So Close!...
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@SpookDog Thanks man
Yes that is a toolbox, it's there because the original DT125RE from the 90s takes a bigger battery than the DTR which occupies the space where the toolkit would normally go on electric start versions. This was my 70,000km '98 3MB French bike (the Starship Enterprise Paris commuting mileage plus some sky/ground style greenlaning by me I guess might explain the cracked swingarm).The bike behind it is the '93 3NC I did the engine rebuild on last year with Top Racing crankshaft, Athena 125cc top end etc. The new owner is very happy with it and reports it is very fast (the Athena 125cc barrel has slightly more aggressive porting than stock). Both sadly gone now, I only rode that bike a few times after the rebuild to make sure it ran properly so never got to test it thoroughly.
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Stumbled across an easy way of getting the C rings out of the lower shock bush! I used a small screwdriver and tapped it down against the ring at a 45* angle, it ‘shocked’ the ring back and up and the screwdriver head slipped underneath it both times! Easy days! Last night’s attempts, I don’t want to talk about though
Age’s spent picking, prying and trying to get leverage!…
‘New’ shock fitted with correct bottom bush…
Edit: tried it on another shock without success. It seems important that the C ring isn’t corroded in place, that it can be tapped around the groove freely. Obvious with hindsight
PS discovered some play in the linkage ‘dog bones’. They are the expensive bushes to replace aren’t they?…
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@SpookDog I hate to tell you this, but the airbox is very difficult to refit with the shock in place (and easy with it removed so hope you haven't done any more since this pic was taken).
RE the linkage bearings, the relay arm needle rollers are quite expensive from Yamaha (£38 ea.) but you can get the same size bearing here:
https://shop.marksman-ind.com/93315-32052-00-equivalent-yamaha-bearing-29446-p.asp
Bushes for the other two linkage pivots (the ones at either end of the tiebars) can be got cheap here:
The part you need from Fowlers etc are the sleeves, someone on eBay sells a complete linkage repair kit which includes them but it's £110 and the sleeves don't have the 2mm holes which enable the grease to pass from the grease nipple, through the bolt and sleeve and into the bearing. So probably best to buy these genuine, the long ones are £26.50 and the relay arm one is £20. Although TBH I've never known these to be excessively worn, if they're close to 20mm OD I'd try the bushes and roller bearing first.
Looking good
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@HOTSHOT-III Is it? I'm sure I get mine in and out no dramas. I always want to have it removed as it serves no purpose on my bike other than a battery holder and a rear mud guard.
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Went in OK!
…Cheers for the links! I can’t remember which of the two linkage ‘pivots’ has all the loose needle roller bearings, but the one that’s showing play is the one that fits to the dogbones (I can see it move up & down clearly) Not the frame one…
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@SpookDog @Calum It may be that I took that view is because the only reason I've ever taken my airbox out is to seal up where the rubber joins the plastic, and I was thinking of your fresh paintwork
Still all good if it went in OK.The bearings at both ends of the tiebars are the ones with plain bushes, the needle roller bearings go where the relay arm attaches to the frame.
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I sure as shit have had problems removing the air box. It was mainly (IIRC!) because the rubber mudguard bolts had seized in so the nuts spun. It wouldn’t let me separate the battery tray section…
Reminds me! I’ve got to epoxy the weird nuts back in place!…
Have a good time this x~mas everyone!…
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I meant the rubber mud flap that ties the air box to the battery tray! But yes, I need many weld~fills, drill & tap fixes all over my frame!
…Slow going:
Every part I go to put back on needs cleaning at least, usually mending and a coat of satin black. I just spent 3 hours on the speedo and rev counter! Oh well, nobody ever said it was going to be easy!
…Pick up, shake head, wire brush, paint! Seems to be my mantra!…
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Cheers Ollie! I PM’d my addy…
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Does anyone have any pics of a bike with the seat & tank off that shows where the wiring loom is supposed to be situated/routed? Big help if possible!
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I fuxin dread this bit! 35 year old wire and all the previous ‘mowners’ tinkering!…
For some reason this is taking a lot longer than I thought it would! I spend more time staring at it than I do assembling it! Then mending & cleaning whatever part I pick up to bolt on!
Anybody want to do a lottery as to when it’s together and riding? How many daze?!
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@SpookDog Here you go bud, hot off the Yamaha presses:
IIRC the biggest PITA is the expansion tank hose where it goes round the back of the airbox, the original tube is shaped to fit around these bends but mine were always knackered so I experimented with various eBay tubes. I think the best results I had were with that clear braided stuff (like garden hose but in about 8mm ID) but even if you stick to this the quality varies, once I had to put some 4mm ID tube inside that to stop it getting kinked.
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Cheers bud! I forgot to fuxin fit that! I’ve actually got a good condition one to go on there. It’s amazing how so many hours work can look like so little progress!
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@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
Cheers Ollie! I PM’d my addy…
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Does anyone have any pics of a bike with the seat & tank off that shows where the wiring loom is supposed to be situated/routed? Big help if possible!
…I fuxin dread this bit! 35 year old wire and all the previous ‘mowners’ tinkering!…
For some reason this is taking a lot longer than I thought it would! I spend more time staring at it than I do assembling it! Then mending & cleaning whatever part I pick up to bolt on!
Anybody want to do a lottery as to when it’s together and riding? How many daze?!
…The loom on the DT125R is on the opposite side,the way you have is for the DT200R.
But it will probably be ok. -
That’s interesting to know. That’s the side it came on when I got the bike. I was just never sure of it…
PS: Is there supposed to be plastic between the air box and the taillight/number plate unit, to protect the frame?…
Edit: WhatTF is it with that expansion chamber pipe that goes from the radiator?! It’s left me feeling kind of ‘compromised’
nasty little fuxor!… -
@SpookDog said in So Close!...:
That’s interesting to know. That’s the side it came on when I got the bike. I was just never sure of it…
PS: Is there supposed to be plastic between the air box and the taillight/number plate unit, to protect the frame?…
Edit: WhatTF is it with that expansion chamber pipe that goes from the radiator?! It’s left me feeling kind of ‘compromised’
nasty little fuxor!…Unfortunately there is no plastic protection for that part of the frame.
It's essential the protection there,a lot of debris hit the frame from the wheel there.
I am designing something for that problem but haven't resourced the right plastic for the job,if I can not find I'll have to weld smaller pieces together.Which pipe do you mean?
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Radiator to expansion tank, the rubber pipe is a bit of a beeyatch
…I’d use the plastic that garages use for their shampoo and other car-wash stuff. White 5 gallon butts…
These things. We used to use them for water when I lived on site…
Very strong and durable. Easy to heat and mold (sp?) to basic curve/shapes, which is all that space needs. Make a form and knock them out on fleabay! … -
@SpookDog That expansion tank tube describes a tortuous route around the top of the airbox yes. Whatever you do don't be tempted to route it underneath the airbox; I've known people to do this and the chain will cut the tube in half when the rear suspension is fully compressed (in fact the upper chain roller stops it from doing this to the airbox).
@MadGyver It would protect the frame if you could design something to fit behind the airbox there. After I wash my bikes I like to throw old towels over the wheels to protect the tyres and brakes, then absolutely saturate places like that area, the front of
and underneath the engine etc. with WD40 to protect the frame, wiring etc., then wipe off the excess. Get loads in the radiator core as those fins are wafer thin and corrode away to powder if you leave salt on them. Doing this also helps the degreaser to cut through the road grime and dirt next time.It can also be beneficial to attach some approximately 10mm thick foam to the lateral ridge on the seat base where it butts up against the top rear of the airbox, this gives the air intake area a little more protection against mud and water ingress. Yamaha did this when the DTR was new but in a bit of an afterthought kind of way; new foam and some 3M VHB double sided tape and nothing will get past it even greenlaning through a swamp.
