So Close!...
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@SpookDog No worries
That 14mm m/cyl does look clean inside so I guess it is some kind of anti-corrosion coating.
All the early DTRs I've owned have dimmed the lights like that when the brake light, horn, indicators are used, it's never done any harm even when running a 100/80W bulb so I think it's normal. Here's a pic of the 3NC wiring diagram, as you can see the AC side (headlight/taillight/side light/instrument illumination) and the DC side (everything else) share a common earth. Not only that but the yellow/red (main feed from the stator to the lights) also branches off into the regulator/rectifier where it comes out as DC (red wire) to charge the battery. So I suppose when you operate a DC ancillary, the battery voltage drops under load meaning it pulls a bigger share of the current ultimately from the stator via the yellow/red and white wires, which causes a volt drop across the lights?
This is only a guess really as electrics have never been my strong suit; any auto electricians on here I'll bow to their superior knowledge. IIRC the DTR stator has a source coil (powers the CDI unit, not the same as the pulse coil outside the flywheel which sends it a signal every crank revolution), lighting coil and a charging coil so in theory the charging and lights shouldn't interfere with one another but if that's the case, why does the yellow/red wire also go through the reg/rect? It doesn't have any other purpose apart from powering the AC lights. And it's a very unusual system generally, normally dirt bikes have AC lighting so they don't need a heavy battery and road bikes power everything from the DC reg/rect output so combining them like that is strange. Personally I like it as you can run high wattage headlight bulbs in the stock light without flattening the battery which you can't do even on some bigger bikes.
wrote on 28 Mar 2023, 13:19 last edited by SpookDog@HOTSHOT-III
That is pretty much what I thought. I wonder if a diode somewhere would stop it happening. It can get quite hairy on dark night when your beam brightness halves!….Yeah charging, lighting & ignition coils…
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@HOTSHOT-III
That is pretty much what I thought. I wonder if a diode somewhere would stop it happening. It can get quite hairy on dark night when your beam brightness halves!….Yeah charging, lighting & ignition coils…
wrote on 29 Mar 2023, 12:38 last edited byInteresting to see a diagram with the power valve servo on it!…
One thing I’ve never been able to find on any wiring diagram is the two relay type boxes that I have under my seat. I imagine that they are both to do with the side stand switch ~ ignition cut-out. I’m kinda scared to touch them! I don’t have a side stand switch fitted on my bike (deleted by previous) and I don’t have a clutch switch either (electric start only?) so I’ve never been able to work out what they both do…
On bikes with the side stand switch connected, can you start the engine with the stand down or not? Or does the cutout ‘activate’ when a gear is selected (neutral switch is diss-engaged)?…
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Interesting to see a diagram with the power valve servo on it!…
One thing I’ve never been able to find on any wiring diagram is the two relay type boxes that I have under my seat. I imagine that they are both to do with the side stand switch ~ ignition cut-out. I’m kinda scared to touch them! I don’t have a side stand switch fitted on my bike (deleted by previous) and I don’t have a clutch switch either (electric start only?) so I’ve never been able to work out what they both do…
On bikes with the side stand switch connected, can you start the engine with the stand down or not? Or does the cutout ‘activate’ when a gear is selected (neutral switch is diss-engaged)?…
wrote on 29 Mar 2023, 18:46 last edited byJust drilled and threaded a broken stud on the replacement casing I got (the one that tried to cut off my middle finger removing the barrel base studs!) and have since discovered that two of the threads around the crank , that join the casings are stripped! I thought it was just old silicunt sealant in them, but it turns out that you can get these plastic inserts that are kinda like rawplugs!…
OMFDaze!
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Just drilled and threaded a broken stud on the replacement casing I got (the one that tried to cut off my middle finger removing the barrel base studs!) and have since discovered that two of the threads around the crank , that join the casings are stripped! I thought it was just old silicunt sealant in them, but it turns out that you can get these plastic inserts that are kinda like rawplugs!…
OMFDaze!
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wrote on 31 Mar 2023, 17:14 last edited by SpookDog
#meormyschizophrenicshadow?!…
Is it just me Callum, or has the format of the site changed again?…
I preferred the old look & stuff…
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wrote on 31 Mar 2023, 17:16 last edited by
#meormyschizophrenicshadow
Is it just me Callum, or has the format of the site changed again?
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#meormyschizophrenicshadow
Is it just me Callum, or has the format of the site changed again?
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#meormyschizophrenicshadow
Is it just me Callum, or has the format of the site changed again?
wrote on 31 Mar 2023, 18:43 last edited by@SpookDog What do you mean again?
It's only changed the once in the entire time I've hosted it.
I bumped the software from 2.X.X to 3.X.X (it's been on 2.X.X for many years).
Along with the software bump I have swapped out the theme, this seemed a bit more mobile friendly.
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wrote on 31 Mar 2023, 18:57 last edited by
Yeah. To you, I’ve seen more changes as my ‘platform’ became unsupported and buttons and options like the for sale stuff disappeared. It’s just good to know it’s on your end, not mine. Serious
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wrote on 31 Mar 2023, 19:38 last edited by Calum
Yeah, ideally you'd clear your computers cache settings as it does try to be clever and preserve the last theme from a specific software version. This causes problems where by the code has changed, but your browser has cached certain parts of the website, resulting in a conflict of information. It should fix itself when the cache expires.
The main thing is we've moved to Bootstrap 5 now.
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wrote on 3 Apr 2023, 07:02 last edited by
@Calum , since the format changed I've not been receiving notifications about unread posts/reactions to replies etc. Is there something I can change on my PC to sort this? Still running Windows 7 so as you can imagine I'm sat here jumping on my stove pipe hat like an irate Victorian railway engineer.
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@Calum , since the format changed I've not been receiving notifications about unread posts/reactions to replies etc. Is there something I can change on my PC to sort this? Still running Windows 7 so as you can imagine I'm sat here jumping on my stove pipe hat like an irate Victorian railway engineer.
wrote on 3 Apr 2023, 07:23 last edited by@HOTSHOT-III So long as you are using a modern browser and not Internet Explorer you should be fine. Try clearing the browsers cache.
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@HOTSHOT-III So long as you are using a modern browser and not Internet Explorer you should be fine. Try clearing the browsers cache.
wrote on 3 Apr 2023, 08:34 last edited by@Calum It's working now, very strange as I've been keeping an eye on it since my TSE250 engine thread the other day. Maybe it just took your reply this morning for my software to recognise it. Anyway thanks for responding
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wrote on 3 Apr 2023, 19:05 last edited by SpookDog 4 Mar 2023, 20:12
Any of you arcane knowledged fuxors out there know where to get hold of the kind of seals needed to rebuild a rear shock? I know that they are specialised & not ‘mainstream’, but I know they are made and available to people (especially in the business) if you know where to look. Anyone know where to look?…
Ta!…PS can anybod tell me what the process is called where you cut metal with a water jet? Or even the plasma (maybe?) technique? I’d like to find out about cutting sheet stainless or high carbon steel sheet …
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wrote on 5 Apr 2023, 14:59 last edited by
Got a bargain £32.50 crank from fleabay! It looks like it’s been cleaned (acid) before having a new conrod fitted! I’ve never seen a crank with so little play, even side to side
have everything new now apart from the clutch actuator bearing, which I’m going to fit a good used one to unless anyone knows the size?…
PS how to load pics? I have no button or options… -
wrote on 5 Apr 2023, 16:18 last edited by
You just do the same as you always do, but by default the "advanced" editor is hidden. But it's just Markdown so you just write it inline
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You just do the same as you always do, but by default the "advanced" editor is hidden. But it's just Markdown so you just write it inline
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Cheers bud!
WTF? It’s in the top banner above the ‘typing area’ now!
I must of been using the quick post option…
wrote on 5 Apr 2023, 17:38 last edited byJust try to buy a set of early matching casings for the engine build. The serial number is some zeros that end in 654. So I’m guessing that they’re quite early!
Wish me luck!! -
wrote on 5 Apr 2023, 20:09 last edited by
Crank looks good bud, what's the crank float on it?
Are the threads intact?
Do you know what rod has been used?
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wrote on 5 Apr 2023, 21:13 last edited by SpookDog 4 May 2023, 22:15
Rod has 2rh on it like a standard one (?)…
Threads are good, there’s just a bit of a ‘knurled’ over end on the inside of the hollow bit on the stator side. Someone hammered on it (a bit) in the past…
It doesn’t float, it sank when I put it in a bucket of water
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Sorry! It’s virtually nothing. I’ll measure it later when I’m sober 🥴 but it’s tight…I noticed the two heat spots on the topside of where the centre pin is and thought it had work done on it. I don’t know whether they heat the sides to split the crank or assemble it, I’m guessing they split it. The spots look well defined so I thought it was someone who knew what they were doing. Hopefully!
…But seriously it looks good. About time I had some good luck
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damn, that's annoying.