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DT125R FORUM

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  4. So Close!...

So Close!...

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved DTR
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  • H HOTSHOT III
    18 Mar 2023, 18:53

    @SpookDog said in So Close!...:

    Cheers guy’s! Another question: barrel dowels? Mainly where to purchase them & how much. I could probably make some but would rather use the proper ones. If they don’t fall out I seem to be destined to destroy them 😐 …

    Genuine from Fowlers, get some new cylinder studs/nuts at the same time, some fasteners are worth buying genuine and they're not expensive

    S Offline
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    SpookDog
    wrote on 19 Mar 2023, 13:52 last edited by
    #500

    @HOTSHOT-III

    I’d rather reuse the old ones than use non genuine ones!. I had some shiny ones come with a barrel I brought and they were shite. I sheared one off and it’d only been in a month or two!…

    S 1 Reply Last reply 21 Mar 2023, 18:53
    1
    • S SpookDog
      19 Mar 2023, 13:52

      @HOTSHOT-III

      I’d rather reuse the old ones than use non genuine ones!. I had some shiny ones come with a barrel I brought and they were shite. I sheared one off and it’d only been in a month or two!…

      S Offline
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      SpookDog
      wrote on 21 Mar 2023, 18:53 last edited by
      #501

      Anyone clean the carb bowl and jets without removing the carb? It’s my one pet hate, all the hassle of removing and refitting the carb. Not to mention the potential damage to the rubbers every time you do! I’m wondering if you can empty it then remove the slide and just twist it 45deg to get to the bowl screws and then jets?…
      I’ve got water/crap in my carb yet again 😛
      Time to put the new tap on tonight, I was going to do it this afternoon but a kestrel was eating a pidgeon (sp?) 10 foot away from where I work…

      S 1 Reply Last reply 21 Mar 2023, 21:32
      0
      • S SpookDog
        21 Mar 2023, 18:53

        Anyone clean the carb bowl and jets without removing the carb? It’s my one pet hate, all the hassle of removing and refitting the carb. Not to mention the potential damage to the rubbers every time you do! I’m wondering if you can empty it then remove the slide and just twist it 45deg to get to the bowl screws and then jets?…
        I’ve got water/crap in my carb yet again 😛
        Time to put the new tap on tonight, I was going to do it this afternoon but a kestrel was eating a pidgeon (sp?) 10 foot away from where I work…

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        SpookDog
        wrote on 21 Mar 2023, 21:32 last edited by
        #502

        @SpookDog
        Don’t bother, it doesn’t work. Not enough room to spin it…

        S 1 Reply Last reply 22 Mar 2023, 22:19
        0
        • S SpookDog
          21 Mar 2023, 21:32

          @SpookDog
          Don’t bother, it doesn’t work. Not enough room to spin it…

          S Offline
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          SpookDog
          wrote on 22 Mar 2023, 22:19 last edited by
          #503

          Got my new replacement casing for my lump hammer spat the other night. Managed to get the barrel base studs out after a few try’s and some bloodshed and stuff…

          alt text

          It doesn’t look too bad…

          alt text

          I did manage to break a crescent of ally off that looks like it retains oil though 😐 always something…

          alt text

          I wish I knew a Tig welder!…

          S 1 Reply Last reply 22 Mar 2023, 22:24
          0
          • S SpookDog
            22 Mar 2023, 22:19

            Got my new replacement casing for my lump hammer spat the other night. Managed to get the barrel base studs out after a few try’s and some bloodshed and stuff…

            alt text

            It doesn’t look too bad…

            alt text

            I did manage to break a crescent of ally off that looks like it retains oil though 😐 always something…

            alt text

            I wish I knew a Tig welder!…

            S Offline
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            SpookDog
            wrote on 22 Mar 2023, 22:24 last edited by
            #504

            PS The cheap blind bearing puller I got from fleaBay for £12 works really well. It removed the two needle bearings and the awkward balancer shaft bearing nicely.
            Got a new input shaft needle bearing ordered (£30!) and just need the size of the clutch actuator needle bearing now so that I can order it…

            C 1 Reply Last reply 24 Mar 2023, 07:46
            0
            • S SpookDog
              22 Mar 2023, 22:24

              PS The cheap blind bearing puller I got from fleaBay for £12 works really well. It removed the two needle bearings and the awkward balancer shaft bearing nicely.
              Got a new input shaft needle bearing ordered (£30!) and just need the size of the clutch actuator needle bearing now so that I can order it…

              C Offline
              C Offline
              Calum
              wrote on 24 Mar 2023, 07:46 last edited by
              #505

              @SpookDog ouch 😕

              Always Originate, Never Pirate!

              S 1 Reply Last reply 24 Mar 2023, 15:56
              0
              • C Calum
                24 Mar 2023, 07:46

                @SpookDog ouch 😕

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                SpookDog
                wrote on 24 Mar 2023, 15:56 last edited by
                #506

                @Calum
                I’m such a martyr 😛 …

                I can’t believe the input shaft needle/roller bearing turned up today already! I just wish we had better weather. Cleaning up the casings & gubbins is bad enough, but trying to build anything on a windy day is a nightmare. Crap flying everywhere! Actually, I wish I had a workshop, or a shed even 🙂 …

                S 1 Reply Last reply 25 Mar 2023, 14:03
                0
                • S SpookDog
                  24 Mar 2023, 15:56

                  @Calum
                  I’m such a martyr 😛 …

                  I can’t believe the input shaft needle/roller bearing turned up today already! I just wish we had better weather. Cleaning up the casings & gubbins is bad enough, but trying to build anything on a windy day is a nightmare. Crap flying everywhere! Actually, I wish I had a workshop, or a shed even 🙂 …

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                  SpookDog
                  wrote on 25 Mar 2023, 14:03 last edited by
                  #507

                  Sweet! Found out that PJME has finished my rebores, I got my MB3p barrel done (as well as the original) to go on the Tzr that I kinda forgot about 🙂 I’ll get them Tuesday…

                  S 1 Reply Last reply 26 Mar 2023, 20:36
                  0
                  • S SpookDog
                    25 Mar 2023, 14:03

                    Sweet! Found out that PJME has finished my rebores, I got my MB3p barrel done (as well as the original) to go on the Tzr that I kinda forgot about 🙂 I’ll get them Tuesday…

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                    SpookDog
                    wrote on 26 Mar 2023, 20:36 last edited by
                    #508

                    Has anyone ever dismantled the reservoir outlet on a rear master cylinder before? I’ve tried a couple but they won’t budge and I don’t want to break the plastic tube. I’ve found replacement kits for them so they must come out!…

                    H 1 Reply Last reply 27 Mar 2023, 07:55
                    0
                    • S SpookDog
                      26 Mar 2023, 20:36

                      Has anyone ever dismantled the reservoir outlet on a rear master cylinder before? I’ve tried a couple but they won’t budge and I don’t want to break the plastic tube. I’ve found replacement kits for them so they must come out!…

                      H Offline
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                      HOTSHOT III
                      wrote on 27 Mar 2023, 07:55 last edited by
                      #509

                      @SpookDog They do come apart, and the O-ring and circlip are less than £1 genuine from Fowlers. The trouble is DOT brake fluid doesn't contain a corrosion inhibitor, meaning crustyness builds up around the O-ring and where the plastic elbow fits in to the m/cyl (it's worth replacing this as well). They're always difficult to remove so you have to be gentle if you want to save the elbow, and expect where the O-ring fits to look like an STD clinic once you get it apart. The holes for the fluid to keep the m/cyl piston fed are like pin holes so make sure they're clear. This is why one-piece front master cylinders get all scabby around the cap over time.

                      I just bought a used mountain bike to restore which had Avid disc brakes (DOT4 fluid) and these are in the same state, whereas Shimano brakes use mineral oil fluid (same chemical base as baby oil) and you can run them for years without the pistons seizing or corrosion building up. In fact one of the YouTube MTB channels fitted a brand new set of Shimano brakes to a test bike, left the front alone and re-bled the rear with baby oil, ran them for a year, then stripped them and measured every component. They reported no difference in brake performance or component wear between the front and rear brakes. You can't run mineral oil fluid in a DOT fluid brake though, otherwise I'd have changed all my DTR brakes over!

                      https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63VIuPiX3CA

                      I also like to replace the tube between the m/cyl and reservoir when doing these as they often get overlooked and the stock tube swells up over time. This is no longer available from Yamaha and as DOT brake fluid is a solvent, you can't just use any old length of fuel line etc. I used Tygon 2375 tube off eBay:

                      https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121518690884

                      I've always found the Yambits master cylinder kit to be good for the rear on the DTR, and they also sell the round rubber membrane which fits in the rear reservoir.

                      If you want to rebuild your rear caliper though, I'd go with a genuine piston and seal kit. The eBay ones are cheaper but the fluid seal has a slightly smaller cross-section which allows fluid to leak past it! I fitted a set to a sub-6000 mile French import with calipers in good condition even before I stripped and cleaned them and noticed a dribble of fluid on the pad backplate during bleeding. Wiped it off and it came back several times, so to get me out of a jam (summer evening) I refitted the old OEM seals which cured it. Bought a genuine set shortly afterwards and had no more issues. And the piston DOES fit into the caliper with the closed end facing outwards like in the Haynes/Yamaha parts schematic; it's the same rear brake as the '88 YZ125 and this is to stop the inside of the piston filling with mud.

                      I feel like I've gone full Hermione Grainger writing this but for something which looks simple, the DTR rear brake is one of the biggest PITA jobs I've ever had to do. Once it's right though it works very well.

                      S 1 Reply Last reply 27 Mar 2023, 17:54
                      2
                      • H HOTSHOT III
                        27 Mar 2023, 07:55

                        @SpookDog They do come apart, and the O-ring and circlip are less than £1 genuine from Fowlers. The trouble is DOT brake fluid doesn't contain a corrosion inhibitor, meaning crustyness builds up around the O-ring and where the plastic elbow fits in to the m/cyl (it's worth replacing this as well). They're always difficult to remove so you have to be gentle if you want to save the elbow, and expect where the O-ring fits to look like an STD clinic once you get it apart. The holes for the fluid to keep the m/cyl piston fed are like pin holes so make sure they're clear. This is why one-piece front master cylinders get all scabby around the cap over time.

                        I just bought a used mountain bike to restore which had Avid disc brakes (DOT4 fluid) and these are in the same state, whereas Shimano brakes use mineral oil fluid (same chemical base as baby oil) and you can run them for years without the pistons seizing or corrosion building up. In fact one of the YouTube MTB channels fitted a brand new set of Shimano brakes to a test bike, left the front alone and re-bled the rear with baby oil, ran them for a year, then stripped them and measured every component. They reported no difference in brake performance or component wear between the front and rear brakes. You can't run mineral oil fluid in a DOT fluid brake though, otherwise I'd have changed all my DTR brakes over!

                        https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=63VIuPiX3CA

                        I also like to replace the tube between the m/cyl and reservoir when doing these as they often get overlooked and the stock tube swells up over time. This is no longer available from Yamaha and as DOT brake fluid is a solvent, you can't just use any old length of fuel line etc. I used Tygon 2375 tube off eBay:

                        https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/121518690884

                        I've always found the Yambits master cylinder kit to be good for the rear on the DTR, and they also sell the round rubber membrane which fits in the rear reservoir.

                        If you want to rebuild your rear caliper though, I'd go with a genuine piston and seal kit. The eBay ones are cheaper but the fluid seal has a slightly smaller cross-section which allows fluid to leak past it! I fitted a set to a sub-6000 mile French import with calipers in good condition even before I stripped and cleaned them and noticed a dribble of fluid on the pad backplate during bleeding. Wiped it off and it came back several times, so to get me out of a jam (summer evening) I refitted the old OEM seals which cured it. Bought a genuine set shortly afterwards and had no more issues. And the piston DOES fit into the caliper with the closed end facing outwards like in the Haynes/Yamaha parts schematic; it's the same rear brake as the '88 YZ125 and this is to stop the inside of the piston filling with mud.

                        I feel like I've gone full Hermione Grainger writing this but for something which looks simple, the DTR rear brake is one of the biggest PITA jobs I've ever had to do. Once it's right though it works very well.

                        S Offline
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                        SpookDog
                        wrote on 27 Mar 2023, 17:54 last edited by SpookDog
                        #510

                        @HOTSHOT-III

                        Do you know of a good place to get the elbow? Only one that I’ve found is in France…

                        I found bleeding the front brake in to be the biggest PitA! 😛 …

                        Are you 100% about the orientation of the piston? I questioned it the first time I did them and wasn’t sure. Everyone told me it was ‘base in’ IIRC?…

                        PS: Does anyone have any decent tips on bleeding in the front brakes? I’ve got a cheap vacuum pump that I’ve been using, but I still don’t think it’s right…
                        I’ve even thought of laying the bike down on it’s side! It’s just getting the reservoir level! 😛 …

                        H 1 Reply Last reply 27 Mar 2023, 18:47
                        0
                        • S SpookDog
                          27 Mar 2023, 17:54

                          @HOTSHOT-III

                          Do you know of a good place to get the elbow? Only one that I’ve found is in France…

                          I found bleeding the front brake in to be the biggest PitA! 😛 …

                          Are you 100% about the orientation of the piston? I questioned it the first time I did them and wasn’t sure. Everyone told me it was ‘base in’ IIRC?…

                          PS: Does anyone have any decent tips on bleeding in the front brakes? I’ve got a cheap vacuum pump that I’ve been using, but I still don’t think it’s right…
                          I’ve even thought of laying the bike down on it’s side! It’s just getting the reservoir level! 😛 …

                          H Offline
                          H Offline
                          HOTSHOT III
                          wrote on 27 Mar 2023, 18:47 last edited by HOTSHOT III
                          #511

                          @SpookDog I think every time I bought one of those elbows I just got it from Fowlers. Also try cmsnl.com in Holland though.

                          All the schematics I've seen have the rear piston with the closed end facing outwards towards the pads, there was a discussion on one of the FB groups the other day and someone noticed the open end of the OEM piston is bevelled slightly, presumably to lessen the chance of catching the seals during installation. It is unusual but Yamaha have gone out of their way to show the closed end of the piston facing outwards, and the mud issue is the only reason I can think of.

                          Yes bleeding the front brake is difficult. I've had some success back-bleeding from the bleed nipple upwards using a syringe (keep an eye on the reservoir level) which just leaves you with a little bit of air behind the caliper piston above where the fluid enters the caliper and this can just be bled out conventionally (i.e from the m/cyl downwards) last thing.

                          And vacuum pumps yes, I've never tried one but Jennies Garage on YouTube used a pump from one of those hand soap dispensers to do the rear brake on a Kawasaki KLR250-looking thing:

                          https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1ddFwEkn3E&t=522s

                          Get a MX bike stand to get the res level, it makes everything easier like doing the chain, gearbox oil etc. Or make one out of wood, it only needs to be a plywood box with a bit of carpet etc. on the top to protect the frame underneath.

                          S 1 Reply Last reply 27 Mar 2023, 19:09
                          0
                          • H HOTSHOT III
                            27 Mar 2023, 18:47

                            @SpookDog I think every time I bought one of those elbows I just got it from Fowlers. Also try cmsnl.com in Holland though.

                            All the schematics I've seen have the rear piston with the closed end facing outwards towards the pads, there was a discussion on one of the FB groups the other day and someone noticed the open end of the OEM piston is bevelled slightly, presumably to lessen the chance of catching the seals during installation. It is unusual but Yamaha have gone out of their way to show the closed end of the piston facing outwards, and the mud issue is the only reason I can think of.

                            Yes bleeding the front brake is difficult. I've had some success back-bleeding from the bleed nipple upwards using a syringe (keep an eye on the reservoir level) which just leaves you with a little bit of air behind the caliper piston above where the fluid enters the caliper and this can just be bled out conventionally (i.e from the m/cyl downwards) last thing.

                            And vacuum pumps yes, I've never tried one but Jennies Garage on YouTube used a pump from one of those hand soap dispensers to do the rear brake on a Kawasaki KLR250-looking thing:

                            https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1ddFwEkn3E&t=522s

                            Get a MX bike stand to get the res level, it makes everything easier like doing the chain, gearbox oil etc. Or make one out of wood, it only needs to be a plywood box with a bit of carpet etc. on the top to protect the frame underneath.

                            S Offline
                            S Offline
                            SpookDog
                            wrote on 27 Mar 2023, 19:09 last edited by SpookDog
                            #512

                            @HOTSHOT-III

                            Cheers bud! The vacuum pump kit has a few different fittings. One of them is a rubber do-da that looks like it’ll allow you to suck fluid up into the reservoir while feeding it via the bleed niple. Only problem is getting it airtight. Making sure the tubing is tight, also no sucking air past the threads! (Red rubber grease on them I recon)…

                            I’ve never known another bike that won’t push the air down & out like the Dtr! I think air contamination is the biggest problem with ‘Dtr poor front brake syndrome’ . The rear brake is fine once bled, locks up easily if you’re so inclined 🙂 …

                            Another question! Does everyone else suffer from ‘headlight dim’ as much as me?! Every time that the brake lights go on, or indicators, or even the horn! The lights dim badly! I don’t understand why battery powered ancileries should affect them the way it does…
                            I’m running a 6Ah fully charged gel battery as well! If it’s normal with all the early (1988~96) bikes then fair enough. It just doesn’t seem right though. I’ve had scoots with 6V electrics that never did this!…

                            I read somewhere that you can rewind the lighting coil to produce different amps, volts, ect by using finer wire?…

                            S 1 Reply Last reply 27 Mar 2023, 19:47
                            0
                            • S SpookDog
                              27 Mar 2023, 19:09

                              @HOTSHOT-III

                              Cheers bud! The vacuum pump kit has a few different fittings. One of them is a rubber do-da that looks like it’ll allow you to suck fluid up into the reservoir while feeding it via the bleed niple. Only problem is getting it airtight. Making sure the tubing is tight, also no sucking air past the threads! (Red rubber grease on them I recon)…

                              I’ve never known another bike that won’t push the air down & out like the Dtr! I think air contamination is the biggest problem with ‘Dtr poor front brake syndrome’ . The rear brake is fine once bled, locks up easily if you’re so inclined 🙂 …

                              Another question! Does everyone else suffer from ‘headlight dim’ as much as me?! Every time that the brake lights go on, or indicators, or even the horn! The lights dim badly! I don’t understand why battery powered ancileries should affect them the way it does…
                              I’m running a 6Ah fully charged gel battery as well! If it’s normal with all the early (1988~96) bikes then fair enough. It just doesn’t seem right though. I’ve had scoots with 6V electrics that never did this!…

                              I read somewhere that you can rewind the lighting coil to produce different amps, volts, ect by using finer wire?…

                              S Offline
                              S Offline
                              SpookDog
                              wrote on 27 Mar 2023, 19:47 last edited by SpookDog
                              #513

                              PS: I found the master cylinder plastic outlet on Fowlers, cheers bud! I broke the one on my 14mm replacement. It was as clean as a whores whistle inside though! It has a black plastic/paint coating on the whole inside that looks like it inhibits corrosion and is super slippery to help the piston rubbers. I’ll show some pics when I can…

                              alt text

                              alt text

                              Pics!…

                              H 1 Reply Last reply 27 Mar 2023, 21:09
                              0
                              • S SpookDog
                                27 Mar 2023, 19:47

                                PS: I found the master cylinder plastic outlet on Fowlers, cheers bud! I broke the one on my 14mm replacement. It was as clean as a whores whistle inside though! It has a black plastic/paint coating on the whole inside that looks like it inhibits corrosion and is super slippery to help the piston rubbers. I’ll show some pics when I can…

                                alt text

                                alt text

                                Pics!…

                                H Offline
                                H Offline
                                HOTSHOT III
                                wrote on 27 Mar 2023, 21:09 last edited by HOTSHOT III
                                #514

                                @SpookDog No worries 👍

                                That 14mm m/cyl does look clean inside so I guess it is some kind of anti-corrosion coating.

                                All the early DTRs I've owned have dimmed the lights like that when the brake light, horn, indicators are used, it's never done any harm even when running a 100/80W bulb so I think it's normal. Here's a pic of the 3NC wiring diagram, as you can see the AC side (headlight/taillight/side light/instrument illumination) and the DC side (everything else) share a common earth. Not only that but the yellow/red (main feed from the stator to the lights) also branches off into the regulator/rectifier where it comes out as DC (red wire) to charge the battery. So I suppose when you operate a DC ancillary, the battery voltage drops under load meaning it pulls a bigger share of the current ultimately from the stator via the yellow/red and white wires, which causes a volt drop across the lights?

                                This is only a guess really as electrics have never been my strong suit; any auto electricians on here I'll bow to their superior knowledge. IIRC the DTR stator has a source coil (powers the CDI unit, not the same as the pulse coil outside the flywheel which sends it a signal every crank revolution), lighting coil and a charging coil so in theory the charging and lights shouldn't interfere with one another but if that's the case, why does the yellow/red wire also go through the reg/rect? It doesn't have any other purpose apart from powering the AC lights. And it's a very unusual system generally, normally dirt bikes have AC lighting so they don't need a heavy battery and road bikes power everything from the DC reg/rect output so combining them like that is strange. Personally I like it as you can run high wattage headlight bulbs in the stock light without flattening the battery which you can't do even on some bigger bikes.

                                alt text

                                S 1 Reply Last reply 28 Mar 2023, 13:19
                                0
                                • H HOTSHOT III
                                  27 Mar 2023, 21:09

                                  @SpookDog No worries 👍

                                  That 14mm m/cyl does look clean inside so I guess it is some kind of anti-corrosion coating.

                                  All the early DTRs I've owned have dimmed the lights like that when the brake light, horn, indicators are used, it's never done any harm even when running a 100/80W bulb so I think it's normal. Here's a pic of the 3NC wiring diagram, as you can see the AC side (headlight/taillight/side light/instrument illumination) and the DC side (everything else) share a common earth. Not only that but the yellow/red (main feed from the stator to the lights) also branches off into the regulator/rectifier where it comes out as DC (red wire) to charge the battery. So I suppose when you operate a DC ancillary, the battery voltage drops under load meaning it pulls a bigger share of the current ultimately from the stator via the yellow/red and white wires, which causes a volt drop across the lights?

                                  This is only a guess really as electrics have never been my strong suit; any auto electricians on here I'll bow to their superior knowledge. IIRC the DTR stator has a source coil (powers the CDI unit, not the same as the pulse coil outside the flywheel which sends it a signal every crank revolution), lighting coil and a charging coil so in theory the charging and lights shouldn't interfere with one another but if that's the case, why does the yellow/red wire also go through the reg/rect? It doesn't have any other purpose apart from powering the AC lights. And it's a very unusual system generally, normally dirt bikes have AC lighting so they don't need a heavy battery and road bikes power everything from the DC reg/rect output so combining them like that is strange. Personally I like it as you can run high wattage headlight bulbs in the stock light without flattening the battery which you can't do even on some bigger bikes.

                                  alt text

                                  S Offline
                                  S Offline
                                  SpookDog
                                  wrote on 28 Mar 2023, 13:19 last edited by SpookDog
                                  #515

                                  @HOTSHOT-III
                                  That is pretty much what I thought. I wonder if a diode somewhere would stop it happening. It can get quite hairy on dark night when your beam brightness halves!….

                                  Yeah charging, lighting & ignition coils…

                                  S 1 Reply Last reply 29 Mar 2023, 12:38
                                  1
                                  • S SpookDog
                                    28 Mar 2023, 13:19

                                    @HOTSHOT-III
                                    That is pretty much what I thought. I wonder if a diode somewhere would stop it happening. It can get quite hairy on dark night when your beam brightness halves!….

                                    Yeah charging, lighting & ignition coils…

                                    S Offline
                                    S Offline
                                    SpookDog
                                    wrote on 29 Mar 2023, 12:38 last edited by
                                    #516

                                    Interesting to see a diagram with the power valve servo on it!…

                                    One thing I’ve never been able to find on any wiring diagram is the two relay type boxes that I have under my seat. I imagine that they are both to do with the side stand switch ~ ignition cut-out. I’m kinda scared to touch them! I don’t have a side stand switch fitted on my bike (deleted by previous) and I don’t have a clutch switch either (electric start only?) so I’ve never been able to work out what they both do…

                                    On bikes with the side stand switch connected, can you start the engine with the stand down or not? Or does the cutout ‘activate’ when a gear is selected (neutral switch is diss-engaged)?…

                                    S 1 Reply Last reply 29 Mar 2023, 18:46
                                    0
                                    • S SpookDog
                                      29 Mar 2023, 12:38

                                      Interesting to see a diagram with the power valve servo on it!…

                                      One thing I’ve never been able to find on any wiring diagram is the two relay type boxes that I have under my seat. I imagine that they are both to do with the side stand switch ~ ignition cut-out. I’m kinda scared to touch them! I don’t have a side stand switch fitted on my bike (deleted by previous) and I don’t have a clutch switch either (electric start only?) so I’ve never been able to work out what they both do…

                                      On bikes with the side stand switch connected, can you start the engine with the stand down or not? Or does the cutout ‘activate’ when a gear is selected (neutral switch is diss-engaged)?…

                                      S Offline
                                      S Offline
                                      SpookDog
                                      wrote on 29 Mar 2023, 18:46 last edited by
                                      #517

                                      Just drilled and threaded a broken stud on the replacement casing I got (the one that tried to cut off my middle finger removing the barrel base studs!) and have since discovered that two of the threads around the crank , that join the casings are stripped! I thought it was just old silicunt sealant in them, but it turns out that you can get these plastic inserts that are kinda like rawplugs!…

                                      OMFDaze! 😵‍💫 …

                                      CalumC 1 Reply Last reply 29 Mar 2023, 19:19
                                      0
                                      • S SpookDog
                                        29 Mar 2023, 18:46

                                        Just drilled and threaded a broken stud on the replacement casing I got (the one that tried to cut off my middle finger removing the barrel base studs!) and have since discovered that two of the threads around the crank , that join the casings are stripped! I thought it was just old silicunt sealant in them, but it turns out that you can get these plastic inserts that are kinda like rawplugs!…

                                        OMFDaze! 😵‍💫 …

                                        CalumC Offline
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                                        Calum
                                        wrote on 29 Mar 2023, 19:19 last edited by
                                        #518

                                        @SpookDog 🤦 damn, that's annoying.

                                        Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                                          SpookDog
                                          wrote on 31 Mar 2023, 17:14 last edited by SpookDog
                                          #519

                                          #meormyschizophrenicshadow?!…

                                          Is it just me Callum, or has the format of the site changed again?…

                                          I preferred the old look & stuff…

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                                          27 Mar 2023, 07:55


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