Runs with choke
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I know it’s correct for the year mate but remember I got Boyseen dual stage reeds, Reed spacer, dep pipe and forgot to mention I got snorkel removed as didn’t come with one with the bike, I’ll check tomorrow with spray in some areas around carb etc to see if it revs higher
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so I bought the bike non running, mate got brand new top end for it, was running but same problem revs hanging, then when went to sell it wouldn’t start, the video I saw from the bike engine didn’t sound to healthy, so thought I’d take it all apart when I got into it the main bearing race was all broken so that’s why it sounded notchy, lucky I did as that could of ended bad if it seized. So rebuilt the whole engine, it sounds lovely now, the issue for not starting when I got it from him was faulty coil pack. I’ll try the spray tomorrow and report back thanks @SpookDog
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You’ve had the carb apart though? Cause you know the jet sizes? When I got my bike it had 1988 26mm jet sizes (180 main 20 pilot) fitted into a late 90s~2000 carb that used totally different 240 main.25 pilot. Just because the previous owner thought it was right, and I never knew better
…I went through every combination of jet years!
Thing is it’s not the year of the engine that matter, it’s the year of the carb. I blew head gaskets every 700miles for two years because I had too small a pilot jet, then a proper jet that was partially blocked with hard varnish/deposit. I wouldn’t of believed a pilot could cause such mayhem if I hadn’t lived it myself!!…
There are a couple ‘tell-tales’ that help you year your carb, I’ll look in the Haynes when I get home later on and post them…
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What I’m saying is they made 2 or 3 different Mikuni flatslide carbs, each with its own jetting. Mine is 240 main .25 pilot. Put a 210 & .225 in and it doesn’t like it!
You might have a later carb that a previous owner put earlier jets into… -
Whereabouts? I’ve got a slightly enlarged.25 & a 250 main you could try. If you do have the later carb the .25 airscrew is supposed to be 1 & 1/4 turns out. I’d try your setup at 1/2 to 3/4 turns…
I bounce between blandford and Poole…
PS I got a good copy jet at sportax racing. Couldn’t find a genuine in the UK
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Update:
Took the carb apart again, checked float height 16mm
Everything is perfect emulsion tube is missing an o ring, all the kits I see don’t come with one, but on my other dtr carb it has one. Where is best to get a rebuild kit that actually is decent rather than the Chinese cheap stuff? My needle is also bent, what needle code has everyone got?
Thank you,After that if nothing has changed then the left hand side seal has gone already I’m taking it even only being just fitted maybe the cheaper seals don’t last at all
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Little update: changed pilot jet from 22.5 all the way to 27.5 and no difference in running without choke, air screw not doing anything, put the needle to the richest possible still nothing, so it’s got to be an air leak only place now is the left hand side crank seal, I’ve replaced them all but they was only eBay ones so could be that, so gone with viton high quality one now.
What is the float height guys for the TM28ss? It’s at 16mm at the moment
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If it’s your first time fitting them you may of fuxed up the inner spring or not seated them level. I’ve done it myself, more than once. You don’t have to split the cases to replace them…
I need to reread your thread to see what carb you have fitted. My memory is not wot it used to be
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2004 onwards:
1DO I.D. mark
210 main
17.5 pilot
5J40 needle 2nd clip from Top
Q2M (938) emulsion tube
2.8 throttle slide cutaway
15.5 ~ 16.5 float heightYou may have an earlier carb though. Check the marks your needle & tube have on them…
The earlier one is:
I.D. 3MB00210 main
22.5 pilot
5J25 needle 4th groove from Top
Q-2 tube
2.5 throttle slide cutawayTry and suss out what carb you have by the slide cutaway. It’s stamped on it somewhere…
I may have a needle you can borrow to try swapping out. Let me know the markings on yours & slide…
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Thanks @SpookDog
My needle is NJ25
I’ve copied all them settings for my carb and still the same runs good with choke but soon as you turn it off it revs high then dies so definitely a lean state.I’ve ordered a viton crank seal now as I bet it’s that. Being cheap quality this one must of some how broke in the process of install.
As the air screw doesn’t change anything so got to be an airleak there as no where else it could be, as all the other gaskets, are
OEM from fowlers headgasket
And the rest of the gaskets are Vertex so decent
I just ordered a seal kit from eBay for £20 for the lot so that probably explains why the crank seal has gone already lol. These nitrile ones are not strong and no good with fuel I’ve heard.Other seal is arriving Tuesday/ Wednesday so I’ll update you then.
All the best everyone and thank you
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I inadvertently dimpled the side of my seal when I fitted it. I used a flathead screwdriver and was careful, but the contact area you want to hit is only about 1mm of the outermost edge. I only ever use an old seal as a buffer now and use a tube
Good luck… -
Got the flywheel off this evening and just as we suspected, crank seal failed, lesson learnt! Got new one coming tomorrow
Someone’s had a little go before and marked the outside of casing, I drill a little hole, screw a screw in and pull the old seal out. Lucky inside is fine
EDIT: when putting new one in i’m going to do what you said @SpookDog use this old one as a “buffer” would you say to put a little oil on the inner so it doesn’t ruin the lip?
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Red rubber grease is the best I recon…
Yep, make sure the casing is clean ally, no white oxidation or crud. Then anything that helps it slip in easily. Then push it in with your thumbs. Then gentle, even tapping. It’s so easy to distort the seals ‘face’ and sealing lips
Good luck bud! You’ll get there…Just re-looked at the pic. That’s pretty much what happened to me. Hell of a learning curve. I did it to fork seals as well! 🥴 What did you use, a socket, or extension bar?…
