** WITH LOADS OF UPGRADES **
-
@Stevie-Wonder I appreciate it's down to individuals taste but I honestly would prefer painted originals to those mis-shapen after market panels. also still amazes me the amount of people still calling the DT125r a DTR 125.
Can't comment on the DT125r casing on a 200 engine because I honestly don't know. Not heard that one before but sounds interesting. -
@markus-w I can only imagine that it's running the 3XP cylinder and crank on a 3MB bottom end.
I mean, it probably goes alright if that's the case.You'll never beat just an OEM Classic DTR IMO.
That did grate me a little to hear it being called a DTR 125, but I guess you wouldn't say "I've got a TZ125R or a TD125R" (granted Yamaha do a TZ and maybe they do an R version
-
-
Yup, some people are laughably serious about themselves and their blue anodizze stuff, lean angle and streetcreditywizness. It takes all sorts to make a world as fucked up as this one
More importantly, where’s your 125dt~R @t? You fixed your overheating problems? Been absent for a while
... -
Oh well on that front not a lot as I blew the 12dt5r up
, cranks seals gone. I was on my way to bike night pulled away from the petrol station on got on the A road and the pffft cough, splutters and other unhealthy sounds whilst chucking out tons of nauseas toxic smelling smoke so much so you could only just see the driver in the car behind before finally giving up and not starting again.Since then I’ve just left her as I’ve not had the money to pay to have her rebuilt or buy the tools and parts to attempt it myself, which I’m very keen to have a crack at doing.
Also what got me was when he said he’s got WR200 springs in there, on conventional WR125 forks
-
@Stevie-Wonder It does look like a 200cc top end of some description judging by the size of the transfer ports and the Y-1 visible on the RH side rules out an Athena 170 kit.
Definitely not WR200 wheels as you can see the rims are stock DT125R chrome.
The pipe bodge is pretty outstanding; it appears to have no mounting points whatsoever besides the cylinder and where it joins the silencer.
Assuming the carburation is at least reasonable I'd like to wish them best of luck running a 428 chain with DT/WR200 power; maybe time to source a chain guard whilst they both still have a left Achilles tendon/crankcase.
Looks to me like someone with a DTR got hold of a 200cc top end and pipe and just toilet-brained it together with a cheap jack-up kit. If this person had been honest with themselves they'd be able to come to terms with the fact that spending £45 on a genuine throttle cable plus £4.99 on a cable oiler and a cheap grease gun would probably result in a better bike. The kickstart squeaked when they unfolded it; FFS how much is a tin of spray grease down the motor factors? Take care of the basics before you start modifying.
Sorry if this sounds snobbish and elitist but seeing stuff like this definitely doesn't make me laugh. The last three years I've had MOT work done on my car I've had to take it straight back due to "fully trained technicians" making toddler-grade mistakes; on one occasion they managed to slice clean through the rubber boot on one of the lower arm ball joints with a stanley knife and just left it; if I hadn't checked it dirt would have got in and wore the joint which then could have separated at speed, causing my unplanned death. But it's absolutely essential (in fact it's the law) that such establishments must at all times between 7.59am and 5.31pm have Radio1 cranking out absolute shit to numb the senses and drive people to total despair. The West used to be a nice place.
-
@HOTSHOT-III said in ** WITH LOADS OF UPGRADES **:
@markus-w @Calum I've never understood people calling the DT125R a DTR125. Still not as bad as Kawasaki adding a fake 2nd radiator shroud to the KMX and calling it the KMX125R though lol
You’re not talking about when people just call it a DTR are you if so I’m youre biggest criminal
KMX’s with fake radiators, I gotta see some pics man
-
@HOTSHOT-III I wouldn’t surprise me if albeit not the prettiest bike it ran pretty well. If it was modified by the guys trying to sell it I wouldn’t trust it for a minute.
However I would trust the logic that nobody’s going to spend a grand (not to mention the time sourcing parts) to bodge it together and have it not run properly. If you have the know how to modify the engine to that extent you also know how to make it run properly or you can afford to pay someone who does.
But then again like ya say if you can’t even be asked to grease your Kickstarter or see the gain of using or care enough to use OEM parts then it says it all.
Unless the guy selling the bike installed them, the average schmuck isn’t gonna think twice when they read something brand new has just been installedEither way it still looks like 3 stolen bikes slammed into one none the less I’d rather see someone by that something like a Sinnis Apache
-
I know it might sound crazy considering I don’t have a crystal ball, but I’m not convinced you’ve ‘blown up’ your bike. It still turns over, yes? Not locked up? White smoke is classic head gasket blown and coolant burning.
I just replaced both my main seals without removing the engine! It’s easy enough bud. So is the head gasket and it costs about45 for genuine seals and 13 for a decent gasket...
Seriously bud, basic tools
...At least strip the top end to check...
-
@SpookDog said in ** WITH LOADS OF UPGRADES **:
I know it might sound crazy considering I don’t have a crystal ball, but I’m not convinced you’ve ‘blown up’ your bike. It still turns over, yes? Not locked up? White smoke is classic head gasket blown and coolant burning.
I just replaced both my main seals without removing the engine! It’s easy enough bud. So is the head gasket and it costs about45 for genuine seals and 13 for a decent gasket...
Seriously bud, basic tools ...At least strip the top end to check...
I know it’s not literally blown up but it’s definitely at a stage where a rebuild is on the cards otherwise it’ll be a case of fixing one thing for another to break as I’ve had the bike 3 years now without a rebuild and that doesn’t factor in the miles done by the last owner in France. Since then it’s been thrashed and for the past year hasn’t had a working speedo so I’ve not kept track of the miles done.
Even if it is just a head gasket gone I feel I’m at a stage where it makes more sense to rebuild the whole thing and start at ground zero so I know how much wear and tear parts etc have had.
Also wouldn’t I have to drop the engine to check the top end and how did you change your main seals without splitting the cases? i think I remember you saying self tapping screws in the old seals to pull them out and then two stroke and some gentle persuasion with a hitty stick?
Also if it was just my head gasket gone after the miles put on the engine wouldn’t that be a sign for a rebuild anywhere even if it where just the top end?
-
@Stevie-Wonder A blown headgasket doesn't necessarily mean you need a top end rebuild. My '98 (same colour as yours, also bought from Tony) was pressurising the cooling system last year causing it to lose IIRC 150ml of coolant every 200 miles. New genuine headgasket fixed it and I carried on riding it for another 8 or 9 months. Interestingly at 65000km, it's the highest mileage DTR ever sold by Unit5 and despite this, when I took the head off and measured the bore it was standard! The previous owner racked up that mileage commuting in and out of Paris year in year out so I guess they must have had so many rebores they eventually had to buy a new barrel.
You can get the top end off with the engine in situ no problem. Also to apply the recommended 22Nm to all 5 cylinder head nuts use the aforementioned 1/4" drive torque wrench; you'll need a 1/4" drive universal joint to reach the one at the front.
I've heard lots of people talk about using self-tapping screws to get the left crank seal out; it should work but you'll need to be very careful to avoid drilling through the main bearing which is just behind the seal. Another thing you could try is, make a hooky thing out of a flat blade screwdriver to lever it out (or just buy a pick set) but you'll have to be very careful to avoid marking the sealing surface of the crankshaft. When I replaced my gearchange shaft seal I had some success cutting small pieces of 1mm Lexan (used for radio control car bodyshells) and pushing that between the seal lips and the shaft before trying to push a tool into the space; it's flexible but tough as old boots.
The RH seal is easier once you've got the clutch and primary gears off as there's a sleeve which fits on the crankshaft and forms the seal so this can just be put to one side. But you will need an impact driver and the home made JIS 8mm bit I described to remove the screws holding the baffle plates on; they're Loctited at the factory and one of them is an M8 thread with 16Nm torque setting so you only get one chance to get it undone. And like we discussed these are some genuine Yamaha screws worth ordering.
If you get the top end off and there's no play in the mains/big end, just doing the headgasket or maybe a rebore might be a good way to get a flavour for doing the whole engine another time. One of the great things about the DTR engine platform is you can replace the crank seals without stripping it; I've heard of some KX engines where the crankcases have a ridge outside the seals so you have to fit them before even dropping in new main bearings to a bare crankcase.
-
@HOTSHOT-III what is that black box in the back?
-
That’s a radiator coolant expansion tank I think...
Unless the main bearings or big end bearings are shot you don’t need to rebuild the bottom end
...
I just popped the stator side seal out with a very small flat head screwdriver, same with the clutch side. My seals were shot even tho the bearings are still good...I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a large Philips screwdriver bit to crack off the big screw-bolts. Using a normal screwdriver always seems to chew them up, badly. The ratchet works proper good tho
give them a sharp hit with a tap-stick first... -
@SpookDog the coolant expansion tank is the same as the non-electric start DTR and is just in front of the tool kit compartment.
@Hybrid_Theory01 It's a separate compartment for the tool kit because the DTR-shape DTRe has a much bigger battery. Funnily enough though when this pic was taken I was running the stock DTR battery packed out with bits of foam to save a bit of weight for off-road riding. It never went flat even though I was using the electric starter!
-
@HOTSHOT-III oh, so the little v shapped metal thing in the frame is for an actual tool box, noticed it on mine but didn´t know it was for that purpose, thank you
-
Damn, I have to carry my tools on the rear rack like a poor person!
I’ve never seen the battery mounted version either. So many bits and bobs missing from my bike. Like the plastic half circle that goes under the headlight unit/ wiring...Can you please tell me what amp-h battery an RE uses as standard? I thought that the Dtr was 6amph but was wrong. It’s more like 3 iirc...
-
@Hybrid_Theory01 said in ** WITH LOADS OF UPGRADES **:
@HOTSHOT-III what is that black box in the back?
+1 to this, what’s the parts code for that little tool box and do you need a different rear rack for it, I’ve seen a few of the frenchies have extra mounting points on their rack which looked like they are for them. I’d love one for mine to keep the odd spark plug, jia screw driver and other bits and pieces to strip the panels and access the factory tool kit.
Also your bike looks so good! It’s convinced me to Chuck my original panels and headlight back on
-
@SpookDog said in ** WITH LOADS OF UPGRADES **:
That’s a radiator coolant expansion tank I think...
Unless the main bearings or big end bearings are shot you don’t need to rebuild the bottom end
...
I just popped the stator side seal out with a very small flat head screwdriver, same with the clutch side. My seals were shot even tho the bearings are still good...I used a 1/4 inch drive ratchet with a large Philips screwdriver bit to crack off the big screw-bolts. Using a normal screwdriver always seems to chew them up, badly. The ratchet works proper good tho
give them a sharp hit with a tap-stick first...Haha yeah I guess so, I always just thought most people did both at once to make life easier rather then trying to squeeze the last few miles out the bottom end before having to pull it apart again.
But I guess cos two strokes are so easy, quick and cheap to sort a top end out on once you got the hang of it there’s no real excuse not to
I’ve got tons of different screwdrivers and jia bits so those screws shouldn’t be too much of an issue. I’ll be investing in an impact driver just to make light work of things like that and to avoid any damage
