So Close!...
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@HOTSHOT-III So long as you are using a modern browser and not Internet Explorer you should be fine. Try clearing the browsers cache.
@Calum It's working now, very strange as I've been keeping an eye on it since my TSE250 engine thread the other day. Maybe it just took your reply this morning for my software to recognise it. Anyway thanks for responding
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Any of you arcane knowledged fuxors out there know where to get hold of the kind of seals needed to rebuild a rear shock? I know that they are specialised & not ‘mainstream’, but I know they are made and available to people (especially in the business) if you know where to look. Anyone know where to look?…
Ta!…PS can anybod tell me what the process is called where you cut metal with a water jet? Or even the plasma (maybe?) technique? I’d like to find out about cutting sheet stainless or high carbon steel sheet …
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Got a bargain £32.50 crank from fleabay! It looks like it’s been cleaned (acid) before having a new conrod fitted! I’ve never seen a crank with so little play, even side to side
have everything new now apart from the clutch actuator bearing, which I’m going to fit a good used one to unless anyone knows the size?…
PS how to load pics? I have no button or options… -
You just do the same as you always do, but by default the "advanced" editor is hidden. But it's just Markdown so you just write it inline
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You just do the same as you always do, but by default the "advanced" editor is hidden. But it's just Markdown so you just write it inline
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Cheers bud!
WTF? It’s in the top banner above the ‘typing area’ now!
I must of been using the quick post option…
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Rod has 2rh on it like a standard one (?)…
Threads are good, there’s just a bit of a ‘knurled’ over end on the inside of the hollow bit on the stator side. Someone hammered on it (a bit) in the past…
It doesn’t float, it sank when I put it in a bucket of water
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Sorry! It’s virtually nothing. I’ll measure it later when I’m sober 🥴 but it’s tight…I noticed the two heat spots on the topside of where the centre pin is and thought it had work done on it. I don’t know whether they heat the sides to split the crank or assemble it, I’m guessing they split it. The spots look well defined so I thought it was someone who knew what they were doing. Hopefully!
…But seriously it looks good. About time I had some good luck
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Rod has 2rh on it like a standard one (?)…
Threads are good, there’s just a bit of a ‘knurled’ over end on the inside of the hollow bit on the stator side. Someone hammered on it (a bit) in the past…
It doesn’t float, it sank when I put it in a bucket of water
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Sorry! It’s virtually nothing. I’ll measure it later when I’m sober 🥴 but it’s tight…I noticed the two heat spots on the topside of where the centre pin is and thought it had work done on it. I don’t know whether they heat the sides to split the crank or assemble it, I’m guessing they split it. The spots look well defined so I thought it was someone who knew what they were doing. Hopefully!
…But seriously it looks good. About time I had some good luck
️Managed to get the early casings for £45! Engine number 654! Sweet!…
Also managed to remove & measure the clutch actuator arm bearing and get a couple ordered. Gaskets are in the post. I’ve got just about everything I need to build…Just need to strip a rear shock so I can measure the size of the various seals needed to rebuild one…
Happy daze! 🤩 …
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Managed to get the early casings for £45! Engine number 654! Sweet!…
Also managed to remove & measure the clutch actuator arm bearing and get a couple ordered. Gaskets are in the post. I’ve got just about everything I need to build…Just need to strip a rear shock so I can measure the size of the various seals needed to rebuild one…
Happy daze! 🤩 …
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I use aluminium oxide shot blasting cabinet that works a treat on small aluminium parts, if you have the patience...
Otherwise I send things like engine cases off to be vapor blasted.
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Managed to get the early casings for £45! Engine number 654! Sweet!…
Also managed to remove & measure the clutch actuator arm bearing and get a couple ordered. Gaskets are in the post. I’ve got just about everything I need to build…Just need to strip a rear shock so I can measure the size of the various seals needed to rebuild one…
Happy daze! 🤩 …
@SpookDog I don't think the stock DTR shock is rebuildable. It's of the IFP type meaning it has an internal floating piston and the chamber behind it (right at the top of the shock body) is charged with air or nitrogen at 300+psi. Yamaha even show you exactly where to drill a 3mm hole to safely release the gas pressure before throwing it away. With those kinds of pressures it would be quite dangerous to try taking it apart IMO.
It's like this so as the shock compresses and the piston rod occupies more volume inside the damper body, the IFP moves so the overall volume of the damper doesn't change and it just compresses the nitrogen chamber. This prevents the oil from becoming aerated which would result in inconsistent and/or total loss of damping.
I just found this which shows how the IFP works, ignore the remote reservoir as the DT125R shock accomplishes all this in a single shock body as they figured that would be all 17-year-olds needed. The DT200R and most MX bikes have a remote or piggyback reservoir to increase oil volume and reduce overheating/fading during serious off-road riding. TBH I've never had an issue with a stock DTR shock so as long as there's no pitting on the shaft and no visible leaks I think you're good to go.
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@SpookDog I don't think the stock DTR shock is rebuildable. It's of the IFP type meaning it has an internal floating piston and the chamber behind it (right at the top of the shock body) is charged with air or nitrogen at 300+psi. Yamaha even show you exactly where to drill a 3mm hole to safely release the gas pressure before throwing it away. With those kinds of pressures it would be quite dangerous to try taking it apart IMO.
It's like this so as the shock compresses and the piston rod occupies more volume inside the damper body, the IFP moves so the overall volume of the damper doesn't change and it just compresses the nitrogen chamber. This prevents the oil from becoming aerated which would result in inconsistent and/or total loss of damping.
I just found this which shows how the IFP works, ignore the remote reservoir as the DT125R shock accomplishes all this in a single shock body as they figured that would be all 17-year-olds needed. The DT200R and most MX bikes have a remote or piggyback reservoir to increase oil volume and reduce overheating/fading during serious off-road riding. TBH I've never had an issue with a stock DTR shock so as long as there's no pitting on the shaft and no visible leaks I think you're good to go.
OK, that’s interesting! I knew that they weren’t ’serviceable’ but I didn’t realise they were charged with pressure in any kind of way. Probably why they have the ‘explode~explodey’ sticker on them!
I wonder how they charge them? They usually have a pfhiefer (spelling!) valve on them don’t they?…Cheers bud!
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OK, that’s interesting! I knew that they weren’t ’serviceable’ but I didn’t realise they were charged with pressure in any kind of way. Probably why they have the ‘explode~explodey’ sticker on them!
I wonder how they charge them? They usually have a pfhiefer (spelling!) valve on them don’t they?…Cheers bud!
…Haven’t blown a head gasket in forever!! So sweet! 🤩 I’ve almost forgotten the Pain (ITA$$!) of it all 🥲
Still waiting on the #654 casings, bank holidays and wot~not Till then I’m gonna build my new (2 me) front forks, ala proagressive springs and new tyre (balanced! No more riding a jackhammer!) new (genuine!) seals and top’n’bottom bushees. Whit new 2me speedo drive…Cost me an arm & a leg to squirrel all these bits away over the last wotever but it’s almost time to play!!
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Haven’t blown a head gasket in forever!! So sweet! 🤩 I’ve almost forgotten the Pain (ITA$$!) of it all 🥲
Still waiting on the #654 casings, bank holidays and wot~not Till then I’m gonna build my new (2 me) front forks, ala proagressive springs and new tyre (balanced! No more riding a jackhammer!) new (genuine!) seals and top’n’bottom bushees. Whit new 2me speedo drive…Cost me an arm & a leg to squirrel all these bits away over the last wotever but it’s almost time to play!!
Can’t seem to get much work done at the moment, my ‘shed’ has no walls and the weather has been, meh!
I’m out of the rain but the wind is fling more crap around than a bi~polar chimpanzee …Also, I’ve just realised that I don’t have a decent head for the new engine! Does anyone have a good 3mb head that’s not being used? For a fair price? The last pristine one I had played pong with a piston ring locator pin
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Can’t seem to get much work done at the moment, my ‘shed’ has no walls and the weather has been, meh!
I’m out of the rain but the wind is fling more crap around than a bi~polar chimpanzee …Also, I’ve just realised that I don’t have a decent head for the new engine! Does anyone have a good 3mb head that’s not being used? For a fair price? The last pristine one I had played pong with a piston ring locator pin
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@SpookDog Ouch, pretty sure 3MB heads are getting hard to come by these days...
The only ones on fleBay are absolutely hanging
Bud, I know. Weird thing is the last pristine one I bought was off of fleabay! It was about £20 as well!! Before that it was the pristine 3mbp head & barrel with the entire 3wire servo & p/valve setup for £140. There are genuine sellers out there who aren’t all sheepled into the whole artificial Dtr pricing thing! It’s just time consuming to find them…
I do have a 4fu I can use, just not sure about the squish, ect…I dinged my (genuine!) fork seal putting it in yesterday 🤬 luckily I found a geezer selling 2 genuine seals for £14 last nite. I also got 2 genuine seal washers for £10 (just not sure of the point or proper placement) and indulged in a fork seal fitting tool for £12, I just hope it works better than my chipped big flathead screwdriver!
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Bud, I know. Weird thing is the last pristine one I bought was off of fleabay! It was about £20 as well!! Before that it was the pristine 3mbp head & barrel with the entire 3wire servo & p/valve setup for £140. There are genuine sellers out there who aren’t all sheepled into the whole artificial Dtr pricing thing! It’s just time consuming to find them…
I do have a 4fu I can use, just not sure about the squish, ect…I dinged my (genuine!) fork seal putting it in yesterday 🤬 luckily I found a geezer selling 2 genuine seals for £14 last nite. I also got 2 genuine seal washers for £10 (just not sure of the point or proper placement) and indulged in a fork seal fitting tool for £12, I just hope it works better than my chipped big flathead screwdriver!
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PS
I’m also looking for a left hand casing for parts. Doesn’t need to be usable or have VIN…Does everybody else balance the tyres on their bikes? All the bikes I’ve owned and ridden and I’ve never, ever had to balance the tyres! Never even though about it. Yet my dtr used to ride like a pneumatic drill and I didn’t realise it wasn’t a ‘characteristic’ 🥴 Bad enough when it’s just one doing it! Throw in the rear with the rim~lock and it’s no wonder I didn’t like going over 60mph!! Bucking Flipping Bronco**!!**
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