Steering head play
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wrote on 16 Jul 2018, 11:45 last edited by
I’m having issues guys I’m tightening the necessary nut but it only goes so far and doesent take the movement out of her stem it’s like I’m missing a washer this is all I have right here
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I’m having issues guys I’m tightening the necessary nut but it only goes so far and doesent take the movement out of her stem it’s like I’m missing a washer this is all I have right here
wrote on 16 Jul 2018, 11:46 last edited by -
wrote on 16 Jul 2018, 11:49 last edited by
You need to determine where the play is coming from.
On my USD conversion, I had to shim the bottom bearing up 3mm so that the bearing came into contact with the race.
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You need to determine where the play is coming from.
On my USD conversion, I had to shim the bottom bearing up 3mm so that the bearing came into contact with the race.
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wrote on 16 Jul 2018, 12:08 last edited by
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wrote on 16 Jul 2018, 13:15 last edited by
That's nothing. Should only be a taper roller bearing. £5 simply bearings.
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@calum as usual it’s not that simple I can’t get the rod out to change it I’ve tried everything I’m probably just gonna have to run it as is I’ve got nothing left unless there’s some trick I’m missing
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@declan What you on about. Drop the forks and the yokes and it'll come right out no problems.
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wrote on 16 Jul 2018, 14:06 last edited by
@declan Forks removed from the bike. And the triple clamps removed. From the photo it looks like they're all still in place.
Normally no, you wouldn't really need to drop the forks, but in this case I'd recommend changing both the top and bottom taper bearings, since if the top one is worn, it'll wear the bottom one. So it's best to replace them at the same time for the pennies it'll cost you.
Once the triple clamps are removed you will have greater access at removing the bearing.
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@declan Forks removed from the bike. And the triple clamps removed. From the photo it looks like they're all still in place.
Normally no, you wouldn't really need to drop the forks, but in this case I'd recommend changing both the top and bottom taper bearings, since if the top one is worn, it'll wear the bottom one. So it's best to replace them at the same time for the pennies it'll cost you.
Once the triple clamps are removed you will have greater access at removing the bearing.
wrote on 16 Jul 2018, 14:17 last edited by@calum okay so I haven’t dropped the forks but that wouldn’t stop the bott M yoke from coming off would it? https://imgur.com/a/pfgi7ng
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@calum okay so I haven’t dropped the forks but that wouldn’t stop the bott M yoke from coming off would it? https://imgur.com/a/pfgi7ng
wrote on 16 Jul 2018, 14:22 last edited by@declan Hard to explain the words.
No not really, but if the weight of the forks is not in the same direction as the forks, it'll cause resistance.
Drop the forks mate and go from there. You'll just risk damaging more components otherwise.
Also, put the nut on the triple clamps and protect the threads from the hammer blow.
Better off using a copper mallet to remove that if there is some resistance. Rubber mallet is just absorbing the impact too much. Use penetrating fluids to help remove the item.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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@declan Hard to explain the words.
No not really, but if the weight of the forks is not in the same direction as the forks, it'll cause resistance.
Drop the forks mate and go from there. You'll just risk damaging more components otherwise.
Also, put the nut on the triple clamps and protect the threads from the hammer blow.
Better off using a copper mallet to remove that if there is some resistance. Rubber mallet is just absorbing the impact too much. Use penetrating fluids to help remove the item.
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Never seen that happen, bearing looks ruined. Triples should literally just fall out with lock nut off
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@glynn123 it functions perfect it just had a slight up and down play and yeah it’s in there pretty tight
