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DT125R FORUM

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  4. DT125R 2002 Won't start for love of god

DT125R 2002 Won't start for love of god

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved DTR
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  • C
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    Croeternal
    wrote last edited by
    #2

    Here is link to couple fo videos how it runs/doesn't..
    https://gofile.io/d/NdQhLVbX

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    • C
      C
      Croeternal
      wrote last edited by
      #3

      Forgot to mention reed valves are also good no cracks sit nice and tight, bought repair kit for carb waiting for that to come and also bought some cheap carb link down below, as far as i can tell everything in carb is original, has athene aftermarket exhaust.. https://www.motor-x.com/p/carburetor-moretti-parts-yamaha-dt-125

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      • CalumC
        CalumC
        Calum
        wrote last edited by
        #4

        It's in my experience that my DTR never started without choke, so that's normal. It needs to get to temperature and then you can remove the choke.

        Sounds like you need to strip and clean your carburetor, based off what you've just said.

        It could be float level height if it's just shutting the fuel off before it's even getting a chance to get into the bowl.

        Strip the carb, removing the atomiser and properly clean the carburetor in and out, being careful not to damage it as the components are brass and delicate.

        The engines are very basic and provided you've got compression, spark and fuel ,it'll run.

        If you can confirm that it's got spark and fuel, then check the compression for the engine, should get around 140PSI. Anything below 90 PSI and your engine is going to need an overhaul.

        Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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        • CalumC Calum

          It's in my experience that my DTR never started without choke, so that's normal. It needs to get to temperature and then you can remove the choke.

          Sounds like you need to strip and clean your carburetor, based off what you've just said.

          It could be float level height if it's just shutting the fuel off before it's even getting a chance to get into the bowl.

          Strip the carb, removing the atomiser and properly clean the carburetor in and out, being careful not to damage it as the components are brass and delicate.

          The engines are very basic and provided you've got compression, spark and fuel ,it'll run.

          If you can confirm that it's got spark and fuel, then check the compression for the engine, should get around 140PSI. Anything below 90 PSI and your engine is going to need an overhaul.

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          Croeternal
          wrote last edited by
          #5

          @Calum i bought psi gauge today but i wont be near bike till saturday, so i guess thats when i will update on numbers regarding compression, bought also new coil just incase, and have spare cdi on hand so we will see thanks for info!

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          • CalumC
            CalumC
            Calum
            wrote last edited by
            #6

            Only use genuine coils. The cheap orange ones simply don't work so make sure it's a genuine one.

            Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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            • CalumC Calum

              Only use genuine coils. The cheap orange ones simply don't work so make sure it's a genuine one.

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              Croeternal
              wrote last edited by
              #7

              @Calum bought replacment coil as there wasnt any original, currently orange one is in, rebuild carb changed everything other then air mixture screw as it didnt come in kit. Starts runs poorly on idle same as before but little better and when touching throtle it dies i tried turning the screw milimiter by milimiter no luck, needle was at 3rd point from bottom i moved it to 2nd one same thing, throtle valve is a little worn on the idle screw where it touches the screw like a small dent but i dont think that should be causing this much of an issues, compression is at 130psi so that should be all right if anyone has any idea feel free to suggest im going crazy here

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              • CalumC
                CalumC
                Calum
                wrote last edited by
                #8

                I never could get my DTR to run on those shite orange coils.

                https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt125r-1999-3rmd-germany-293rm332ga_model39887/ignition-coil-assy_3rw8231010/

                There is a genuine coil brand new stock there.

                I found that the bike would idle but refuse to rev and cut out. Rode it back from Wales like this back to Cheltenham, couldn't rev past 4k, was a nightmare.

                So lesson learned on that one sadly. My brother had EXACTLY the same problem with these type of coils on his RD350. So it could be something as simple as that.

                Make sure you've got good earths to the frame as well. Has the frame been powdercoated recently or anylike that?

                Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                • CalumC Calum

                  I never could get my DTR to run on those shite orange coils.

                  https://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-dt125r-1999-3rmd-germany-293rm332ga_model39887/ignition-coil-assy_3rw8231010/

                  There is a genuine coil brand new stock there.

                  I found that the bike would idle but refuse to rev and cut out. Rode it back from Wales like this back to Cheltenham, couldn't rev past 4k, was a nightmare.

                  So lesson learned on that one sadly. My brother had EXACTLY the same problem with these type of coils on his RD350. So it could be something as simple as that.

                  Make sure you've got good earths to the frame as well. Has the frame been powdercoated recently or anylike that?

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                  Croeternal
                  wrote last edited by
                  #9

                  @Calum where should i look for earth? Bikes was bought from 15yr that used zipties for everything from coil to servo of valve... so i woudnt be suprised if it was earth even.. here the link where am at now https://gofile.io/d/HHUZA4pa i don't think its carb issue cause at every setting on needle and on air screw result is pretty much the same, if it was carb i would expect it to run poorly or rev high or something but thats not the case here..

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                  • C Croeternal

                    @Calum where should i look for earth? Bikes was bought from 15yr that used zipties for everything from coil to servo of valve... so i woudnt be suprised if it was earth even.. here the link where am at now https://gofile.io/d/HHUZA4pa i don't think its carb issue cause at every setting on needle and on air screw result is pretty much the same, if it was carb i would expect it to run poorly or rev high or something but thats not the case here..

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                    Croeternal
                    wrote last edited by
                    #10

                    Also i dont know if it matters i dont have battery inside of it

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                    • CalumC
                      CalumC
                      Calum
                      wrote last edited by
                      #11

                      You don't need a battery but you'll want a battery.

                      Yeah, looks a bit of a basket case that bike and you're asking us to make wild guesses when it could be anything.

                      You've not running a snorkel, that engine does not sound crisp at all, you can tell it's swamped with air and it's struggling.

                      Without a battery you're relying on the generator making sufficient power to do all the lights and make 20'000 volts at the spark plug lead, coupled with the poor wiring, bad earths and the second rate coil, it's no wonder it's not running right.

                      You need to get yourself a battery.

                      Sort the wiring out
                      Get a genuine coil on there
                      Get a genuine snorkel fitted

                      https://ebay.io/m/cHVjjv

                      Make sure you got good grounding from the chasis to the negative terminals.

                      Search on this forum for the wiring diagrams as there are many different grounding points, different for different years, so ensuring you got the wiring for your model will ensure you capture the grounding points.

                      Ultimately there is not a lot to these engines, but you have to have the basics done right, otherwise we're stating into the abyss trying to help you.

                      Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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