declan]

@declan should there be a gasket between the engine and the reed block spacer

[oldman]

Yes

[Calum]

@declan That was literally one of the things I rattled off before hand...

[declan]

@calum yes but my bike doesent have one @oldman is there two of those gaskets?

[Calum]

@declan No

Item 8 and be sure to buy either genuine or Athena.

As said, it's common for them to go there on these bikes because people either do naff copies, use inferior parts or reuse gaskets.

[declan]

@calum see I have a gasket underneath the inlet manifold is this in the wrong place then Bud?

[Calum]

@declan The inlet is "Rubber" therefore doesn't need a gasket.

The Engine is metal and therefore needs a gasket.

So yes. As I said at the start, it's an airleak. It's where I suspected it to be.

[declan]

@calum I’ll get the gasket switched round tomorrow and we will see how it goes thanks for you time mate

[Calum]

@declan As said, really that gasket should be renewed!

It's your bike do as you please, If you were a more experienced engine builder, I would defer to your judgement on whether or not that gasket could be reused.

But as you got it the wrong way around, I would say you're not too experienced.

It may work and cause no problems, it may fail on you when you're out and miles from home.

I would renew the gasket personally, saves yourself from headache down the line.

[declan]

@calum I didn’t put it on the wrong way it was already like that and I’ve worked on bikes all my life and did 2 years mechanics course at college but no I couldn’t say I’m an experienced engine builder but I wouldn’t re use a gasket if I thought it was bad

[Calum]

@declan Okay sorry bud. Was jut the vibe I was getting.

Put it this way, on engines, if you have two meeting surfaces, they should be surpressed with a gasket.

The reason why the inlet manifold doesn't need a gasket between the reed cage is because the inlet manifold is rubber,

But metal on metal definitely needs a gasket.

[oldman]

Experience has kicked me up the butt more than once (I am, after all, an old man!) and personally always use new seals,gaskets etc when refitting something, mainly because when problems arise like you are experiencing I know I can rule out a duff seal (you do get duff new ones occasionally, quality counts) and have been using Athena kits that have proved to be reliable.There is nothing worse than stripping something down you have just meticulously rebuilt because of a "minor" hiccup. By the way, I hate fitting that rubber boot as well, my fingers are a bit to pudgy to fit comfortably in the airbox

[declan]

@oldman thanks guys just pretty discouraged right now just feel like I can’t catch a break hopefully if I keep going it will work as it should

[oldman]

Know how you feel, felt the same when my inlet rubber split, take a break and get back to it with a clear head.

[declan]

@oldman thank you hopefully it will start and idle tomorrow

[scrimsmustang]

Is this reving high as soon as you start it ? Common things that will cause it also are a blown or incorrectly sealed cylinder base gasket or a leaking left crank seal, its usually the left side that goes they dry out and perish over time. Only a couple of quid and easy to fit, same with the base gasket.

[declan]

@scrimsmustang when first started it was perfect but soon as i gave it a nice rev it acted up

[oldman]

Not trying to teach you to suck eggs but is it possible slide binding on carb interior? Just wondered if that might explain the cable coming adrift also?

[declan]

@oldman possibly I just started it up and still the same I did notice the slide was sluggish but it was still coming to rest

[declan]

@declan okay so it’s working now the oil pump had stopped pumping had air in it no idea how but I guess that was my fault i wd40 every cable and after many hours it’s going but the cable keeps slipping out the carb does anyone have a fix for this?