Dtr125re 2006 randomly stopped working
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So your gonna have to bare with me here,Got a dtr125 2006 around August 2024.Rode it for a while but it blew up.scratched barrel ect so got a new barrel and piston(December).Up to this point I had no problems other than the bike taking a minute to start up when cold,when warm it would start with a click of the button.Then last week I tried to start it after riding it to my friends house with no problems,The bike wouldn’t start so I left it over night and returned the next day with a new spark plug (br9es) and replace it started nearly instantly (whilst on the side stand).I then rode it to my girlfriends house once again no problems left it for an hour or so then rode it for under 5 minutes and turnt it off to run into a shop.went back 5 mins later the bike wouldn’t turn on.so I replaced the brand new spark plug with another new one.it turnt on instantly again and I rode it home with no problems.same thing again went out the next day and it wouldn’t start(When it won’t start it turns over but doesn’t start up) and it wouldn’t catch at all and the spark was only working when I released the start button .so I replaced the ignition coil yesterday and it fired up instantly ran for a minute or 2 and I tried increasing the revs slightly leading to it dying.since then I haven’t been able to get it to start however it is often catching.
Before the new ignition coil but after the problem had arisen for the final and current time,the bike wouldn’t spark unless let go when the side stand was down but now does with the new ignition coil.
It also has what I assume is the killswitch bypassed as there are 2 exposed cables on my handle which when separated the started won’t even engage.
Not sure whether it’s relevant but the power valve is pinned open and doesn’t have a servo.
Everytime I’ve tried I’ve charged the battery up to max,and have either had the choke on or played about with it to see if that was the problem.Anyone have any idea what’s going on and what I could t try to get the bike going?
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Anyone have any idea what’s going on and what I could t try to get the bike going?
I think this is probably your problem. Instead of addressing the issue which caused your bike to fail the first time around, it sounds (going from your description) that all you're interested in is getting it going again, which unfortunately, on a 19 year old bike, probably isn't enough.
Why did it fail the first time round? Once you understand that, you'll be in a better position to address the follow on issues.
What made you think it was a coil? Did you measure the impedance between the primary and secondary coil and it was out of tolerance? What were those measurements? Did you replace with a genuine 3RM coil? Those Chinese aftermarket ones are only worth throwing in the bin, they do not work!
It sounds like there are two issues here, one is sounding ominously electrical, the other clearly mechanical and until you strip the bike down to investigate and eliminate you'll continue to have problems.
The DTRE in stock trim is an incredibly reliable machine, but that said 20k and you'll going to want to do some TLC overhauls.
The engine failed last year and damaged the barrel, well there is no real reason it would do that unless the maintenance schedule wasn't adhered to. Or the oil pump failed. The problem with the latter is throwing a new piston/barrel at the problem doesn't fix anything and is money wasted. If it was just worn rings and you were hammering it then that's just lack of maintenance.
I could throw you a whole raft of potential solutions but sounds like your bike is a bit of a basket case.
Because of this there is likely a whole host of things that your bike could be missing and botched so diagnosing is a bit of a rabbit hole. My advice put the bike back to factory OEM spec and go from there.
Why do the plugs keep failing? Are they black sooty? Has the oil pump failed and just throwing copious amounts of oil at the engine fouling plugs, is it because there is no YPVS and it's thrown the settings off.
But throwing in some simple checks, probably:
- Neutral Switch/Clutch Switch/Side Stand Switch
- A combination of this will cause the bike to start in neutral, but kill the engine if in gear is detected.
- Ignition Barrel
- Aftermarket ignition barrels corrode and break down and result in erratic behaviour
- Ignition Coild Fly Lead
- As above
- Faulty CDI
- As above
- Lazy battery/Faulty Stator
- The engine requires power to run, if the stator is failing or not being rectified correctly then you'll find problems running
I can go on, but really you want to tear the bike down, do a compression check, make sure the engine is healthy, that the airways are clear, exhaust, intake, airbox etc. Carb isn't blocked.
- Neutral Switch/Clutch Switch/Side Stand Switch
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@Calum
So when I tested the ignition coil I was getting a reading of around 4 ohms and from what I’ve read on here it should be closer if not above 12 however I may have fallen into the trap of getting a Chinese ignition coil as it definitely isn’t an original one but was on the same website as the original and was more expensive stating it was a better version of the original so that may be a problem although it is sparking a strong blue spark
️.I have closed the side stand at the connector coming from the sensor and the kill switch was already removed and the cables are already twisted together.
The mechanic I got to replace the barrel had told me that the bike was most likely ran without oil before I owned it as I had only done 20 or so miles on it with oil in the reservoir which works which caused the scratches on the barrel and he replaced the barrel and piston so was done professionally.
I’ve taken my carb of already and cleaned it with compressed air and have verified the intake airbox and exhaust are clear
The battery is the original but brand new and the stator seems to be working as when running the battery charges and lights become brighter.
As for a faulty cdi how would I go about testing that and what should I test on the new ignition coil to see if it varies from the original.
And whilst it may seem like I am only trying to get it going I am not I have only owned a 50cc moped before this bike so the bike starting back up is the main way I’ve been seeing if I’ve made a difference as from what I can gather I have a good spark good compression good fuel and good air which just doesn’t make sense to me.I am going to go outside now and try start it up and record me doing so,so that you may be able to see if there is something I am missing or overlooking
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If the original ignition coil was faulty, replace it with a 3RM genuine one. I fought this battle when I rebuilt my DTRE and then put it into storage. Years later when I got it out of storage, and everything was new on it, it took me ages to realise it was the non-genuine coil.
I was having neighon similar symptoms. It would run from cold then, after a short ride, wouldn't rev.
I only realised it was the ignition coil when my brother's RD350 was fitted with the same type and the mechanic scoughed at it saying how they basically get saturated with voltage and can never recover. So once they're depleted they provide a weak spark.
So as I say, that would be my first port of call.
