DT125R FORUM

Do you have any trusted porters ? Or machineists?
I like in harrow (london) or watford....

Im looking for sandblast/powder coaters
A rebore with new sleeve and forged piston
And porting/polishing

The y1 has had a slight rub with some wet dry multiple stages of grit mounted to a glass panel.

@calum 3bn 3mb.... is there a superior barrel ?

As under inspection of the pics i took today... and i have a 3bn head (x2) and a 3mb barrel!

Its not that i want to use it - i will buy another tm28ss and have it enlarged when money is on my side next month.
As i wish to get my barrel bored sleeved and enlarged too.

Yeah i have been reading an older post of yours regards the combustion ring... i have these two, so which ever is superior will send for machining. Im going to have to look again because i cant remember who was recommended.

Once i take off the head that's currently on the motor i will update with internal information...
The other difference i can see is the banjo screw location on the thermostat housing.

Does anyone know the differences between these 2 different heads? Please shed some light... been online looking for some time now and cant tell..

I can see the that one has "fins" o the bit below where it says y-1/3

See pictures below(if ii get this upload right!)

Carb issue..... https://imgur.com/gallery/C3CdhiF

The file above shows images of my carb.... note the angle of the inlet outlet compared with the original image further up showing it being flush with the float bowl.

My worry is flooding issues.... odd idles etc....
My question was can i run the level carb as the float bowl will be angled...
The angle of my original keeping the float bowl level....

Any light would be appreciated

With the carb above...
Im suggesting a machined billet block but on an angle to try and level put carb(red in the image)
To go between reed valve and inlet maifold (green)
Sorry for poor image but done it on my phone !

http://imgur.com/gallery/uDImGjj

@2stroketerry how much for your head etc...

You say that but its similar to a seat belt light with a pressure plate in the seat...

Essentially its just a open close switch.... open when no one is seated ....
Closed when seated...
Try to loop these and you will still have a seat belt light... because there is a resistance thats caused by the switch.... maybe only 0.6 ohms but its enough. Only way to get over that is looping via a resistor.

Obviously i must be mistaken in way of the DT, as i am new to this side of the mechanical world but its just an idea !

@calum

@calum anything that has current running through will have some form of resistance.

I deal with a lot of pro audio and everything from connectors to cable give resistance which is where my thoughts were laying.

It could be worth still measuring?

This forum is really bugging out on my phone, i clicked the emoji button and it posted!

Yeah the koso i have the float bowl and the venturi are level, where as the tm28ss has angled to keep bowl level.

Ive seen that some people are using wr200 manifold but i can only find some available in Australia!

If i were to get a fabricator to make a spacer for between the manifold and reeds in a wedge shape to picl up some of the angle what do you think?

@darty correct,

I meant bore as in a hole

My mikuni has been dropped and chipped away the threading for air fuel screw... will post pics tomorrow....
I bought a koso 32mm flatslide but doesnt have angled bore... will this affect running ??

Isnt it worth someone measuring resistance of the kill switch on another dt ? And purchasing a cheap resistor of same Ohms and that should do it ?

P.s im new here.