Few random questions about the rebuild
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Hi all, currently doing the top end on my DT and have a few questions as follow.
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Ive purchased a gasket set and its turned up slightly different as it was pictured on the ad with there being no thin orange sealant bead on the base gasket surrounding the barrel and coolant passage. Does this matter that its not there or should i purchase another gasket set? Also should i install dry or is it best to put a very fine coating of grease or 2t on it to help seat?
And the head gasket is slightly warped from packaging, does this matter too? This is also dry and just painted black -
Purchased dual stage Boyesen reeds, is there a chance this will mess up the mixture and i'll have to adjust the carb at all?
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The clear oil feed from the oil pump to just behind the reed block has ended up being emptied of oil. Is there any way to bleed this prior to first start to prevent a short time of oil starvation. I'll be using plenty of oil in the bore on reasembly anyway so shouldn't be too much of an issue. From what ive read people just hold the oil pump pully wide open as soon as the bike is started to try and shorten that time. Is this right and is it all good to do this?
Most likely just over thinking things but i like to get things right first time if you know what i mean considering its my first rebuild haha thanks in advance. Been taking my time with this spraying allsorts up so it looks as fresh as possible. I'll sort some pics out to upload once its complete
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The gasket with the silicon bead is a higher quality, but not a deal breaker. I always use red semi hardening gasket ‘paste’, not the silicon stuff, on paper gaskets. Hermitite Red was my favourite...
The head gasket should be used dry and ‘as is’. Unless the gasket has a sharp bend/seam it’ll be OK...
I use a syringe to pre fill the tube before connecting to the oil pump. Suck it up with your gob if possible, then while the top is blocked/pinched shut, fit it to the pump...
Can’t help you with the reeds. I have zero experience
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Anyone Tried any copper head gaskets? I’ve got a couple of different thickness. If you aneal them they should be reusable. I haven’t tried them yet...
I have an Athena head gasket fitted and I can’t tell any real difference between it and a crappy fleabay one I got. Maybe I got luck with the fleabay? The Athena base gasket is a lot better though...
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@SpookDog
Ace well based on what you've said ive returned that gasket set i bought and ive gone for the full Athena set instead. No point penny pinching when ive thrown over 200 at it already so i appreciate the advice. Also i did think about the syringe trick with the oil feed so i'll for sure be doing that too.
And no worries about the reed question. It does say in the boyesen instalation manual that it does tend to make the bike run slightly leaner and to tell if this is the case to do the plug test. Fresh plug, start the bike and go wide open with the throttle then shut it off and check the plug. Dont really fancy doing this with a fresh top end on first start up so yeah god knows what to do. Cross my fingers i suppose would be a good start
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I definitely wouldn’t want to wide open the throttle! My bike never loosened up till it came up to temp for the first time after rebuilding. I just took mine to the MOT place and didn’t go over 4000 revs. I’m running my new bearings-barrel&piston/rebuild in gently
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I’d leave them, or fit them and take the bike for a normal ride and check out the plug... -
@SpookDog yeah thats what i was planning on doing to be honest running it nice and gentle at least for the first 500 miles or so and just gradually increase it. I cant imagine the change of reeds doing a noticeable difference with the mixtures so i'll just as you say keep an eye on the plug after a couple rides or so and take it from there. Looking forward to finally getting it back on road!
. Its been left in the corner of the garage as i got another bike
