Coolant overflow leaking
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So when the bike gets really hot, the cooling system gets pressurised and vents that pressure by lifting the spring on the rad cap and filling the expansion bottle.
If the expansion tank is already full, then the coolant has nowhere to go but out of the drain hose which should drop it onto the floor, or in your case it's probably coming out of the tank capCurrent bikes:
DT125X '07
Street Triple R '11
Aprilia ETV1000 '02Previous:
DR650RSE '96
FJ1200 '92 -
So when the bike gets really hot, the cooling system gets pressurised and vents that pressure by lifting the spring on the rad cap and filling the expansion bottle.
If the expansion tank is already full, then the coolant has nowhere to go but out of the drain hose which should drop it onto the floor, or in your case it's probably coming out of the tank cap@finnerz89 no deffo from frame tank cap is solid so is the tank just too full?
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Yes. I would say so.
How do you imagine coolant is in the frame? Have you removed the side panel and checked? -
@finnerz89 panels were already off been painting and doing work
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Are you sure you bled the system of air? Have experience with that problem
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Are you sure you bled the system of air? Have experience with that problem
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@irongamer727 no I can’t say as I have how do you do that? It’s the first time this has happened
@declan simple, open the radiator cap. Fill the system fully. Start the bike(with cap off) and let it warm up. After a while, begin reving the bike a bit. You will, once the bike gets hotter, see air bubbles escape at the top. Once you have done it for ~15 to 20 minutes and most of the bubbles are gone, you're good to go. But first, make sure there are not any leaks. See youtube for examples.
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@declan simple, open the radiator cap. Fill the system fully. Start the bike(with cap off) and let it warm up. After a while, begin reving the bike a bit. You will, once the bike gets hotter, see air bubbles escape at the top. Once you have done it for ~15 to 20 minutes and most of the bubbles are gone, you're good to go. But first, make sure there are not any leaks. See youtube for examples.
@irongamer727 ohh okay I’ll give it a go thank you
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@declan simple, open the radiator cap. Fill the system fully. Start the bike(with cap off) and let it warm up. After a while, begin reving the bike a bit. You will, once the bike gets hotter, see air bubbles escape at the top. Once you have done it for ~15 to 20 minutes and most of the bubbles are gone, you're good to go. But first, make sure there are not any leaks. See youtube for examples.
@irongamer727 radiator bled it had 3 big air bubbles in it took for a long ride and it was brilliant no over heating @Calum i spent some time tensioning the pv pulleys properly cleaned and re gapped the plug cleaned the power jet and it was great loved it the power comes on at 6 now instead of 7 truly appreciate your help and every one else’s thank you lads
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Once you get her running all sweet no issues, then you can look to tune it up and get a bit more power out of it.
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@calum maybe a zeelectronic down the line we will see but she still needs simple stuff so I’ll keep busy thanks bud
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@declan Aww mate, you won't regret that purchase. Best place to start as well. Simple plug and play. But you will want the programmer too.
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@calum yeah is that a must have in the sense that I won’t get full power from it I know it has a crazy amount of potential when I was reading up on it
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@declan Aww mate, you won't regret that purchase. Best place to start as well. Simple plug and play. But you will want the programmer too.
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@calum what is a zeelectronic? How can it give more power?
@irongamer727 I don’t know the specifics but it’s amazing the potential that the zee gives you do some research Calum swears by it,
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It's an aftermarket CDI.
It's more power because the ignition curve is far more aggressive. Or rather, the ignition is remappable and therefore has the potential to be more aggressive.
There are caveats to this. In most instances, it's win win win, but if you suffer from a lean mixture, you can expect an increase in the likeliness of detonation.
IMO, buy if you want to tune. If you plan on leaving it stock, then don't bother. But then we wouldn't be having this conversation if that were the case.
Always Originate, Never Pirate!
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It's an aftermarket CDI.
It's more power because the ignition curve is far more aggressive. Or rather, the ignition is remappable and therefore has the potential to be more aggressive.
There are caveats to this. In most instances, it's win win win, but if you suffer from a lean mixture, you can expect an increase in the likeliness of detonation.
IMO, buy if you want to tune. If you plan on leaving it stock, then don't bother. But then we wouldn't be having this conversation if that were the case.
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It's an aftermarket CDI.
It's more power because the ignition curve is far more aggressive. Or rather, the ignition is remappable and therefore has the potential to be more aggressive.
There are caveats to this. In most instances, it's win win win, but if you suffer from a lean mixture, you can expect an increase in the likeliness of detonation.
IMO, buy if you want to tune. If you plan on leaving it stock, then don't bother. But then we wouldn't be having this conversation if that were the case.
