Bike running fast revs
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@calum I didn’t put it on the wrong way it was already like that and I’ve worked on bikes all my life and did 2 years mechanics course at college but no I couldn’t say I’m an experienced engine builder but I wouldn’t re use a gasket if I thought it was bad
@declan Okay sorry bud. Was jut the vibe I was getting.
Put it this way, on engines, if you have two meeting surfaces, they should be surpressed with a gasket.
The reason why the inlet manifold doesn't need a gasket between the reed cage is because the inlet manifold is rubber,
But metal on metal definitely needs a gasket.
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Experience has kicked me up the butt more than once (I am, after all, an old man!) and personally always use new seals,gaskets etc when refitting something, mainly because when problems arise like you are experiencing I know I can rule out a duff seal (you do get duff new ones occasionally, quality counts) and have been using Athena kits that have proved to be reliable.There is nothing worse than stripping something down you have just meticulously rebuilt because of a "minor" hiccup. By the way, I hate fitting that rubber boot as well, my fingers are a bit to pudgy to fit comfortably in the airbox
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Experience has kicked me up the butt more than once (I am, after all, an old man!) and personally always use new seals,gaskets etc when refitting something, mainly because when problems arise like you are experiencing I know I can rule out a duff seal (you do get duff new ones occasionally, quality counts) and have been using Athena kits that have proved to be reliable.There is nothing worse than stripping something down you have just meticulously rebuilt because of a "minor" hiccup. By the way, I hate fitting that rubber boot as well, my fingers are a bit to pudgy to fit comfortably in the airbox
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Know how you feel, felt the same when my inlet rubber split, take a break and get back to it with a clear head.
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Is this reving high as soon as you start it ? Common things that will cause it also are a blown or incorrectly sealed cylinder base gasket or a leaking left crank seal, its usually the left side that goes they dry out and perish over time. Only a couple of quid and easy to fit, same with the base gasket.
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Is this reving high as soon as you start it ? Common things that will cause it also are a blown or incorrectly sealed cylinder base gasket or a leaking left crank seal, its usually the left side that goes they dry out and perish over time. Only a couple of quid and easy to fit, same with the base gasket.
@scrimsmustang when first started it was perfect but soon as i gave it a nice rev it acted up
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Not trying to teach you to suck eggs but is it possible slide binding on carb interior? Just wondered if that might explain the cable coming adrift also?
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@oldman possibly I just started it up and still the same I did notice the slide was sluggish but it was still coming to rest
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Something must be missing. Can you post some pics up so I can compare with mine? Is the cable new(ish)?
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On mine there's a little plastic clip that holds the cable into the slide, it's bright green I think - hard to miss lol.
Or is the cable outer coming loose from the carb top?Current bikes:
DT125X '07
Street Triple R '11
Aprilia ETV1000 '02Previous:
DR650RSE '96
FJ1200 '92 -
On mine there's a little plastic clip that holds the cable into the slide, it's bright green I think - hard to miss lol.
Or is the cable outer coming loose from the carb top? -
@finnerz89 that green piece is missing then I don’t remember there ever being one
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@declan you will never make one unless you have a 3D printer, the piece never moves use a small calbe tie it should do the job
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@ricky0115 how would I position the tie bud?
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@declan https://www.fowlersparts.co.uk/parts/view/3ME-1490J-00
That’s really what you need to do it properly they don’t sell it separately.
I was joking about the cable tie!
