HELP! YAMAHA DT125X/DT125RE ( 2004/2007)
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@goprokid95 At this moment i have that setup out of the bike.
Today i have a 1992 engine with 1992 eletric instalation complete. all works fine.
I take out my OEM 2006 Eletrical system becose can't have the spark...
In first place i have the complete 2006 OEM Eletrical instalation without cuts and missing things.
then Burn 2 eletrical stators... allways the same problem... no spark!!i try a last time, i simplefyed the wiring loom, put a new stator and it run fine, like about a 1 year, then fryed again... same shit... no spark!!
Then i try a 2002 Stator + Flywheel on my 2006 CDI Wiring Loom... ( losing eletric start )
I join the wires color by color, it charges the battery fine, it have good blue spark.the source coil on the 2006 stator have 3 wires, 2 green and 1 black.
the source coil on the 2002 stator have 2 wires 1 green and 1 black.
i join the green ones and connect, it works but...dont rev at high RPM's.... it feels like the ignition its out of timing... maybe too advanced, maybe too retarded.. i dont have a comparative gauge or a timing pistol to see that....
the bike with that setup, feels the low rpm very powerfull but on hight rpm its very slow to climb... on neutral runs fine revs fine... when i drive its slow making hight rpms... it feels like the powervalve its closed.. but i try with the pv locked in open position and its the same thing. not problem on powervalve.
and i quit of the 2006 CDI Wiring because i have the complete 1992 engine and wiring cdi etc... and i put all of that on the bike.
but i want to continue with the eletric start ant the original OEM Eletrical sistem...
anybody kowns if yamaha dealer seel the Source Coil separate from the eletrical plate ?
my thing its to see if a 4GX yamaha Stator from TTR225 or other stator like from Yamaha Majesti fits there... becose the Aliexpress and Ebay got that stuff cheap... 20x cheaper than the OEM DT125x stator...
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@karumaspt I may have miss understood what you've put, but sounds like mixing the parts might be causing your problems. I know some bikes have two pickups one for low rpm timing and one for high rpm. So joining the two would very likely cause issues.
And the impedance of the different year pickups could be different, causing them to burn out.
I'd try get one matching setup, all from the same year to remove those variables. -
@dtr-nsr I really don't know much about electrics so didn't want to comment.
But that is my thoughts. Unless you really know what you're doing, I don't think you can just mix and match as you please and expect it all to work.
It sounds like you know more than me if you're happy to swap out all these parts.
Due to the Frankestein Monster you've created, it's really hard to give you a definitive answer. As suggested, putting the bike back to stock is the best place to start if you are unsure. And make one small change at a time to decipher where the problem/s lie.
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Thanks for detailing your setup!
As mentioned by a couple of people above I believe the issue may lie with the nature of the “Frankenstein” setup. Understandably Yamaha didn’t make too many changes over the 30 years they produced the bike but the biggest changes were primarily in the electrical schematics, CDI and the electronic components used to keep the system in a normal state.
The first issue you highlighted, is the possibility of the timing being off or out. On all “standard” DT engines the flywheel and stator only fits a certain way and therefore doesn’t warrant any adjustment. So a stock engine with its stock management (assuming the year and codes match) should be bang on out of the box.
For aftermarket CDi’s the ignition timing can be advanced and retarded but I think the first course of action would be getting a setup that is reliable and works properly before spending money on another unit to then fry it with in it a few months or year.
I think the best option going forward is determining the part numbers you’ve got on the components you’ve got installed and are in good condition and try to use that as the basis for your electrical setup. If the majority of the parts you own happen to be from later machines between 04 and 07 then use that.
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@calum Sorry if i express myself bad... or for my bad english...
i make that "frankanstain" after i burn the oem stator...
i want the bike with full oem eletrical system......
i try other stator ( 2002 ) just to see if was the CDI broken or fryed...
I want to work a complete 2006 loom, stator cdi, pv etc...
but my issue its the stator bobine... i have heard a lot of people with this eletrical version 4FU with the same problems than me.... that's why im triyng to solve the problem... or maybe found the reason to the eletric stator burn....
the pick of the 2002 and the 2006 have the same meseurments ~288ohms
the rest... the 2002 have 6 bobines 3x2 = 6
the 2006 have 15 bobines 3x5 =15I dont know the retard\advance timings on oem eletrical system...
Anyone kwons that ?GoProKid95:
I want to run the bike with 2004-2007 complete oem eletrical system, as a stock bike
but it gives me a lot of problems with the stator... i already see in other foruns like Yam2stroke (the french one ) and the (ClubDTR125 Portuguese one ) and other internet pages talking about the same relative problems.. its the fat bobine, the large one..that bobine its only for produce spark on the plug. i have think on rewind ( repair the fat one ) and see if last a litle bit longer.... -
Okay, so to run the later wiring setup on an earlier engine I believe you will also need a later stator as opposed to the earlier one that is fitted to your earlier engine.
Someone will be able to confirm this but from 04 onwards the stator is mounted facing inwards on the inside of the outer cover. The flywheel on 04 onwards is mounted facing outwards. On earlier machines the stator is mounted under the flywheel adjacent to the crank seal and bearing.
I've been having a look at part numbers and the stators are not compatible between 04-07 and earlier models, this may be simply down to the stator mounting plates being slightly different or the resistance in the "bobine"/coils being different.
How hard would it be to source an entire later engine for your bike where you are from? I suspect eradicating your early engine to match the wiring and electrical system would make it fairly easy for you. Down the line if you're not happy with the power delivery, most of the top ends are interchangeable with a bit of machine work!
When I removed my stator last month for testing it looked to be the original unit with my bike, which leads me to conclude that my stator is approximately 12 years old with about 25000 miles on it - genuine Yamaha unit.
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Might he of fitted a stator & loom that has the electronic rev limiter restriction? It makes sense if pinning the power valve makes no difference.
As I have an 88 bike I don’t know about unrestricting very much... -
@goprokid95 I know that... 2004 bike, the crank its diferent, and the stator fits in the engine cover.
i already try the DTR 2002 stator in a 2006 DTRE CDI unit it works, but no reving mutch.
i run 35.000km with no problems full stock bike \ all eletrical working since factory.
i already make som mods on my engine... my bike was one of the first bikes with 200cc kit in portugal. i let the youtube link here
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oPKfwwHDOKQ
But now i want to put the bike full oem becose the police....
i have 2 engines, 2 eletrical systems
1 complete swap from a 89 dtr
1 complete swap from 2005 DTRE ( thats my blue bike )
so my problem its the 2005 DTRE Stator burning...
As i said i try diferent ways to run the 2005 swap ( oem Bike swap )
the stator is burned like i said. And i try one other stator from 2002 DTR (from other bike)
I make some adjustments to fit a 2002 stator on 2005 engine, it fits realy fine, the wires i connect color with color and it runs, but dont rev mutch (im thinking provably its out of timing)aniway im thinking, maybe the best solution is rewind the oem 2005 stator (Source Coil)
Do you guys know a place to do it cheaper, or maybe know how many counting turns have the source coil ? tks -
@karumaspt I think it's more the fact that the powervalve is retarded after 10k RPM.
And you're not doing it right then, as it's a massive difference.
I remember saying the same thing back in the day when I tried it. Then I went from a OEM CDI to a Zeel, which went faulty and back to the OEM and the difference was mad. But unfortunately I snipped back the wire (thinking that I'd never go back to OEM) so had to reearth the wire and it was a big jump.
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@karumaspt only place I know to rewind stator is a UK company. West country windings. Very reasonable prices and they do postal service. Check out their website, westcountrywindings.co.uk (+44)01279731172
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Never wot an arse on mind I the bike is working fine e jst I don't have wires clips for clocks and flashers
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That can all be sorted.
https://www.bikerstoolbox.co.uk/acatalog/Multi-Block-Connectors.html
This guy stocks many Japanese connector blocks so that you can just reinstall them onto your wiring loom.
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Thanks alot
