So Close!...
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@SpookDog Nah, it's only images that are a pain.
Just don't 100% rely on this data always being here. It wouldn't take a lot for us to lose a months data as I only do back-ups adhoc.
wrote on 1 Jul 2023, 12:08 last edited by SpookDog 7 Jan 2023, 13:08@Calum
No worries! It is a real life saver at times though. My memory is FUBAR since I was about 45…How come I’ve never heard of ACF-50 before? The spray and the corrosion block grease. Stuff sounds amazing!…
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@Calum
No worries! It is a real life saver at times though. My memory is FUBAR since I was about 45…How come I’ve never heard of ACF-50 before? The spray and the corrosion block grease. Stuff sounds amazing!…
wrote on 26 Jul 2023, 10:40 last edited by SpookDogWow, this place is less active than my sex life!
…Ahem! I’m @39250 miles without being stranded at roadside! Was @14500’ish when I first got the basket case Considering all the problems I’ve had to learn through, it’s not bad…
Desperately want to build the new engine but have been busy doing diy for my sis’s gaff (Almost finished building the newish gates) Managed to squeeze in preparing the new cases for welding, removing bearings and studs. Apart from the clutch side barrel studs, which are the fuxing worst! Soon as the gates are hung I can start again on the motobicyclette
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wrote on 26 Jul 2023, 10:59 last edited by
Yeah mental isn't it. Really seems to have gone quiet as of late. That's no dramas anyway.
Wow, you're mental. In 15 years I haven't done anywhere near as much mileage as that. I just don't get it. I am sure it's bottom end rebuild time at 30k miles lol. So you don't half rinse the mileage.
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Wow, this place is less active than my sex life!
…Ahem! I’m @39250 miles without being stranded at roadside! Was @14500’ish when I first got the basket case Considering all the problems I’ve had to learn through, it’s not bad…
Desperately want to build the new engine but have been busy doing diy for my sis’s gaff (Almost finished building the newish gates) Managed to squeeze in preparing the new cases for welding, removing bearings and studs. Apart from the clutch side barrel studs, which are the fuxing worst! Soon as the gates are hung I can start again on the motobicyclette
wrote on 26 Jul 2023, 16:30 last edited by@SpookDog I had trouble with the clutch side cylinder studs, I think it's because the gap between the stud and locating dowel provides extra space/surface area for corrosion to do its dirty work. Lots of people attack the dowels with Mole grips which usually just makes a sharp-edged mess. In the end I got a small piece of 6mm aluminium, drilled a hole in it the same size as the dowel OD, then made a hacksaw cut from the outside edge to the hole so it could snugly fit over the dowel. Then you can clamp Mole grips on the aluminium so it grips the dowel right around its circumference (a bit of valve grinding paste helps here) without deforming it and you can rotate it to get it out. Still needed plenty of PlusGas though and I bought new studs and dowels.
After that I attacked the space between the dowel hole and stud with a wire brush to get rid of all the scabbiness and heated up the case so the PlusGas fizzed and bubbled and eventually the studs moved. Very time-consuming but you only get one chance with these!
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I’m going to be doing electrolysis on my petrol tank in the very near future. Just wondering if anyone has done it before? Should be fun
wondering if I can put POR15 straight onto the metal after, or whether it’ll still need to be ‘etched’I’m guessing that surface area will be king when it comes to the sacrificial anode? Any ideas what to use? Those old steel combs?…
A length of old shock spring?
wrote on 27 Jul 2023, 09:32 last edited by@SpookDog
I wouldn’t go with POR-15 for the tank sealer, it’s only a single part product and doesn’t hold that long even with the best prep.
I went with Caswell it’s a USA brand but they stock it here in the UK. It’s 2 part epoxy resin and good for all ethanol so will work with the E10 if you need to put it in.It also seals pin holes in the tank very well,
I filled my tank with pure white vinegar from the shops that I got for 25p to the brim and left it for 2 days, give it a shake every now and then.
After that rinse with hose pipe to clean out then let dry. Get some 99% pure acetone or best you can get and poor that in around 5L and give it a good shake then drain and leave in sun to dry. Then you are ready for mixing up and pouring in, got to be bone dry before you add the stuff. I’ve got some pictures of my tank I’ll add -
@SpookDog I had trouble with the clutch side cylinder studs, I think it's because the gap between the stud and locating dowel provides extra space/surface area for corrosion to do its dirty work. Lots of people attack the dowels with Mole grips which usually just makes a sharp-edged mess. In the end I got a small piece of 6mm aluminium, drilled a hole in it the same size as the dowel OD, then made a hacksaw cut from the outside edge to the hole so it could snugly fit over the dowel. Then you can clamp Mole grips on the aluminium so it grips the dowel right around its circumference (a bit of valve grinding paste helps here) without deforming it and you can rotate it to get it out. Still needed plenty of PlusGas though and I bought new studs and dowels.
After that I attacked the space between the dowel hole and stud with a wire brush to get rid of all the scabbiness and heated up the case so the PlusGas fizzed and bubbled and eventually the studs moved. Very time-consuming but you only get one chance with these!
wrote on 30 Jul 2023, 19:01 last edited by SpookDogDo you have the tools to check the runoff of a crank? (Or know a local workshop?)…
I really need to check my ‘new’ crank before I commit to building with it. I’d love to know how you go about checking conrod deflection as well. I really want to build this next motor as properly as I can
…I’ve never really been able to go over 6-7k rpm with my existing motor, not with any kind of confidence 🥴 …
I’m guessing that if you can build your own wheels then you have some knowledge and confidence. Did you sell the dtr wheels, by the by?…
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Do you have the tools to check the runoff of a crank? (Or know a local workshop?)…
I really need to check my ‘new’ crank before I commit to building with it. I’d love to know how you go about checking conrod deflection as well. I really want to build this next motor as properly as I can
…I’ve never really been able to go over 6-7k rpm with my existing motor, not with any kind of confidence 🥴 …
I’m guessing that if you can build your own wheels then you have some knowledge and confidence. Did you sell the dtr wheels, by the by?…
wrote on 31 Jul 2023, 08:51 last edited by HOTSHOT III@SpookDog I do take an interest in building and truing cranks but all the equipment needed is a serious investment so I've never got around to trying it unfortunately.
Locally I'd try G Arnold Motorcycles in Poole on 01202 747405; he does rebores and people speak very highly of him so I'd excpect him to at least have some V blocks and a good quality DTI. Or just send it off to PJME or Grampian Motors for a full rebuild.
What makes you hesitant about going over 6-7k rpm, is there more vibration than you'd expect?
Wheelset is still for sale on eBay
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@SpookDog I do take an interest in building and truing cranks but all the equipment needed is a serious investment so I've never got around to trying it unfortunately.
Locally I'd try G Arnold Motorcycles in Poole on 01202 747405; he does rebores and people speak very highly of him so I'd excpect him to at least have some V blocks and a good quality DTI. Or just send it off to PJME or Grampian Motors for a full rebuild.
What makes you hesitant about going over 6-7k rpm, is there more vibration than you'd expect?
Wheelset is still for sale on eBay
wrote on 31 Jul 2023, 13:04 last edited by SpookDogMy conrod is bent/deflected to one side. Result of having a wrong pilot jet causing missffires and knocking for to many thousand miles (& head gaskets) to recall. It resulted in the flywheel side of the piston having 1mm of play between gudgeon/wrist~pin and the piston. A little bit slappy!!
…The crank I bought looks good and was an absolute bargain @ £30 or so, but I’m very paranoid about getting the next motor right. It looks like a new conrod was fitted very recently…
Did Arnold’s used to be a scooter place??…
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wrote on 31 Jul 2023, 18:49 last edited by
Ptsch, even with my 170 kit my DTR is nailed more RPMs than that.
Spa Motorcycle Cheltenham rebuild DTR cranks too.
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My conrod is bent/deflected to one side. Result of having a wrong pilot jet causing missffires and knocking for to many thousand miles (& head gaskets) to recall. It resulted in the flywheel side of the piston having 1mm of play between gudgeon/wrist~pin and the piston. A little bit slappy!!
…The crank I bought looks good and was an absolute bargain @ £30 or so, but I’m very paranoid about getting the next motor right. It looks like a new conrod was fitted very recently…
Did Arnold’s used to be a scooter place??…
wrote on 31 Jul 2023, 22:45 last edited by HOTSHOT III 8 Jan 2023, 12:43@SpookDog If you're building up a bottom end I'd just get the crankshaft rebuilt and be done with it to be honest, either that or buy a brand new trued and ready to fit Top Racing/Jasil crank from PJME which cost about the same as a crank rebuild but offer the advantage of completely unworn surfaces where the main bearings are an interference fit (these eventually wear out leading to the crank journals spinning inside the main bearing inner races). I fitted one of these to the DTR engine I rebuilt with Athena top end etc last year, it fitted well and is still running well as far as I know.
Something goes wrong with your £30 one it's going to cost you more sorting it out and it's another round of engine rebuilding (and not necessarily your fault as you're at the mercy of whoever built the crank and whether they used a good or budget rod kit). You could end up wrecking a decent barrel or a set of crankcases, both of which are getting increasingly difficult to get hold of so IMO this is false economy. I've known DTR crankshafts to last 35k+ miles even when abused by 17-year-olds through 3 or 4 top end meltdowns (ahem) so it's worth spending some time and money getting the bottom end spot on.
Never been to Arnold's but he comes highly recommended. I'd talk to all 3 TBH, PJME, Grampians and Arnolds and see what they all offer. I know PJME do a ParcelForce collection/return service for crank rebuilds and rebores. Also try Jim Bailey at RoadRunners Motorcycles in Stoke-on-Trent, he offers a complete DTR engine rebuild service if you can ship your engine to him.
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@SpookDog If you're building up a bottom end I'd just get the crankshaft rebuilt and be done with it to be honest, either that or buy a brand new trued and ready to fit Top Racing/Jasil crank from PJME which cost about the same as a crank rebuild but offer the advantage of completely unworn surfaces where the main bearings are an interference fit (these eventually wear out leading to the crank journals spinning inside the main bearing inner races). I fitted one of these to the DTR engine I rebuilt with Athena top end etc last year, it fitted well and is still running well as far as I know.
Something goes wrong with your £30 one it's going to cost you more sorting it out and it's another round of engine rebuilding (and not necessarily your fault as you're at the mercy of whoever built the crank and whether they used a good or budget rod kit). You could end up wrecking a decent barrel or a set of crankcases, both of which are getting increasingly difficult to get hold of so IMO this is false economy. I've known DTR crankshafts to last 35k+ miles even when abused by 17-year-olds through 3 or 4 top end meltdowns (ahem) so it's worth spending some time and money getting the bottom end spot on.
Never been to Arnold's but he comes highly recommended. I'd talk to all 3 TBH, PJME, Grampians and Arnolds and see what they all offer. I know PJME do a ParcelForce collection/return service for crank rebuilds and rebores. Also try Jim Bailey at RoadRunners Motorcycles in Stoke-on-Trent, he offers a complete DTR engine rebuild service if you can ship your engine to him.
wrote on 1 Aug 2023, 14:19 last edited by@HOTSHOT-III
If I’d known before that a decent crank was buyable for £150 I would of done so,
I’m prolly just being paranoid. I’ve had so many problems getting the bike to the proper place...
2 years to suss out the proper jetting for the carb type! So embarrassing. I just put in a new replacement 25 pilot jet yesterday (I still haven’t found a uk seller for genuine Mikuni 25 jets!) and the bike feels like a totally different animal. Clean crisp revs throughout the range. Starts without choke and ticks over so much steadier…
It might sound stupid but I didn’t realise how wrong it was until I’d ridden a dtr that is running true. Just because it was an improvement on the previous try I thought it was okay. I had a genuine 25 pilot in there but it was partially blocked with solidified crud, then I must of overcooked it with the cleaning wire!…I probably have cause to be paranoid! What with my existing learning curve looking like a clutch spring!
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@SpookDog If you're building up a bottom end I'd just get the crankshaft rebuilt and be done with it to be honest, either that or buy a brand new trued and ready to fit Top Racing/Jasil crank from PJME which cost about the same as a crank rebuild but offer the advantage of completely unworn surfaces where the main bearings are an interference fit (these eventually wear out leading to the crank journals spinning inside the main bearing inner races). I fitted one of these to the DTR engine I rebuilt with Athena top end etc last year, it fitted well and is still running well as far as I know.
Something goes wrong with your £30 one it's going to cost you more sorting it out and it's another round of engine rebuilding (and not necessarily your fault as you're at the mercy of whoever built the crank and whether they used a good or budget rod kit). You could end up wrecking a decent barrel or a set of crankcases, both of which are getting increasingly difficult to get hold of so IMO this is false economy. I've known DTR crankshafts to last 35k+ miles even when abused by 17-year-olds through 3 or 4 top end meltdowns (ahem) so it's worth spending some time and money getting the bottom end spot on.
Never been to Arnold's but he comes highly recommended. I'd talk to all 3 TBH, PJME, Grampians and Arnolds and see what they all offer. I know PJME do a ParcelForce collection/return service for crank rebuilds and rebores. Also try Jim Bailey at RoadRunners Motorcycles in Stoke-on-Trent, he offers a complete DTR engine rebuild service if you can ship your engine to him.
wrote on 2 Aug 2023, 21:01 last edited byYou were right, I had a closer look at the crank. The inside of the small end has ‘damage’ to it. I guess I’m gonna have to save up a couple hundy pennies for a crank before dreaming about new rims
Them’s the licks…I’m seriously thinking about getting the tzr up and running. MoT it and use it, so as I can tear into the Dtr without time constraints. Get the frame dipped and painted and learn how to make a loom! It needs it. I want it to be a righteous little tear~about someday
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You were right, I had a closer look at the crank. The inside of the small end has ‘damage’ to it. I guess I’m gonna have to save up a couple hundy pennies for a crank before dreaming about new rims
Them’s the licks…I’m seriously thinking about getting the tzr up and running. MoT it and use it, so as I can tear into the Dtr without time constraints. Get the frame dipped and painted and learn how to make a loom! It needs it. I want it to be a righteous little tear~about someday
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You were right, I had a closer look at the crank. The inside of the small end has ‘damage’ to it. I guess I’m gonna have to save up a couple hundy pennies for a crank before dreaming about new rims
Them’s the licks…I’m seriously thinking about getting the tzr up and running. MoT it and use it, so as I can tear into the Dtr without time constraints. Get the frame dipped and painted and learn how to make a loom! It needs it. I want it to be a righteous little tear~about someday
️wrote on 3 Aug 2023, 12:58 last edited by HOTSHOT III 8 Mar 2023, 14:06@SpookDog Shame about the crank but at least you found out the easy way
We're probably on for another heatwave after all this rain so keep enjoying the DTR for another couple of months and start stockpiling parts for doing a frame-off nut and bolt rebuild over Winter. I'd be interested to see the TZR project coming along though, always rated them just because IMO the DTR engine platform is one of Yamaha's greatest achievements. Nearly 40 years now since it debuted in the original TZR125 and still being manufactured under licence!
BTW have you tried Allen Performance for Mikuni Jets? https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/shop/
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@SpookDog Shame about the crank but at least you found out the easy way
We're probably on for another heatwave after all this rain so keep enjoying the DTR for another couple of months and start stockpiling parts for doing a frame-off nut and bolt rebuild over Winter. I'd be interested to see the TZR project coming along though, always rated them just because IMO the DTR engine platform is one of Yamaha's greatest achievements. Nearly 40 years now since it debuted in the original TZR125 and still being manufactured under licence!
BTW have you tried Allen Performance for Mikuni Jets? https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/shop/
wrote on 3 Aug 2023, 17:28 last edited byWicked resource! But they only start at .30
I need a .25
.225 are the most common Dtr jet -
Wicked resource! But they only start at .30
I need a .25
.225 are the most common Dtr jetwrote on 3 Aug 2023, 18:15 last edited by SpookDog 8 Mar 2023, 20:05I’ve just found a really wicked way of seating tubeless tyres onto the rims!
Unscrew the pfieffer (sp?) valve and give a quick squirt of easy start into the valve (I used the top & straw off a wd40 can) only half a second!! Then using a blow torch at arms length, light the end of the valve. There’s a loud pop! as the bead seats, then a long hiisssssssss! as the excess pressure vents through the hollow valve! It’s a bit Leary but it works a treat
Beads settled and tyres inflated, just trying the test of time now (till morning
)
Showcasing the gates I spent the last month making for my Sis! Recycled crap and £20 worth of fence post wood! Just doing my JC thing
(carpentry, burning bush & beer!!)
Hence why I’ve not gotten shnit done on the bike… -
I’ve just found a really wicked way of seating tubeless tyres onto the rims!
Unscrew the pfieffer (sp?) valve and give a quick squirt of easy start into the valve (I used the top & straw off a wd40 can) only half a second!! Then using a blow torch at arms length, light the end of the valve. There’s a loud pop! as the bead seats, then a long hiisssssssss! as the excess pressure vents through the hollow valve! It’s a bit Leary but it works a treatBeads settled and tyres inflated, just trying the test of time now (till morning
)Showcasing the gates I spent the last month making for my Sis! Recycled crap and £20 worth of fence post wood! Just doing my JC thing
(carpentry, burning bush & beer!!)
Hence why I’ve not gotten shnit done on the bike…wrote on 4 Aug 2023, 09:06 last edited by HOTSHOT III 8 Apr 2023, 10:07@SpookDog Gates look ace, very well made
I was cycling the other day, a wasp got stuck underneath my helmet and stung me about 6 times in the time it took me to stop and take my helmet off and tread on the flying yobbo. So assuming I can locate where they hang out, I'd be most grateful if you don't use up all the Easy Start
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wrote on 4 Aug 2023, 17:51 last edited by
I meant, are they for you DT or are they for another project?
For now you ought to just enjoy it.
