So Close!...
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This happens almost immediately! Don’t drop, just dies! I’ll have to do the level check where you use a clear pipe run from the overflow/drain up the side of the carb…
Got my new 57 gudgeon pin but I’m worried about it being so snug. I’m wondering if it was a MM or so short to allow for expansion?…
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Yeah, I think so. The Athena one actually has chamfered edges that mate up tight with the C clips. It’s so tight I think it keeps the C clips in place when it gets hot…
I just spent my afternoon taking off a MM (from my 57MM pin) with an angle grinder. I then had to do the chamfered edge on both sides. I used a fat + head screwdriver, let the pin spin on the end of it against the angle grinder…
Not pretty but it works out OK
…My only wonder is that the pin I have is over twice as heavy as the Athena one. One part of me thinks the extra weight will be ‘torque-y’ when it’s spinning. The other worries about it being out of balance with the balancer shaft! 🤪
Or is it the weight of the crank that it balances?!… -
So it’s the piston that the balancer shaft balance’s? I’d of thought Athena or some other enterprising soul (with access to a lathe) would of made up and sold a batch of ‘big bore balancer bits’ by now!
…I thought it was the crank, for some reason…
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@SpookDog
Mine does vibrate a fair amount on longer rides my hands go numb. It's just something I've learned to live with for the times that I use it. That said, it's my understanding that the Rotax 127 engines, fitted to Aprilia AF1s, didn't even run a balancer shaft 
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
So it’s the piston that the balancer shaft balance’s? I’d of thought Athena or some other enterprising soul (with access to a lathe) would of made up and sold a batch of ‘big bore balancer bits’ by now!
…I thought it was the crank, for some reason…
Or you can use the DT200R 3ET balancer that fits like a glove,but then you are limited to the big bore kit along the heavy gudgeon pin you have.
It's a mod I thought to do but I didn't have the vibrations I expected. -
I like your thinking! Nice idea, cheers bud…
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I kinda thought that the numb fingers was an age thing anyways. I can remember driving Mk1 transit LWB with no power steering & drum brakes back in the 90’s.
Vibration is a minor niggle really Saying that I’d rubber mount the bars if I could!…————————————
Anyone got a spare clutch cable mount that lives on the bottom of the barrel stud that they can post? I’m skint till next Wednesday…
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This post is deleted!
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Damn it! I didn’t realise that there is an oil seal under the 2T pump drive cog, on the inside of the clutch casing. Every other bloody seal is listed apart from that one! 21 x 10 x 5
Got to wait for one to turn up now before I can button up the clutch casing…
I’ve replaced every other seal & bearing, so I’m not going to use the old one!…Sometimes it feels like the ‘Little people’ are fuxin with me! 🧚
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Can you please link me to it? I’ve tried but can’t seem to ‘find anything’
I’d like to know what price is on the kit, as well as what’s included…
I’ve already gotten the casing oil seal. I don’t want to put on any of the pumps I’ve got without giving them a ‘refresh’ though!…
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Don’t worry! I’ve found it 2 minutes later!
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If the rain holds off for the next day or two: I should be able to fit the seals and button up the clutch side. I’ve already prepped it with a hot detergent wash and ‘scrub/brush’ it’s just degrease assemble and fit. Same with the barrel and piston. I’ve already decoked the piston and PV and barrel-exhaust port…
I haven’t found suitable bolts for the reed cage and inlet yet. I won’t fit the top end till that’s fitted and plugged with clean cotton waste…
One good day or two ‘meh!’ days and I’m ready to give the bike a few soaks with shampoo detergent before getting a final jet wash. Then I can swap out the motors while fitting a new (used) rear shock…
I still haven’t finished fitting the bottom headstock bearing to the replacement yoke! It got stuck halfway and I didn’t want to force it ‘unreasonabley’
I can’t throw anymore heat at it because it’s got a built in oil seal! So, because I don’t know anyone with an hydraulic press, I need to find a suitable sized tube to ‘beat it on squarely’ 
I’d kinda gotten used to the ‘clicky’ front end because it tracked truly, unlike before when it used to favour a few degrees to the left or right ‘Unsafe at any speed over 40’ springs to mind!… -
Any tips on fitting the Athena head? Is the inner cap supposed to be a tight or a loose fit? It took a bit of heat to separate it from the outer head-cap. I’d imagine that it’s a ‘good’ fit that is held in place by the rubber seal around the spark plug section?
Be nice to know tho! … -
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At least that was my experience.