Skip to content
  • Recent
  • Tags
  • Popular
  • Users
  • Groups
Skins
  • Light
  • Cerulean
  • Cosmo
  • Flatly
  • Journal
  • Litera
  • Lumen
  • Lux
  • Materia
  • Minty
  • Morph
  • Pulse
  • Sandstone
  • Simplex
  • Sketchy
  • Spacelab
  • United
  • Yeti
  • Zephyr
  • Dark
  • Cyborg
  • Darkly
  • Quartz
  • Slate
  • Solar
  • Superhero
  • Vapor

  • Default (Slate)
  • No Skin
Collapse
Brand Logo

DT125R FORUM

  1. Home
  2. Owners Build Threads
  3. TZR
  4. What was I thinking!…

What was I thinking!…

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved TZR
128 Posts 6 Posters 17.6k Views
  • Oldest to Newest
  • Newest to Oldest
  • Most Votes
Reply
  • Reply as topic
Log in to reply
This topic has been deleted. Only users with topic management privileges can see it.
  • S Offline
    S Offline
    SpookDog
    wrote on last edited by
    #21

    Done it, brute force and a long screwdriver…
    Seal was perished, could peel bits off with my fingernail…

    1 Reply Last reply
    0
    • S Offline
      S Offline
      SpookDog
      wrote on last edited by SpookDog
      #22

      Managed to clean out the crank, bearings & casing by using my Wurth degreasant pump up spray bottle. Filled it with heavily 2T’d petrol, angled the lump up on wooden blocks, and flushed out the whole lot with a steady stream while gently rotating the crank. I made sure the gearbox bearings were oiled. It turns over very quietly with my little finger in the little end of the conrod…
      I’m happy with it…

      S 1 Reply Last reply
      0
      • S SpookDog

        Managed to clean out the crank, bearings & casing by using my Wurth degreasant pump up spray bottle. Filled it with heavily 2T’d petrol, angled the lump up on wooden blocks, and flushed out the whole lot with a steady stream while gently rotating the crank. I made sure the gearbox bearings were oiled. It turns over very quietly with my little finger in the little end of the conrod…
        I’m happy with it…

        S Offline
        S Offline
        SpookDog
        wrote on last edited by SpookDog
        #23

        @Calum @HOTSHOT-III

        There’s a 32mm vhsa dellorto on fleabay for £75
        What do you think?
        Item number:
        275975473343

        HOTSHOT IIIH 1 Reply Last reply
        0
        • S SpookDog

          @Calum @HOTSHOT-III

          There’s a 32mm vhsa dellorto on fleabay for £75
          What do you think?
          Item number:
          275975473343

          HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
          HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
          HOTSHOT III
          wrote on last edited by HOTSHOT III
          #24

          @SpookDog Looks good but what carb do you have on it now? And you'll need to sort some jets for it as the seller says they're missing.

          Can't remember whether yours is a normal UK TZR125R or an Italian market Belgarda, I think the UK ones had a TM28SS similar to the DTR and the Belgarda had the Dell'Orto. There could be differences in the CDI and pipe as well.

          S 1 Reply Last reply
          0
          • HOTSHOT IIIH HOTSHOT III

            @SpookDog Looks good but what carb do you have on it now? And you'll need to sort some jets for it as the seller says they're missing.

            Can't remember whether yours is a normal UK TZR125R or an Italian market Belgarda, I think the UK ones had a TM28SS similar to the DTR and the Belgarda had the Dell'Orto. There could be differences in the CDI and pipe as well.

            S Offline
            S Offline
            SpookDog
            wrote on last edited by SpookDog
            #25

            @HOTSHOT-III

            It’s a UK 1994 Tzr125rr (4hw) it was a small production number 125 model that used the frame from a 3xv Tzr250rr. It doesn’t have the belgarda Alu swingarm or polini alu forks. It has steel ones. Bit of a bitza 🙂 whatever you had left in the parts bin job…

            It didn’t have a carb when I got it. I bought a 28mm Mikuni for it from fleabay a while ago but haven’t tried it yet…

            Good price for the carb?…

            Also it’s listed as a flatslide but the slide body has a round cap?…

            S HOTSHOT IIIH 2 Replies Last reply
            0
            • S SpookDog

              @HOTSHOT-III

              It’s a UK 1994 Tzr125rr (4hw) it was a small production number 125 model that used the frame from a 3xv Tzr250rr. It doesn’t have the belgarda Alu swingarm or polini alu forks. It has steel ones. Bit of a bitza 🙂 whatever you had left in the parts bin job…

              It didn’t have a carb when I got it. I bought a 28mm Mikuni for it from fleabay a while ago but haven’t tried it yet…

              Good price for the carb?…

              Also it’s listed as a flatslide but the slide body has a round cap?…

              S Offline
              S Offline
              SpookDog
              wrote on last edited by SpookDog
              #26

              Different subject! I’m thinking that because it was stood so long and the water pump seal perished, should I change the main crank seals while its out? I only have a new set of soft rubber OEM ones (the genuine ones seem harder/stiffer)
              I’ve changed both sides before on these lumps without splitting the cases…

              I need an RE flywheel puller though. I only have a kickstart model one…

              I know that it’s not any kind of guarantee, but it only has 10.5k miles on the clock. I’m wondering whether to leave the originals in…

              1 Reply Last reply
              0
              • MadGyverM Offline
                MadGyverM Offline
                MadGyver
                wrote on last edited by
                #27

                @SpookDog If I were you I would change every seals in the engine.If it was sitting for so long don't trust them even with low miles.

                I need my tools and a pile of junk.....

                S 1 Reply Last reply
                1
                • S SpookDog

                  @HOTSHOT-III

                  It’s a UK 1994 Tzr125rr (4hw) it was a small production number 125 model that used the frame from a 3xv Tzr250rr. It doesn’t have the belgarda Alu swingarm or polini alu forks. It has steel ones. Bit of a bitza 🙂 whatever you had left in the parts bin job…

                  It didn’t have a carb when I got it. I bought a 28mm Mikuni for it from fleabay a while ago but haven’t tried it yet…

                  Good price for the carb?…

                  Also it’s listed as a flatslide but the slide body has a round cap?…

                  HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
                  HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
                  HOTSHOT III
                  wrote on last edited by
                  #28

                  @SpookDog The Dell'Orto looks good for the money but the UK TZR125R 4HW ran the TM28SS as per DTR with a few minor changes so if you have one I'd stick with that. A lot of two-stroke tuners run into problems bolting on bigger carbs as it tends to reduce low-end power without really improving the top end.

                  I always preferred the UK version to the Belgarda TBH, smiley face headlight makes it look identical to the V-Twin TZR250. I have a TZR125R Service Information book I downloaded for free on PDF; it's in French but maybe @Calum or someone can advise me whether it's possible to upload it onto here.

                  Also agree with @MadGyver ; change every seal in the engine if it's been stood for any length of time. Koyo gearbox bearings are pretty cheap from PJME and at the risk of banging on about the virtues of the Top Racing/Jasil crankshaft, a French company makes an adapter so you can run one in a DTRe engine. It's just a thin cone-shaped piece of steel which fits onto the crank taper before the DTRe flywheel, and has a slot so it can fit over the woodruff key:

                  https://aeb-developpement.com/boutique/dtr-125-200-tdr-3xd/composants-du-bas-moteur/adaptateur-pour-montage-vilo-dtr-sur-un-moteur-a-demarreur-electrique-tdr-tzr-dtx/

                  To remove the DTRe flywheel I think you need a harmonic balance puller like this one:

                  https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/clarke-cht698-46-piece-harmonic-balance-puller/

                  1 Reply Last reply
                  0
                  • MadGyverM MadGyver

                    @SpookDog If I were you I would change every seals in the engine.If it was sitting for so long don't trust them even with low miles.

                    S Offline
                    S Offline
                    SpookDog
                    wrote on last edited by SpookDog
                    #29

                    Cheers guys, it’s just I only have cheap OEM (SKF & some I’ve not heard of) seals to throw at this. I am dust poor. I’ve never been able to afford dirt 😛
                    Then again, they may not have the lifespan of genuine seals but they will work for as long as I need them to. (I had a set in for 20K miles in the Dtr) They can always be changed out later…

                    Just thought I’d check the air box to carb rubber size. It fits a 28 Mikuni. No way it’d fit the dellorto. I was led to believe that my bike took a 32 dellorto, iirc. I guess not…

                    The 28mm I got has a different needle & tube than the dtr. Haven’t checked the valve cutaway yet, but I’m confident it’s good for the motor…

                    HOTSHOT IIIH 1 Reply Last reply
                    1
                    • S SpookDog

                      Just whipped of the pump cover and oil has filled up in there. Hopefully past the seal! 🤞 …

                      Edit:
                      Removed the clutch casing.
                      The gasket is perfect. I’m gonna check out the pump seal next. I can’t imagine oil getting past it but this motor might of been sitting for 10 years for all I know. There was oil in the impeller anyways…

                      PS any tip on removing the water pump seal? She doesn’t want to move 😐

                      CalumC Offline
                      CalumC Offline
                      Calum
                      wrote on last edited by
                      #30

                      @SpookDog Remove the water pump and tap it out from behind.

                      Split the cases and do a rebuild on an unknown engine. Get her PHRESH!

                      Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                      1 Reply Last reply
                      1
                      • S SpookDog

                        Cheers guys, it’s just I only have cheap OEM (SKF & some I’ve not heard of) seals to throw at this. I am dust poor. I’ve never been able to afford dirt 😛
                        Then again, they may not have the lifespan of genuine seals but they will work for as long as I need them to. (I had a set in for 20K miles in the Dtr) They can always be changed out later…

                        Just thought I’d check the air box to carb rubber size. It fits a 28 Mikuni. No way it’d fit the dellorto. I was led to believe that my bike took a 32 dellorto, iirc. I guess not…

                        The 28mm I got has a different needle & tube than the dtr. Haven’t checked the valve cutaway yet, but I’m confident it’s good for the motor…

                        HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
                        HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
                        HOTSHOT III
                        wrote on last edited by HOTSHOT III
                        #31

                        @SpookDog SKF are good oil seals, and a lot of people use the £25 Yambits engine seal kit with no issues. As long as they're new they should last a fair while.

                        Just had a read through my TZR-R 4HW service information and the TM28SS jet sizes are:

                        Main #210
                        Emulsion tube P-2
                        Needle 5H38-2, 4th clip position from top
                        Pilot #17.5

                        It doesn't mention power jet size or slide cutaway but the slide has a 3XV part number on Fowlers so the same as the V-Twin TZR250.

                        So I guess pilot jet from @markus-w 's eBay source and Allens Performance can probably order the emulsion tube and needle if you want to try them.

                        Ignition advance curve looks very different to the DTR as well, the 3MB is very linear in comparison. I think the 4HW is like this to make it stronger at higher RPM, like between 8-12k whereas the 3MB curve is probably meant to deliver a wider spread of power which is better suited to off-road riding. So from what I can see the 4HW is designed to rev to these kinds of speeds where a good 3MB tops out at around 10,500.

                        alt text

                        alt text

                        The 3-wire servo also has a 4FL part number on Fowlers so the onboard computer inside it is probably different to the 3MB servo, again to maximise efficiency at higher engine speeds I'd imagine. The PV operating at a different engine speed to the 3MB could explain the strange trough in advance between 5.5-6.5k RPM.

                        With all this in mind I'd definitely start with stock 4HW jetting and a new or rebuilt crankshaft. IIRC these also had a plated bore (in common with the V-twin) which manufacturers had to move towards for more efficient heat transfer into the water jacket on two-strokes in a higher state of tune (for example the parrallel twin TZR250 had steel liners whereas the RGV250 and KR1-S both ran plated bores and made a lot more power than the PT TZR250). So maybe bear this in mind as well. Not 100% sure on all this (it's been a while) so I'll have a read of A. Graham Bell later if I get time.

                        S 1 Reply Last reply
                        1
                        • HOTSHOT IIIH HOTSHOT III

                          @SpookDog SKF are good oil seals, and a lot of people use the £25 Yambits engine seal kit with no issues. As long as they're new they should last a fair while.

                          Just had a read through my TZR-R 4HW service information and the TM28SS jet sizes are:

                          Main #210
                          Emulsion tube P-2
                          Needle 5H38-2, 4th clip position from top
                          Pilot #17.5

                          It doesn't mention power jet size or slide cutaway but the slide has a 3XV part number on Fowlers so the same as the V-Twin TZR250.

                          So I guess pilot jet from @markus-w 's eBay source and Allens Performance can probably order the emulsion tube and needle if you want to try them.

                          Ignition advance curve looks very different to the DTR as well, the 3MB is very linear in comparison. I think the 4HW is like this to make it stronger at higher RPM, like between 8-12k whereas the 3MB curve is probably meant to deliver a wider spread of power which is better suited to off-road riding. So from what I can see the 4HW is designed to rev to these kinds of speeds where a good 3MB tops out at around 10,500.

                          alt text

                          alt text

                          The 3-wire servo also has a 4FL part number on Fowlers so the onboard computer inside it is probably different to the 3MB servo, again to maximise efficiency at higher engine speeds I'd imagine. The PV operating at a different engine speed to the 3MB could explain the strange trough in advance between 5.5-6.5k RPM.

                          With all this in mind I'd definitely start with stock 4HW jetting and a new or rebuilt crankshaft. IIRC these also had a plated bore (in common with the V-twin) which manufacturers had to move towards for more efficient heat transfer into the water jacket on two-strokes in a higher state of tune (for example the parrallel twin TZR250 had steel liners whereas the RGV250 and KR1-S both ran plated bores and made a lot more power than the PT TZR250). So maybe bear this in mind as well. Not 100% sure on all this (it's been a while) so I'll have a read of A. Graham Bell later if I get time.

                          S Offline
                          S Offline
                          SpookDog
                          wrote on last edited by
                          #32

                          @HOTSHOT-III

                          Thank you for some truly useful information. I take my hat off! 😎

                          The carb I bought for it has a 38 on the needle or emulsion tube IIRC. The 210 & 17.5 sounds familiar as well. I’ll dig it out and check in a mo…

                          I’ve got a 3mb-p barrel @ head freshly re~bored to go on it. A 4fu is standard I believe. I think the reason for nicasil lining is more to do with cost of production than anything (the heat transfer is tiny and irrelevant IMO when you trade it off for ‘serviceability’). I’d personally rather have a cast iron liner. I’m planning on getting one of my 4fu barrels relined by PJME at some point when I have a spare £150. Match the porting to the CDI & power valve that are on the bike (thanks again for the info!!) Thank fux that it’s all there apart from the seat & lower fairing plastics! 😗…

                          1 Reply Last reply
                          1
                          • S Offline
                            S Offline
                            SpookDog
                            wrote on last edited by SpookDog
                            #33

                            My carb is:

                            505 P-2 on the emulsion tube

                            5H 38 on the needle

                            1mm cutaway on the slide valve

                            210 main jet

                            17.5 pilot jet

                            I think I got lucky on the carb I bought 🙂 wasn’t too bad @ under £50 IIRC
                            Thanks again, again! That’s given me some peace of mind…

                            PS I’ve got an harmonic balancer puller coming so I can get to and replace the crank seal on that side…

                            In an ideal life, I’d replace every single bearing, seal and gasket. The thing is that this is a shoestring budget. I’ll do everything I can not to make the same mistakes as I did when I built the Dt. Considering it was the first bike I’ve worked on or owned in over 25 years, I’m not gonna beat myself up…

                            Thing is, this isn’t a restoration. It’s a resuscitation!! 💀🃏🐾

                            S 1 Reply Last reply
                            1
                            • S SpookDog

                              My carb is:

                              505 P-2 on the emulsion tube

                              5H 38 on the needle

                              1mm cutaway on the slide valve

                              210 main jet

                              17.5 pilot jet

                              I think I got lucky on the carb I bought 🙂 wasn’t too bad @ under £50 IIRC
                              Thanks again, again! That’s given me some peace of mind…

                              PS I’ve got an harmonic balancer puller coming so I can get to and replace the crank seal on that side…

                              In an ideal life, I’d replace every single bearing, seal and gasket. The thing is that this is a shoestring budget. I’ll do everything I can not to make the same mistakes as I did when I built the Dt. Considering it was the first bike I’ve worked on or owned in over 25 years, I’m not gonna beat myself up…

                              Thing is, this isn’t a restoration. It’s a resuscitation!! 💀🃏🐾

                              S Offline
                              S Offline
                              SpookDog
                              wrote on last edited by
                              #34

                              Got the puller and got the flywheel off. Got the crank seals out, I can see nothing wrong with the bearings and there’s no movement, I don’t like the sound of them though. I’m not an expert and have nothing to compare them with. There is a regular beat/change in noise to them that I don’t like though. I’ve got a new pair of Koyo bearings that I’m gonna put in them once I’ve had the run-out checked on the crank…

                              S 1 Reply Last reply
                              0
                              • S SpookDog

                                Got the puller and got the flywheel off. Got the crank seals out, I can see nothing wrong with the bearings and there’s no movement, I don’t like the sound of them though. I’m not an expert and have nothing to compare them with. There is a regular beat/change in noise to them that I don’t like though. I’ve got a new pair of Koyo bearings that I’m gonna put in them once I’ve had the run-out checked on the crank…

                                S Offline
                                S Offline
                                SpookDog
                                wrote on last edited by
                                #35

                                Can the flywheel puller be used to split the crank casings?…

                                1 Reply Last reply
                                0
                                • CalumC Offline
                                  CalumC Offline
                                  Calum
                                  wrote on last edited by
                                  #36

                                  I have never needed it, a slight tap with a rubber mallet sorts it out.

                                  But you should be able to apply some pressure to the crank end to ease off the cases.

                                  Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                                  S 1 Reply Last reply
                                  0
                                  • CalumC Calum

                                    I have never needed it, a slight tap with a rubber mallet sorts it out.

                                    But you should be able to apply some pressure to the crank end to ease off the cases.

                                    S Offline
                                    S Offline
                                    SpookDog
                                    wrote on last edited by
                                    #37

                                    @Calum

                                    I’ve seen some casings that have been chiselled apart! I’ve been guilty of the same in my yoof, I don’t doubt 🥴

                                    I put a little bit of pressure on it then tapped the cases with a hubber rammer, it popped apart lovely. Only wish I could of left both bearings in the casings. I did try heating the tight bearing to get it to let go of the crank. No joy tho’ 🙂 I just need to get a ‘clamshell’ bearing puller now. No more levering away with flathead screwdrivers!…

                                    I really need to start prioritising the two bikes now. I’ve got everything to rebuild a tight, righteous motor for the Dtr, but I want to strip, dip & coat the frame, ect. As well as making a new loom. I really need to get the Tzr running and throw an mot at it to make a daily while I work out the Dtr. I think I’m gonna have to keep limping along the leperous motor that’s in the Dtr some more. It hasn’t stranded me yet in over 25K smiles 🙂…

                                    S 1 Reply Last reply
                                    0
                                    • S SpookDog

                                      @Calum

                                      I’ve seen some casings that have been chiselled apart! I’ve been guilty of the same in my yoof, I don’t doubt 🥴

                                      I put a little bit of pressure on it then tapped the cases with a hubber rammer, it popped apart lovely. Only wish I could of left both bearings in the casings. I did try heating the tight bearing to get it to let go of the crank. No joy tho’ 🙂 I just need to get a ‘clamshell’ bearing puller now. No more levering away with flathead screwdrivers!…

                                      I really need to start prioritising the two bikes now. I’ve got everything to rebuild a tight, righteous motor for the Dtr, but I want to strip, dip & coat the frame, ect. As well as making a new loom. I really need to get the Tzr running and throw an mot at it to make a daily while I work out the Dtr. I think I’m gonna have to keep limping along the leperous motor that’s in the Dtr some more. It hasn’t stranded me yet in over 25K smiles 🙂…

                                      S Offline
                                      S Offline
                                      SpookDog
                                      wrote on last edited by
                                      #38

                                      Anybody know about upside down fork stantion replacement? Can the aluminium bottoms be separated from the chromed steel tubes? Or are they fixed? Cheers…

                                      CalumC HOTSHOT IIIH 2 Replies Last reply
                                      0
                                      • S SpookDog

                                        Anybody know about upside down fork stantion replacement? Can the aluminium bottoms be separated from the chromed steel tubes? Or are they fixed? Cheers…

                                        CalumC Offline
                                        CalumC Offline
                                        Calum
                                        wrote on last edited by Calum
                                        #39

                                        @SpookDog they must be separable. Whether they are threaded on or pressed on 🤷

                                        Always Originate, Never Pirate!

                                        1 Reply Last reply
                                        1
                                        • S SpookDog

                                          Anybody know about upside down fork stantion replacement? Can the aluminium bottoms be separated from the chromed steel tubes? Or are they fixed? Cheers…

                                          HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
                                          HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
                                          HOTSHOT III
                                          wrote on last edited by HOTSHOT III
                                          #40

                                          @SpookDog In the 90s I replaced a USD fork stanchion on a GSX-R400 GK76A with 41mm Kayaba forks. They were threaded into the axle boss with an O-ring seal and required a lot of heat to undo; 41mm x 3.142 = 129mm of contact area per thread which dwarfs even an M10 or M12 bolt and they were fitted with very strong Loctite (IIRC I used JB Weld on reassembly, the 24-hours-to-cure type). Being an adolescent with a number of other rather costly hobbies (ahem) I neglected to match up the O-ring and just rooted through my spares until I found one which looked the same; admittedly a bit twattish but in my defence it was a long time ago, I was very young and we didn't have Simply Bearings etc. back then. Still the forks worked and were oil tight afterwards so all's well that ends well I guess
                                          😇🤞

                                          It gave me some ideas though; theoretically you could get something like a 1990 RM250 with the same size USD fork stanchions and give it a twin disc front end with GSX-R axle bosses, 4-pot calipers, XS650 hub, dustbin lid-sized rotors, 17" rim etc. for the ultimate long-travel Supermoto front end. At which point you might like to install an RG500 engine to get your money's worth from the front brake.

                                          alt text

                                          Are the forks on your TZR Paoli? If so I think the stanchions would still be threaded into the axle bosses TBH as it's probably just the most convenient way to attach a steel tube to an alloy casting and achieve a sealed joint.

                                          S 1 Reply Last reply
                                          1
                                          Reply
                                          • Reply as topic
                                          Log in to reply
                                          • Oldest to Newest
                                          • Newest to Oldest
                                          • Most Votes


                                          • Login

                                          • Don't have an account? Register

                                          • Login or register to search.
                                          • First post
                                            Last post
                                          0
                                          • Recent
                                          • Tags
                                          • Popular
                                          • Users
                                          • Groups