@calum said in Derestricting 97 DT125r: @sloanparkes Sounds like the powervalve isn't set up to me. Ya well I've moved it back the other way... but it doesn't reg above 65000 in 5th and still sat at 60mph ish I'm so sure it's restricted... And ya @NINJA it was right at the bottom and my toolbar on my phone was covering it saying 97 to 99 cheers dude

@giorgio95 Must be first DTR with cdi on the back of the oiltank ? Wire in speedo you messed with white/black from the reed switch ? Thats linked to the cdi then ypvs servo. Sounds like it could just be a bad connection in the circuit somewhere if its kicking in when you move it. Easiest and proper way to set the ypvs cables on the pully wheel under the cover is like this. On the pully wheel in between the cables is a notch in the wheel, when you switch your ignition on and the ypvs spins over its cycle when it comes to a rest the notch should line up with the dot directly behind it. If it does thats it set properly just make sure the cables are tensioned up ok. Same applies if you have to adjust them to get it to line up and then your good to go.

@smudge1995 The complete guide for derestricting; https://www.slideshare.net/kerryprinceuk/derestricting-the-yamaha-dt125-r-1988-through-to-2007-scrimsmustangs-classic-yamaha-restorations

@MIGHTYMAN That was a restriction on the RE models. To be honest the RE's always seemed simpler to derestrict. The obvious ones were the exhaust pipe, YAIS (not convinced that's performance lol), Green Black Wire powervalve. Older Models were reed switch, some had restrictive pipes,

Yeah no worries that what the forums here for. Firstly carbs don't just fail so don't panic. In order for the carb to be professionally setup they would be running your bike on a dyno. Failing that they would be doing runs up and down the street until it 'felt' right. The best thing you could do is set the carb back up as standard as Yamaha spent many hours researching jetting so you don't have to. Unless of course there is a reason why you should be runnning it.differently. If the plugs are fouled then it is more likely to be over oiling via the pump. Either the pump isn't setup properly or its broken. Despite this is should still run If it's not the oil pump then it may very well be the crank shaft seals. Or rather seal located inside the clutch cover. I would always replace the pair and its a crank case split job to fit. At which points it is always worth doing the main bearings and gearbox bearings. Obviously if this seal is gone iit will draw in oil from the gearbox. Easy way to check is to see how much oil is inside the gearbox. Although this would be very worse case scenario. Should just rule that out until we've investigated further first.