So Close!...
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@MadGyver It's good to hear genuine Yamaha parts are reasonably priced in Greece but they can be very expensive here in the UK. The relay arm bearings for example are about £35 each meaning you can have ten from Marksman Industrial for the price of two from Fowlers, and just keep changing them. And they're exactly the same part, just an engineering consumable of Japanese manufacture. Same story with the bushes from Simply Bearings, in fact if you look at the link these are available in widths up to 25mm which give more load-bearing area than the Yamaha items.
The seals from Simply Bearings are also better as they're double lipped with a garter spring (the genuine seals only have a single lip and are much more expensive). This means you can do the seal mod where you flip the seals so the garter spring faces outwards away from the bearing; the lip without the spring is just a dust wiper so you can then cut small sections out of this with Swiss Army Knife scissors (best/sharpest scissors I've ever used) or one of those leather punches so when you re-lube the linkage bearings with a grease gun, the hydraulic pressure is less likely to force the seals out. The grease is free to pass through the gaps in the dust seal lip (now on the inside) and lift up the lip with the garter spring as it moves through the bearing. The sprung lip then retracts, retaining enough grease inside the bearing and keeping dirt out.
If like me you're ham-fisted with the grease gun, it will still try and force out the seals so you can also hacksaw a section out of an M20 washer to make it U-shaped and insert it in the gap between the tiebars and the arm during greasing to prevent this (with the linkage bolted together and the seals where they should be, you can actually move the tiebar/sleeve assembly 2-3mm side to side; useful after you've greased up everything as with the bike on a MX bike stand, you can move it fully each way with light taps from a rubber mallet to make it splodge the excess grease away from the bearings/seals, then clean it all off thoroughly to prevent any getting on the rear tyre).
The cost of living is very high in the UK and the overcharging by some companies is just unreasonable, meaning many people end up adopting a state of mind where they are prepared to go out of their way to avoid giving that particular company or industry any money.
Here is an example; I've developed an interest in restoring mid-2000s mountain bikes because I don't want to buy a new one, and I happen to like 26" wheels and 3x9 transmissions (fun fact: a modern 29" wheel bike with 1x11 transmission gives up 10% climbing ability and 10% top speed compared to my bikes). So this week I found a 2006 S-Works Stumpjumper which has rear suspension which automatically switches between lockout and open. I have some Fox 32 forks which have the same feature, but you can't get parts for them any more because the UK MTB industry is trying to force me to buy a new bike/forks etc. The base valve in the damper has an adjustable blowoff valve with several O-rings I would like to replace whilst servicing the forks, but I don't have the special tool to get this apart and it had been Loctited by the previous owner. After 3 days of thinking it over, I finally managed this last night by gently heating it, then using a strap wrench with a small section of #1500 wet and dry to grip the cylindrical housing without damaging it (it's the thickness of an egg shell). So now I can fully service my 2007 Fox forks, and when they're fitted to this bike I'll be able to tune exactly when both ends change from locked out to open and make the forks and shock match each other, my riding style, weight, favourite trails etc.
Again I'm pleased for you that Yamaha parts are priced fairly where you live but it's not the case here in the UK so you have to wait until it starts raining (as it most assuredly will), go into the shed and get inventive. Just have to measure up the O-rings now which is usually the most difficult part! Cheers bud
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If a drill won’t make a hole, how about a small ‘slot’ with a dremmel cutting wheel? Do you think it would fux up the integrity of the sleeve? I’m inclined to be wanting grease delivered into it, rather than how pretty it looks inside there!
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@SpookDog I think it would affect the structural integrity to be honest, the torque setting for those linkage bolts is about 60Nm so that sleeve is under compression when they're tightened. A round hole is still a stress riser but not quite in the same league as a straight cut.
Easier to find someone on one of the industrial estates who can drill them. Or start by getting this and measuring your old ones, I don't think I ever had to replace one of those sleeves:
Or IIRC genuine ones are about £25 each from Fowlers so if you get all the other bits using the links I posted up, you'll end up with a rear linkage which can be greased externally for 3(£25) + 2(£7) + 6(£3) = £107.00 which is less than the eBay kit. TBH I'd do that, and you'll have enough left over to spend 9 quid on a digital vernier which once you have it, you'll find yourself using every day
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Just an update that things are still going well with the bike. It’s running sweet as nuts!
The one strange thing is that I got so used to riding at 5-6K RPM that I still haven’t taken it over 6K, even though I know it’s sound now! I mean it cruises at 60mph at about 5 ~ 5 & 1/2K! Depending on the windy weather.
I don’t know if I’m being cautious or have developed a fear of the redline!
I keep telling myself that I’m waiting for the dry spring roads and a new set of (non square) tires!…
The clutch cable snapped again after only 8 weeks of use. It’s a Slinky that let go at the nipple. The last one saw me through 2years and 20,000+ miles, go figure!
I’ve got another Slinky and a proper clutch perch to put on. The one that came with the bike isn’t righteous, the lever just doesn’t fit right and it only has one pinch bolt, as well as fouling the grip slightly…I’m neck deep in fitting a new kitchen sink, work surface and tiles, ect to my siss’s kitchen at the moment, as well as building cupboards!
It’s the least I can do, she got me the Dtr when I was down on my arse!…Still haven’t found a dry enough spell to wash and ACF~50 it yet!…
Got to keep busy or go crazy looking at the state of the world!…
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@Calum they’re very hit and miss. I’ve used pattern speedo cables and Rev ones and had no issues. IIRC it’s always the throttle and clutch to watch out for.
@SpookDog glad to hear she’s all going well! Don’t be afraid of cracking the throttle open! One of my favourite memories was when my bike wasn’t running 100% I’d looked at loads of things and couldn’t find the issue I took her out for a ride where I said fuck it went on to the bypass and just held the throttle wide open (after all what’s the worst that can happen). She chugged coughed and splattered for a good minute refusing to Rev past 5/6k then suddenly bang. Off like a fucking rocket. Dont think I’ve ever been caught so off guard. Moral of the story mechanical sympathy is great but you’re doing a two stroke a disservice if you don’t kick its head in occasionally
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@Stevie-Wonder Agreed, it's important to give any two-stroke a good thrash through the gears at least once every time you ride it to blow out all the accumulated gunk.
@SpookDog This splattered jacket business is a timely reminder to get your Autolube pump rebuilt and refitted. As discussed previously, premixing is always a compromise as you're stuck with whatever oil ratio you decide to run at that time regardless of engine speed or riding style. It's fine for competition bikes as they usually spend their time being used for one particular riding style or another so a trials bike spending most of its time at low revs riding over logs and oil drums can get away with 100:1 terpentine, whilst a YZ125 being given the beans everywhere to equal the lap times of a CR500 positively laps up that 35:1 treacle. A two-stroke road bike has a more complex set of requirements, most of the time it's being ridden to Highway Code standard in traffic but sometimes you need to bang it down two gears and pin it to overtake slower vehicles. So the mechanical engine management of Autolube which constantly varies the oil ratio according to how the bike is being ridden at the time equates to a much cleaner running bike and a healthier engine.
If that jacket can be washed without losing its waterproofing properties, it would be a good experiment to do this at the same time as getting your oil pump back on the bike and then seeing if the splattering comes back. IIRC we looked into DT200R vs. DT125R oil delivery rates a few weeks ago and they were found to be virtually the same? Here's a link to the post:
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Cheers bud! I’m sorry, I totally forgot. I’ve been so busy with my Sisters kitchen that I’ve put the Dtr on the back burner!
I haven’t even fitted the new clutch lever&perch and cable. I’ve been using the old frayed one from before…Priorities dictate, Yada ~ Yada, Yada!…
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@Stevie-Wonder Obviously haven't had a two stroke seize on you...
https://youtu.be/g5_A5oi7wC0?si=Nk_odNb7xHzDdZhc&t=36Nasty when this happens and you're on a bend and is very common on two strokes unfortunately.
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@Calum luckily not, I’ve seen videos and learned to ride with my fingers over the clutch just in case, but I’ve never thought about it suddenly happening mid corner.
Oddly enough I see a young guy on an rs extrema, I passed him some compliments then next thing you know hes blapping the throttle going around a tight corner. I could help but think of your comment
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I don’t know if it’s a bad habit or not, but since I had the Dtr’s teething troubles I always ride with my Churchill’s over the clutch, sometimes the brake as well. I have my back brake set so that my foot is comfortably over the pedal…
I’ve had 3 or 4 heat seizures in my time. I’ve always managed to whip in the clutch In time. To the point where I could kick it over straight away afterwards…Used to hover the clutch in a car as well…
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Just fitted the new clutch perch and lever, as well as a new Slinky cable. The action feels like a hot knife and butter now! I never realised how wrong the one it came with was, or how it used to bind…
If I could afford £50 for a genuine clutch cable I would. Or if I had a genuine outer I’d fit a stainless cable and solderless nipple.
The one cable that I will only use genuine is the throttle. My bike came with an aftermarket one and it’s shite. Not so bad if you’re pre mixed but absolutely necessary with auto lube… -
Does anyone think that the position of the front calliper can affect its performance?
I have exactly the same calliper on the front and rear (30mm piston) but the front brake only has 1/3 of the effectiveness of the rear, as far as I know this is totally back to front! The front is normally 70% of the total performance, no?…
I can’t get my head around how woeful the front brake performance is. It makes no sense. They both have Brembo carbon ceramic pads…I really want to find someone who does waterjet cutting, or something similar, to make a rotor that will fit the Dtr’s front hub and take a floating disc from a donor. Whatever size/make that is the most inexpensive/common. Then design an ally mount to couple it with a Brembo 2 piston calliper, or such, that will fit the spoke to disc clearance…
Somebody needs to do a decent affordable upgrade!…
