So Close!...
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@SpookDog I do take an interest in building and truing cranks but all the equipment needed is a serious investment so I've never got around to trying it unfortunately.
Locally I'd try G Arnold Motorcycles in Poole on 01202 747405; he does rebores and people speak very highly of him so I'd excpect him to at least have some V blocks and a good quality DTI. Or just send it off to PJME or Grampian Motors for a full rebuild.
What makes you hesitant about going over 6-7k rpm, is there more vibration than you'd expect?
Wheelset is still for sale on eBay
My conrod is bent/deflected to one side. Result of having a wrong pilot jet causing missffires and knocking for to many thousand miles (& head gaskets) to recall. It resulted in the flywheel side of the piston having 1mm of play between gudgeon/wrist~pin and the piston. A little bit slappy!!
…The crank I bought looks good and was an absolute bargain @ £30 or so, but I’m very paranoid about getting the next motor right. It looks like a new conrod was fitted very recently…
Did Arnold’s used to be a scooter place??…
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My conrod is bent/deflected to one side. Result of having a wrong pilot jet causing missffires and knocking for to many thousand miles (& head gaskets) to recall. It resulted in the flywheel side of the piston having 1mm of play between gudgeon/wrist~pin and the piston. A little bit slappy!!
…The crank I bought looks good and was an absolute bargain @ £30 or so, but I’m very paranoid about getting the next motor right. It looks like a new conrod was fitted very recently…
Did Arnold’s used to be a scooter place??…
@SpookDog If you're building up a bottom end I'd just get the crankshaft rebuilt and be done with it to be honest, either that or buy a brand new trued and ready to fit Top Racing/Jasil crank from PJME which cost about the same as a crank rebuild but offer the advantage of completely unworn surfaces where the main bearings are an interference fit (these eventually wear out leading to the crank journals spinning inside the main bearing inner races). I fitted one of these to the DTR engine I rebuilt with Athena top end etc last year, it fitted well and is still running well as far as I know.
Something goes wrong with your £30 one it's going to cost you more sorting it out and it's another round of engine rebuilding (and not necessarily your fault as you're at the mercy of whoever built the crank and whether they used a good or budget rod kit). You could end up wrecking a decent barrel or a set of crankcases, both of which are getting increasingly difficult to get hold of so IMO this is false economy. I've known DTR crankshafts to last 35k+ miles even when abused by 17-year-olds through 3 or 4 top end meltdowns (ahem) so it's worth spending some time and money getting the bottom end spot on.
Never been to Arnold's but he comes highly recommended. I'd talk to all 3 TBH, PJME, Grampians and Arnolds and see what they all offer. I know PJME do a ParcelForce collection/return service for crank rebuilds and rebores. Also try Jim Bailey at RoadRunners Motorcycles in Stoke-on-Trent, he offers a complete DTR engine rebuild service if you can ship your engine to him.
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@SpookDog If you're building up a bottom end I'd just get the crankshaft rebuilt and be done with it to be honest, either that or buy a brand new trued and ready to fit Top Racing/Jasil crank from PJME which cost about the same as a crank rebuild but offer the advantage of completely unworn surfaces where the main bearings are an interference fit (these eventually wear out leading to the crank journals spinning inside the main bearing inner races). I fitted one of these to the DTR engine I rebuilt with Athena top end etc last year, it fitted well and is still running well as far as I know.
Something goes wrong with your £30 one it's going to cost you more sorting it out and it's another round of engine rebuilding (and not necessarily your fault as you're at the mercy of whoever built the crank and whether they used a good or budget rod kit). You could end up wrecking a decent barrel or a set of crankcases, both of which are getting increasingly difficult to get hold of so IMO this is false economy. I've known DTR crankshafts to last 35k+ miles even when abused by 17-year-olds through 3 or 4 top end meltdowns (ahem) so it's worth spending some time and money getting the bottom end spot on.
Never been to Arnold's but he comes highly recommended. I'd talk to all 3 TBH, PJME, Grampians and Arnolds and see what they all offer. I know PJME do a ParcelForce collection/return service for crank rebuilds and rebores. Also try Jim Bailey at RoadRunners Motorcycles in Stoke-on-Trent, he offers a complete DTR engine rebuild service if you can ship your engine to him.
@HOTSHOT-III
If I’d known before that a decent crank was buyable for £150 I would of done so,
I’m prolly just being paranoid. I’ve had so many problems getting the bike to the proper place...
2 years to suss out the proper jetting for the carb type! So embarrassing. I just put in a new replacement 25 pilot jet yesterday (I still haven’t found a uk seller for genuine Mikuni 25 jets!) and the bike feels like a totally different animal. Clean crisp revs throughout the range. Starts without choke and ticks over so much steadier…
It might sound stupid but I didn’t realise how wrong it was until I’d ridden a dtr that is running true. Just because it was an improvement on the previous try I thought it was okay. I had a genuine 25 pilot in there but it was partially blocked with solidified crud, then I must of overcooked it with the cleaning wire!…I probably have cause to be paranoid! What with my existing learning curve looking like a clutch spring!
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@SpookDog If you're building up a bottom end I'd just get the crankshaft rebuilt and be done with it to be honest, either that or buy a brand new trued and ready to fit Top Racing/Jasil crank from PJME which cost about the same as a crank rebuild but offer the advantage of completely unworn surfaces where the main bearings are an interference fit (these eventually wear out leading to the crank journals spinning inside the main bearing inner races). I fitted one of these to the DTR engine I rebuilt with Athena top end etc last year, it fitted well and is still running well as far as I know.
Something goes wrong with your £30 one it's going to cost you more sorting it out and it's another round of engine rebuilding (and not necessarily your fault as you're at the mercy of whoever built the crank and whether they used a good or budget rod kit). You could end up wrecking a decent barrel or a set of crankcases, both of which are getting increasingly difficult to get hold of so IMO this is false economy. I've known DTR crankshafts to last 35k+ miles even when abused by 17-year-olds through 3 or 4 top end meltdowns (ahem) so it's worth spending some time and money getting the bottom end spot on.
Never been to Arnold's but he comes highly recommended. I'd talk to all 3 TBH, PJME, Grampians and Arnolds and see what they all offer. I know PJME do a ParcelForce collection/return service for crank rebuilds and rebores. Also try Jim Bailey at RoadRunners Motorcycles in Stoke-on-Trent, he offers a complete DTR engine rebuild service if you can ship your engine to him.
You were right, I had a closer look at the crank. The inside of the small end has ‘damage’ to it. I guess I’m gonna have to save up a couple hundy pennies for a crank before dreaming about new rims
Them’s the licks…I’m seriously thinking about getting the tzr up and running. MoT it and use it, so as I can tear into the Dtr without time constraints. Get the frame dipped and painted and learn how to make a loom! It needs it. I want it to be a righteous little tear~about someday
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You were right, I had a closer look at the crank. The inside of the small end has ‘damage’ to it. I guess I’m gonna have to save up a couple hundy pennies for a crank before dreaming about new rims
Them’s the licks…I’m seriously thinking about getting the tzr up and running. MoT it and use it, so as I can tear into the Dtr without time constraints. Get the frame dipped and painted and learn how to make a loom! It needs it. I want it to be a righteous little tear~about someday
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You were right, I had a closer look at the crank. The inside of the small end has ‘damage’ to it. I guess I’m gonna have to save up a couple hundy pennies for a crank before dreaming about new rims
Them’s the licks…I’m seriously thinking about getting the tzr up and running. MoT it and use it, so as I can tear into the Dtr without time constraints. Get the frame dipped and painted and learn how to make a loom! It needs it. I want it to be a righteous little tear~about someday
️@SpookDog Shame about the crank but at least you found out the easy way
We're probably on for another heatwave after all this rain so keep enjoying the DTR for another couple of months and start stockpiling parts for doing a frame-off nut and bolt rebuild over Winter. I'd be interested to see the TZR project coming along though, always rated them just because IMO the DTR engine platform is one of Yamaha's greatest achievements. Nearly 40 years now since it debuted in the original TZR125 and still being manufactured under licence!
BTW have you tried Allen Performance for Mikuni Jets? https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/shop/
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@SpookDog Shame about the crank but at least you found out the easy way
We're probably on for another heatwave after all this rain so keep enjoying the DTR for another couple of months and start stockpiling parts for doing a frame-off nut and bolt rebuild over Winter. I'd be interested to see the TZR project coming along though, always rated them just because IMO the DTR engine platform is one of Yamaha's greatest achievements. Nearly 40 years now since it debuted in the original TZR125 and still being manufactured under licence!
BTW have you tried Allen Performance for Mikuni Jets? https://www.allensperformance.co.uk/shop/
Wicked resource! But they only start at .30
I need a .25
.225 are the most common Dtr jet -
Wicked resource! But they only start at .30
I need a .25
.225 are the most common Dtr jetI’ve just found a really wicked way of seating tubeless tyres onto the rims!
Unscrew the pfieffer (sp?) valve and give a quick squirt of easy start into the valve (I used the top & straw off a wd40 can) only half a second!! Then using a blow torch at arms length, light the end of the valve. There’s a loud pop! as the bead seats, then a long hiisssssssss! as the excess pressure vents through the hollow valve! It’s a bit Leary but it works a treat
Beads settled and tyres inflated, just trying the test of time now (till morning
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Showcasing the gates I spent the last month making for my Sis! Recycled crap and £20 worth of fence post wood! Just doing my JC thing
(carpentry, burning bush & beer!!)
Hence why I’ve not gotten shnit done on the bike… -
I’ve just found a really wicked way of seating tubeless tyres onto the rims!
Unscrew the pfieffer (sp?) valve and give a quick squirt of easy start into the valve (I used the top & straw off a wd40 can) only half a second!! Then using a blow torch at arms length, light the end of the valve. There’s a loud pop! as the bead seats, then a long hiisssssssss! as the excess pressure vents through the hollow valve! It’s a bit Leary but it works a treatBeads settled and tyres inflated, just trying the test of time now (till morning
)Showcasing the gates I spent the last month making for my Sis! Recycled crap and £20 worth of fence post wood! Just doing my JC thing
(carpentry, burning bush & beer!!)
Hence why I’ve not gotten shnit done on the bike…@SpookDog Gates look ace, very well made
I was cycling the other day, a wasp got stuck underneath my helmet and stung me about 6 times in the time it took me to stop and take my helmet off and tread on the flying yobbo. So assuming I can locate where they hang out, I'd be most grateful if you don't use up all the Easy Start
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@SpookDog Gates look ace, very well made
I was cycling the other day, a wasp got stuck underneath my helmet and stung me about 6 times in the time it took me to stop and take my helmet off and tread on the flying yobbo. So assuming I can locate where they hang out, I'd be most grateful if you don't use up all the Easy Start
I usually end up with them between my shoulder blades! It’s happened a few times in the last two summers! They must get sucked back there on a vortex and I end up doing ‘The Dance’ on the side of the road.
️️️Tzr125rr (4HW) The 1994 one that used a 3vx 250 frame…
PS They stayed inflated as well! It’s a handy technique I found on YouTube. I just refined it a little
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Wicked resource! But they only start at .30
I need a .25
.225 are the most common Dtr jet@SpookDog try KMT products limited. British made jets by a Northamptonshire company. Top quality too. Unlike the Chinese copies and they start at .10.
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/273888042871?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=RUUIcrapSsS&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=7ztfcrwyt6w&var=573711906965&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY -
Hi guys sorry Abit off topic here
Just picked up a dtr from my mate, it had the ktm style front light on it, the wires are
Green = Ground
White = High beam
Blue = Low beam
Brown = SidelightI can get sidelight working when ignition key is turned and also the normal beam headlight but the switch doesn’t do anything, the wires have previously been cut, I’m just wondering if anyone has a picture of the wiring colours for headlight and the switch the switch looks like a Newer 2003+ one
I’ll put some pictures up if it lets me
Cheers !
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Here is the wires for ktm style headlight what ones would I connect for it all to work above is the wires that’s at the front of the bike
Not use to all this cut wires but I don’t want to get a new loom just for 4 wires for headlight lol -
On my dtr125
Black: earth
Green: headlight
Yellow:headlight
Blue/Red: sidelightDon’t remember what colour is main or dip, just experiment
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Got a new crank ordered from PJME. Just waiting on it now. Need to get a bolt lug welding on to the flywheel side of the crank casing and I’ll be good to start building this thing…
Waiting on the flywheel puller now. There’s some noise from that sides bearing, maybe. It might be the starter clutch ring though. I don’t have any experience of elecy start lumps. So I want to remove the flywheel and starter clutch-ring stuff and see how it sounds without all that gumpf.
There’s no (up/down) movement in the crankshaft apart from a bit of side to side, which I can’t say I remember ever seeing before. I don’t know if that’s normal?…
For now you ought to just enjoy it.
