So Close!...
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@SpookDog All sounds good
Interesting mod running an earth directly to the frame; the main earth is on the coil mounting so I guess you've probably checked/cleaned that already. Worth looking at though as lots of people get their frame painted, then don't scrape off the paint here before refitting the coil. Also the earth on the taillight sometimes gives trouble as it's in the form of a spade connector on the back of the actual bulb holder and so rarely gets any attention as it's hidden between the light and rear mudguard.
Yep I always file them back to good metal. I think it was the spade connector jinking with the tail light
May sound silly but how many red wires connect to the battery positive +? 1 or 2?… -
Yep I always file them back to good metal. I think it was the spade connector jinking with the tail light
May sound silly but how many red wires connect to the battery positive +? 1 or 2?…Just been studying the manual and even though the AC & DC share a common earth there are two distinct earth~circuits, one B black the other Br brown. They both go through the key barrel separately.
I’m thinking that either the previous owner or Me have ‘polluted’ the two circuits. Seeing how I’ve had this problem from day one I’m blaming them
Now I just have to find out where the brown and black have crossed…The brake switchs, indicator flasher, neutral light, horn use the brown curcuit. The split from single black to black & brown happens just after the RR…
Hopefully this will help me fix something that’s been bugging me for ages!
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Just been studying the manual and even though the AC & DC share a common earth there are two distinct earth~circuits, one B black the other Br brown. They both go through the key barrel separately.
I’m thinking that either the previous owner or Me have ‘polluted’ the two circuits. Seeing how I’ve had this problem from day one I’m blaming them
Now I just have to find out where the brown and black have crossed…The brake switchs, indicator flasher, neutral light, horn use the brown curcuit. The split from single black to black & brown happens just after the RR…
Hopefully this will help me fix something that’s been bugging me for ages!
…Damn, nothing! I really thought I was on to something. Oh well, RR is fitted and I’ll test it later on…
Can anyone tell me about the red 2T oil warning light? I seem to remember there’s a thing it does when you first turn on the ignition? Comes on regardless of oil and then goes out the first time you put it in gear, or the like?
Mine hasn’t been connected for a long while and I’ve totally forgotten
…I ask because the black earth that is one of the three wires has a diode in it (one way valve for electricity?) I can’t suss out why…
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Damn, nothing! I really thought I was on to something. Oh well, RR is fitted and I’ll test it later on…
Can anyone tell me about the red 2T oil warning light? I seem to remember there’s a thing it does when you first turn on the ignition? Comes on regardless of oil and then goes out the first time you put it in gear, or the like?
Mine hasn’t been connected for a long while and I’ve totally forgotten …I ask because the black earth that is one of the three wires has a diode in it (one way valve for electricity?) I can’t suss out why…
@SpookDog Looking at the 3NC wiring diagram there should only be one red wire coming off the battery +ve terminal.
The oil light should illuminate at the same time as the neutral light even with a full tank of two-stroke oil and go out when you put the bike in gear, it's just a visual check that the oil light works.
Light brown (Br on the diagram, not the same as dark brown for the left indicators which is marked Ch) is the main +ve feed from the ignition switch on all Yamahas from this era; it connects red to brown when you turn on the ignition, then as you say Br feeds the horn, brake light switches, indicator relay, temp gauge, neutral/oil lights and YPVS servo. So it helps to just consider it a continuation of the red wire. In fact if you remove your 3MB servo from the bike completely and apply battery voltage -ve to black and +ve to brown, it will perform its cleaning cycle like it does when you turn the ignition on.
Can't shed any light on why your black wire has a diode in it, only diode I can see is on the sky blue (Sb) wire near the oil level gauge.
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@SpookDog Looking at the 3NC wiring diagram there should only be one red wire coming off the battery +ve terminal.
The oil light should illuminate at the same time as the neutral light even with a full tank of two-stroke oil and go out when you put the bike in gear, it's just a visual check that the oil light works.
Light brown (Br on the diagram, not the same as dark brown for the left indicators which is marked Ch) is the main +ve feed from the ignition switch on all Yamahas from this era; it connects red to brown when you turn on the ignition, then as you say Br feeds the horn, brake light switches, indicator relay, temp gauge, neutral/oil lights and YPVS servo. So it helps to just consider it a continuation of the red wire. In fact if you remove your 3MB servo from the bike completely and apply battery voltage -ve to black and +ve to brown, it will perform its cleaning cycle like it does when you turn the ignition on.
Can't shed any light on why your black wire has a diode in it, only diode I can see is on the sky blue (Sb) wire near the oil level gauge.
Oh fux me! On my diagram there’s no power valve servo. So it looked to me like the black earth just changed to a different brown earth curcuit. If I was more humble I’d feel pretty stupid
I don’t know why they left the PV connector in the diagram. I’ve got a red and a green connector (behind the headlight) that are both unused, and they don’t show them in the diagram.Bulb check! Makes sense now…
Cheers bud, always a pleasure…
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Oh fux me! On my diagram there’s no power valve servo. So it looked to me like the black earth just changed to a different brown earth curcuit. If I was more humble I’d feel pretty stupid
I don’t know why they left the PV connector in the diagram. I’ve got a red and a green connector (behind the headlight) that are both unused, and they don’t show them in the diagram.Bulb check! Makes sense now…
Cheers bud, always a pleasure…
My diagram!
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Haynes
Wonder what else I’ve been swimming against…Nice diagram, is it online? I’ve got two solenoid box’s under the seat that I can’t find on any diagram. They have to be side stand cut out related, but I’d love to know for sure…
New RR didn’t work, no headlights at all. Do the later bikes put out any AC at all, or is it just broken
…Edit: I forgot, I passed 40,000 miles the other day (or night) was on 14.5K when I got it a few years ago…
Edit: Disconnected the battery to frame earth and the fuse hasn’t blown yet. I can’t get my head around wiring. It’s all a bit AC\DC
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My diagram!
…Haynes
Wonder what else I’ve been swimming against…Nice diagram, is it online? I’ve got two solenoid box’s under the seat that I can’t find on any diagram. They have to be side stand cut out related, but I’d love to know for sure…
New RR didn’t work, no headlights at all. Do the later bikes put out any AC at all, or is it just broken
…Edit: I forgot, I passed 40,000 miles the other day (or night) was on 14.5K when I got it a few years ago…
Edit: Disconnected the battery to frame earth and the fuse hasn’t blown yet. I can’t get my head around wiring. It’s all a bit AC\DC
The crank just turned up. It’s a nice looking piece of kit. I’m glad I listened, for once
…Another topic: anyone using gel batteries? Any issues with charging? Or should it be a lead-acid only on an early 3 stator bike?
I’m having issues with a gel battery I fitted last year. It’s holding a very small amount of charge, but when I try and charge it on a mains gel-specific charger it says it’s already fully charged. I don’t want to replace it with another gel battery only for the same thing to happen. If it’s not compatible with the early Dtr charging curcuit… -
I run a lithium battery on my DTRE. Nice and light and stores really well. Plenty of cranking amps too for the start motor!
I only paid £50 for mine several years ago...
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I run a lithium battery on my DTRE. Nice and light and stores really well. Plenty of cranking amps too for the start motor!
I only paid £50 for mine several years ago...
I appreciate that they are good, the next level. I think the Re is 3 phase and totally DC though. I think the 97 onwards may be as well. The 88-96 are AC & DC though.
From what I’ve read overcharging can seriously fux up a battery, on a liquid acid battery it evaporates the electrolyte and you can top up. On a gel battery you can’t replace it and it deteriorated to death
️I didn’t maintain my liquid acid battery and it dries out badly. I thought it was the heat at the time. I think I need to check my stator coil outputs
or replace the regulator/rectifier with a genuine one. I tried a later RR but the lights never worked. I’m guessing it is DC only. No AC current… -
I appreciate that they are good, the next level. I think the Re is 3 phase and totally DC though. I think the 97 onwards may be as well. The 88-96 are AC & DC though.
From what I’ve read overcharging can seriously fux up a battery, on a liquid acid battery it evaporates the electrolyte and you can top up. On a gel battery you can’t replace it and it deteriorated to death️I didn’t maintain my liquid acid battery and it dries out badly. I thought it was the heat at the time. I think I need to check my stator coil outputs
or replace the regulator/rectifier with a genuine one. I tried a later RR but the lights never worked. I’m guessing it is DC only. No AC current… -
Does anyone have a genuine Yamaha Regulator Rectifier for sale?…
The RR I have fitted is overcharging the battery. It dried out my last liquid acid battery and has done for my gel one now 🫤 …
Bearing puller set arrived today. £25 for 14 piece set which also has two ‘leg’ puller attachments (pun intended) that some kits don’t…
Nice & painless as I like it! Removed the bearing in 5 mins with no marking the crank at all. Wish I’d known about these before, back when two very large flathead screwdrivers were my ‘modus operandi’
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Bearing puller set arrived today. £25 for 14 piece set which also has two ‘leg’ puller attachments (pun intended) that some kits don’t…
Nice & painless as I like it! Removed the bearing in 5 mins with no marking the crank at all. Wish I’d known about these before, back when two very large flathead screwdrivers were my ‘modus operandi’
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I’m celebrating my head not being blown in a very decent amount of time
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A year, long time for me keeping my head together
…My back tyre seems to develop an ‘edge’ after a few thousand miles. Or a while, I haven’t been keeping track of mileage so much since my head stopped blowing…
The centre seems to develop a flat spot because most miles are covered upright. When I go to lean, once you leave the flat bit, there’s an edge that is not very stable feeling, it kind of shimmys before it bites. Anyone else experienced this with knobbly tyres? It’s like all of a sudden you’re on a knife edge! It doesn’t help that the tread there is deep and ‘flexy’…
It’s gotten to the point where I’m thinking of ‘adventure bike’ type ‘trail’ tyres. I can’t remember the last time I went off tarmac. I refuse to put 100% road tyres on tho’
Any recommendations for good, decent wearing tyres?…Or should I just get out the angle grinder? Or learn to doughnut!
️PS: @HOTSHOT-III
Do you still have the dtr wheel set for sale?… -
My back tyre seems to develop an ‘edge’ after a few thousand miles. Or a while, I haven’t been keeping track of mileage so much since my head stopped blowing…
The centre seems to develop a flat spot because most miles are covered upright. When I go to lean, once you leave the flat bit, there’s an edge that is not very stable feeling, it kind of shimmys before it bites. Anyone else experienced this with knobbly tyres? It’s like all of a sudden you’re on a knife edge! It doesn’t help that the tread there is deep and ‘flexy’…
It’s gotten to the point where I’m thinking of ‘adventure bike’ type ‘trail’ tyres. I can’t remember the last time I went off tarmac. I refuse to put 100% road tyres on tho’
Any recommendations for good, decent wearing tyres?…Or should I just get out the angle grinder? Or learn to doughnut!
️PS: @HOTSHOT-III
Do you still have the dtr wheel set for sale?…@SpookDog Yes bud, wheelset is still available:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/266386635256
Avon TrailRiders are excellent tyres and all I ever used on all my DTRs. They're roughly 85% road/15% dirt so very sticky and fast rolling on tarmac but still good for gentle off-roading when it's bone dry.
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Yes, the edge knobs are a bit flexible sideways, and if you are leaning over you are putting more than 1g force on them, so it makes sense that stability suffers. Increasing tyre pressure mitigates it somewhat.
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Yes, the edge knobs are a bit flexible sideways, and if you are leaning over you are putting more than 1g force on them, so it makes sense that stability suffers. Increasing tyre pressure mitigates it somewhat.
Doesn’t help that they are now twice the depth of the centre tread.
I need to find a safe bit of tarmac somewhere that I can practice doughnuts. Last time I tried it was a Vespa p200 with a sidecar and an off duty PC reported me for reckless driving
It was in a ‘off hours’ dead end car park by the river. So I’m a bit more cautious now…
I don’t think that the angle grinder will be uniform enough though …Apparently Some manufacturers are using different hardness ‘bands’ in their tyres…
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Vespa with a sidecar doing donuts? ROFL
The rear tyre on my CBR resembled a baker's rolling pin more than anything.
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Vespa with a sidecar doing donuts? ROFL
The rear tyre on my CBR resembled a baker's rolling pin more than anything.
??? It’s real fuxin easy as long as you don’t try and turn left while you’re doing it, work it out
…Depending on which way the pin is facing. I don’t know if that’s bad or not…
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Rear brake stopped biting today. I had noticed it had been fading over the last few rides. It turns out that the piston is pitted at a point where it was left standing for a long while sometime in its past. Don’t have any money to replace the piston and seals at the moment, so I’m gonna have to drill & fill the pits to squeeze a few more thousand miles out of it
…I would like to fit a 35mm front calliper on the rear. I have one ready to go but I had to buy a 14mm master to match it. Accidentally, I broke off the plastic fitting that the reservoir tube fits on to. Once I have the pennies for that I’ll get on with this long overdue upgrade. My rear brake makes up well over 50% of my braking, so it’s needed…
I have some ideas for a front disc upgrade, but I need to find someone who has access to ‘water cut’ a disc centre that matches a Dtr hub to a suitable sized ‘floating disc’ outer…
Edit: reservoir tube in post…
Need to test charging coil output to see why the bike is eating batteries. If output is good from coil replace regulator (long overdue) with used part…
