So Close!...
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It's a wear groove, seen it many times on cranks etc. your lucky on the DT it's a removable bush/sleeve, that can be replaced. I'd turn it so the seal is running on a smooth section of the sleeve.
wrote on 28 Nov 2023, 11:40 last edited byThat is what I first thought, but it’s so perfect. Also it’s a double lipped seal so there should be two. Can you understand where I’m coming from?…
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When I saw it on the front sprocket spacer I thought it was wear. Now I’m starting to wonder. How much rubber would it take to wear into steel?!
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wrote on 28 Nov 2023, 12:32 last edited by Calum
@SpookDog I've updated my original post, I was having a hard time locating the part in question (being thick).
Anyway I think it's part number 25 you're after and it looks as though, no there should not be a lip there.
You can get a titanium replacement:
https://titanclassics.com/product/titanium-front-sprocket-spacer/
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That is what I first thought, but it’s so perfect. Also it’s a double lipped seal so there should be two. Can you understand where I’m coming from?…
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When I saw it on the front sprocket spacer I thought it was wear. Now I’m starting to wonder. How much rubber would it take to wear into steel?!
wrote on 28 Nov 2023, 14:41 last edited by HOTSHOT III@SpookDog I agree it looks machined, no idea what it's doing there but you can see how the crank seal lips have marked a wider track next to it on both sides, obviously at some point someone has rebuilt the engine and flipped the spacer to have a fresh surface running in their new crank seal.
Be that as it may, in these kinds of situations where a hard material runs against a soft material, it's usually the harder material which experiences the most wear because small fragments of the hard material embed themselves in the soft material and then behave like boulders stuck in the bottom of glaciers which is what formed today's mountain ranges as they moved slowly downhill. That's why if you go looking for an aluminium 3ET DT200R swingarm for your DT125R, you have to be very careful not to buy one which has had the shock protector mudflap rubbing against it as this can make the back of the linkage pivot area dangerously worn. KTM also had this problem on their modern Enduro bikes leading to people gluing a 50p piece onto the back of the shock pivot mounting. I didn't want to trust JB Weld in an area exposed to lots of mud and chain lube so I cut open the plastic sleeve from inside a reel of sticky labels and zip tied it in place.
Ti is a nice thought but I'd be wanting to look at its material properties, suitability for running against rubber etc. I think you can still get the OEM one from Fowlers for reasonably cheap.
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@SpookDog I agree it looks machined, no idea what it's doing there but you can see how the crank seal lips have marked a wider track next to it on both sides, obviously at some point someone has rebuilt the engine and flipped the spacer to have a fresh surface running in their new crank seal.
Be that as it may, in these kinds of situations where a hard material runs against a soft material, it's usually the harder material which experiences the most wear because small fragments of the hard material embed themselves in the soft material and then behave like boulders stuck in the bottom of glaciers which is what formed today's mountain ranges as they moved slowly downhill. That's why if you go looking for an aluminium 3ET DT200R swingarm for your DT125R, you have to be very careful not to buy one which has had the shock protector mudflap rubbing against it as this can make the back of the linkage pivot area dangerously worn. KTM also had this problem on their modern Enduro bikes leading to people gluing a 50p piece onto the back of the shock pivot mounting. I didn't want to trust JB Weld in an area exposed to lots of mud and chain lube so I cut open the plastic sleeve from inside a reel of sticky labels and zip tied it in place.
Ti is a nice thought but I'd be wanting to look at its material properties, suitability for running against rubber etc. I think you can still get the OEM one from Fowlers for reasonably cheap.
wrote on 28 Nov 2023, 15:06 last edited by SpookDogIt’s weird no? I’ve flipped them over myself. It looks like the (first?) time it was fitted with the groove inwards they put the seal in to far, instead of being flush with the casing. I’ve not seen one with a groove before. I’m guessing it’s an aftermarket replacement…
I have seen sprocket spacers with a groove that I assumed was wear. I’ve seen more that have ‘cut’ a shiny line in the rust that aren’t the same…—————————————————
Getting the lump together a bit today, mostly cause it’s not hissing down with rain & blowing crap everywhere!
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It’s weird no? I’ve flipped them over myself. It looks like the (first?) time it was fitted with the groove inwards they put the seal in to far, instead of being flush with the casing. I’ve not seen one with a groove before. I’m guessing it’s an aftermarket replacement…
I have seen sprocket spacers with a groove that I assumed was wear. I’ve seen more that have ‘cut’ a shiny line in the rust that aren’t the same…—————————————————
Getting the lump together a bit today, mostly cause it’s not hissing down with rain & blowing crap everywhere!
…wrote on 29 Nov 2023, 19:09 last edited by SpookDogFux! My bike has been running so luverly and crisp since the temp has dropped and it’s dried up a bit, but it’s developed a habit of stopping dead when I put it on the side stand (with a tiny bit of extra slope).
I don’t have the plastic ‘pickup’ tube fitted to the pilot jet, cause it was picking up blobs of water before (thank you ethylene!) and fuxin up the low range of the throttle.
This will have to be my memo to check the float height! Get some new clear 4mm tube Richy!! Do the overflow test!…I’ve kinda gotten used to having a reliable tickover!…
It’s always something in this Life!!…
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Fux! My bike has been running so luverly and crisp since the temp has dropped and it’s dried up a bit, but it’s developed a habit of stopping dead when I put it on the side stand (with a tiny bit of extra slope).
I don’t have the plastic ‘pickup’ tube fitted to the pilot jet, cause it was picking up blobs of water before (thank you ethylene!) and fuxin up the low range of the throttle.
This will have to be my memo to check the float height! Get some new clear 4mm tube Richy!! Do the overflow test!…I’ve kinda gotten used to having a reliable tickover!…
It’s always something in this Life!!…
wrote on 29 Nov 2023, 19:33 last edited by@SpookDog Yeah my bike is running crisp in this weather also, the Cagiva has died a death, but the Yamaha is still going strong
But yeah, the idle can drop if left alone for a period of time. Doesn't help I'm running premix either as I find it typically fouls the plugs! -
@SpookDog Yeah my bike is running crisp in this weather also, the Cagiva has died a death, but the Yamaha is still going strong
But yeah, the idle can drop if left alone for a period of time. Doesn't help I'm running premix either as I find it typically fouls the plugs!wrote on 1 Dec 2023, 13:21 last edited byThis happens almost immediately! Don’t drop, just dies! I’ll have to do the level check where you use a clear pipe run from the overflow/drain up the side of the carb…
Got my new 57 gudgeon pin but I’m worried about it being so snug. I’m wondering if it was a MM or so short to allow for expansion?…
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wrote on 1 Dec 2023, 15:50 last edited by
Gudgeon pins are a snug fit right?
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wrote on 2 Dec 2023, 18:53 last edited by SpookDog 12 Feb 2023, 19:11
Yeah, I think so. The Athena one actually has chamfered edges that mate up tight with the C clips. It’s so tight I think it keeps the C clips in place when it gets hot…
I just spent my afternoon taking off a MM (from my 57MM pin) with an angle grinder. I then had to do the chamfered edge on both sides. I used a fat + head screwdriver, let the pin spin on the end of it against the angle grinder…
Not pretty but it works out OK
…My only wonder is that the pin I have is over twice as heavy as the Athena one. One part of me thinks the extra weight will be ‘torque-y’ when it’s spinning. The other worries about it being out of balance with the balancer shaft! 🤪
Or is it the weight of the crank that it balances?!… -
wrote on 2 Dec 2023, 21:54 last edited by
Well that's why people were not a big fan of Athena 170 kit because of the extra weight causing additional vibrations...
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Well that's why people were not a big fan of Athena 170 kit because of the extra weight causing additional vibrations...
wrote on 3 Dec 2023, 12:54 last edited bySo it’s the piston that the balancer shaft balance’s? I’d of thought Athena or some other enterprising soul (with access to a lathe) would of made up and sold a batch of ‘big bore balancer bits’ by now!
…I thought it was the crank, for some reason…
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So it’s the piston that the balancer shaft balance’s? I’d of thought Athena or some other enterprising soul (with access to a lathe) would of made up and sold a batch of ‘big bore balancer bits’ by now!
…I thought it was the crank, for some reason…
wrote on 3 Dec 2023, 18:37 last edited by@SpookDog
Mine does vibrate a fair amount on longer rides my hands go numb. It's just something I've learned to live with for the times that I use it. That said, it's my understanding that the Rotax 127 engines, fitted to Aprilia AF1s, didn't even run a balancer shaft 
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@SpookDog
Mine does vibrate a fair amount on longer rides my hands go numb. It's just something I've learned to live with for the times that I use it. That said, it's my understanding that the Rotax 127 engines, fitted to Aprilia AF1s, didn't even run a balancer shaft -
So it’s the piston that the balancer shaft balance’s? I’d of thought Athena or some other enterprising soul (with access to a lathe) would of made up and sold a batch of ‘big bore balancer bits’ by now!
…I thought it was the crank, for some reason…
wrote on 3 Dec 2023, 21:34 last edited by@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
So it’s the piston that the balancer shaft balance’s? I’d of thought Athena or some other enterprising soul (with access to a lathe) would of made up and sold a batch of ‘big bore balancer bits’ by now!
…I thought it was the crank, for some reason…
Or you can use the DT200R 3ET balancer that fits like a glove,but then you are limited to the big bore kit along the heavy gudgeon pin you have.
It's a mod I thought to do but I didn't have the vibrations I expected. -
@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
So it’s the piston that the balancer shaft balance’s? I’d of thought Athena or some other enterprising soul (with access to a lathe) would of made up and sold a batch of ‘big bore balancer bits’ by now!
…I thought it was the crank, for some reason…
Or you can use the DT200R 3ET balancer that fits like a glove,but then you are limited to the big bore kit along the heavy gudgeon pin you have.
It's a mod I thought to do but I didn't have the vibrations I expected.wrote on 5 Dec 2023, 18:35 last edited byI like your thinking! Nice idea, cheers bud…
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I kinda thought that the numb fingers was an age thing anyways. I can remember driving Mk1 transit LWB with no power steering & drum brakes back in the 90’s.
Vibration is a minor niggle really Saying that I’d rubber mount the bars if I could!…————————————
Anyone got a spare clutch cable mount that lives on the bottom of the barrel stud that they can post? I’m skint till next Wednesday…
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I like your thinking! Nice idea, cheers bud…
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I kinda thought that the numb fingers was an age thing anyways. I can remember driving Mk1 transit LWB with no power steering & drum brakes back in the 90’s.
Vibration is a minor niggle really Saying that I’d rubber mount the bars if I could!…————————————
Anyone got a spare clutch cable mount that lives on the bottom of the barrel stud that they can post? I’m skint till next Wednesday…
wrote on 5 Dec 2023, 20:00 last edited by HOTSHOT III 12 May 2023, 20:01This post is deleted! -
I like your thinking! Nice idea, cheers bud…
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I kinda thought that the numb fingers was an age thing anyways. I can remember driving Mk1 transit LWB with no power steering & drum brakes back in the 90’s.
Vibration is a minor niggle really Saying that I’d rubber mount the bars if I could!…————————————
Anyone got a spare clutch cable mount that lives on the bottom of the barrel stud that they can post? I’m skint till next Wednesday…
wrote on 6 Dec 2023, 15:39 last edited by SpookDog 12 Jun 2023, 15:43Damn it! I didn’t realise that there is an oil seal under the 2T pump drive cog, on the inside of the clutch casing. Every other bloody seal is listed apart from that one! 21 x 10 x 5
Got to wait for one to turn up now before I can button up the clutch casing…
I’ve replaced every other seal & bearing, so I’m not going to use the old one!…Sometimes it feels like the ‘Little people’ are fuxin with me! 🧚
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Damn it! I didn’t realise that there is an oil seal under the 2T pump drive cog, on the inside of the clutch casing. Every other bloody seal is listed apart from that one! 21 x 10 x 5
Got to wait for one to turn up now before I can button up the clutch casing…
I’ve replaced every other seal & bearing, so I’m not going to use the old one!…Sometimes it feels like the ‘Little people’ are fuxin with me! 🧚
️ …wrote on 6 Dec 2023, 16:07 last edited by@SpookDog I think you get one of those with the Yambits oil pump repair kit
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@SpookDog I think you get one of those with the Yambits oil pump repair kit
wrote on 8 Dec 2023, 17:37 last edited byCan you please link me to it? I’ve tried but can’t seem to ‘find anything’
I’d like to know what price is on the kit, as well as what’s included…
I’ve already gotten the casing oil seal. I don’t want to put on any of the pumps I’ve got without giving them a ‘refresh’ though!…
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Can you please link me to it? I’ve tried but can’t seem to ‘find anything’
I’d like to know what price is on the kit, as well as what’s included…
I’ve already gotten the casing oil seal. I don’t want to put on any of the pumps I’ve got without giving them a ‘refresh’ though!…
wrote on 8 Dec 2023, 17:42 last edited by SpookDog 12 Aug 2023, 18:08Don’t worry! I’ve found it 2 minutes later!
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If the rain holds off for the next day or two: I should be able to fit the seals and button up the clutch side. I’ve already prepped it with a hot detergent wash and ‘scrub/brush’ it’s just degrease assemble and fit. Same with the barrel and piston. I’ve already decoked the piston and PV and barrel-exhaust port…
I haven’t found suitable bolts for the reed cage and inlet yet. I won’t fit the top end till that’s fitted and plugged with clean cotton waste…
One good day or two ‘meh!’ days and I’m ready to give the bike a few soaks with shampoo detergent before getting a final jet wash. Then I can swap out the motors while fitting a new (used) rear shock…
I still haven’t finished fitting the bottom headstock bearing to the replacement yoke! It got stuck halfway and I didn’t want to force it ‘unreasonabley’
I can’t throw anymore heat at it because it’s got a built in oil seal! So, because I don’t know anyone with an hydraulic press, I need to find a suitable sized tube to ‘beat it on squarely’ 
I’d kinda gotten used to the ‘clicky’ front end because it tracked truly, unlike before when it used to favour a few degrees to the left or right ‘Unsafe at any speed over 40’ springs to mind!…