Need to verify my bike year and model so i can look for restrictions
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Is the Tecno the “unrestricted pipe” that appears on eBay, for about £100? Doesn’t look too shabbily made (though not well finished/painted) It was going to be my first choice until I got put into touch with HR. I wasn’t willing to throw down the money for a DEP. I think that they’re overpriced, but that’s just my gut feeling. Not that they’re bad. Just flimsy with no longevity. I’d rather pay £350 once, not once every couple years
…Dtre’s seem to be one of the most horribly restricted iterations of the bike from what I’ve read!…
PS I think that Hotshot has a really sweet 3MB front pipe for sale. I would of bought it if I had enough disposable income
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On my 2005 Yamaha DTRE, as well as the header restriction and a breather pipe back into the airbox, there was a huge honeycombe system inside the expansion chamber.
Regardless, the biggest resulting factor for me was the weight of the DEP compared to the stock pipe.
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@SpookDog The RE's/X's are the easiest to derestrict. Green/Black wire on the CDI needs to be earthed to the frame and the CDI is fully derestricted. Then it's just an aftermarket pipe.
@Calum previous owner put a fake akrapovic slip on that is for 4strokes can it make lose power or anything ??
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@Calum previous owner put a fake akrapovic slip on that is for 4strokes can it make lose power or anything ??
@erionmustafa Uhhmm absolutely. You want a proper two stroke exhaust to go with the expansion chamber.
In addition to head pipe length, divergent and convergent cone lengths, an expansion chamber has three more crucial dimensions. The length of the straight 'belly' between the divergent and the convergent cones, the length of the tailpiece 'stinger', or muffler, and the diameter of the belly section. The stinger acts as a pressure bleed, allowing pressure to escape from the pipe. Back pressure in the pipe, caused by a smaller-diameter or longer stinger section, helps the wave action of the pipe, and can increase the engine's performance. -
@Calum previous owner put a fake akrapovic slip on that is for 4strokes can it make lose power or anything ??
My bike would barely do 55mph when I tried a 14 tooth front sprocket, I use a 17 tooth front sprocket now and it’s absolutely perfect gearing for me…
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My bike would barely do 55mph when I tried a 14 tooth front sprocket, I use a 17 tooth front sprocket now and it’s absolutely perfect gearing for me…
@SpookDog 17is too bog for offroad as i use the bike for enduro to its limits so i need smaller front to climb better maybe i'll upgrade to 15 or 16 but 17 is a little to much
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@SpookDog 17is too bog for offroad as i use the bike for enduro to its limits so i need smaller front to climb better maybe i'll upgrade to 15 or 16 but 17 is a little to much
Oh hell yeah, 17 is road cruise stuff, but it really suits the 22 horses I think are going on with my bike…
It’s whatever suits you. If you need some 15 or 16 front sprockets let me know, you can have them (unused) I might even have a 13 kicking around somewhere, unless my memory has finally failed me! Just pay the postage
…I’ve got a ‘hardly used’ 55 rear as well, just to confuse the mix
. …Regarding the tailpipe/silencer, as long as the inner diameter of the baffle isn’t smaller than the ‘stinger’ end of the expansion chamber-front end, I wouldn’t of thought it would make any difference to performance. But! I am no expert by any means. Also I don’t mind being proven wrong
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Oh hell yeah, 17 is road cruise stuff, but it really suits the 22 horses I think are going on with my bike…
It’s whatever suits you. If you need some 15 or 16 front sprockets let me know, you can have them (unused) I might even have a 13 kicking around somewhere, unless my memory has finally failed me! Just pay the postage
…I’ve got a ‘hardly used’ 55 rear as well, just to confuse the mix
. …Regarding the tailpipe/silencer, as long as the inner diameter of the baffle isn’t smaller than the ‘stinger’ end of the expansion chamber-front end, I wouldn’t of thought it would make any difference to performance. But! I am no expert by any means. Also I don’t mind being proven wrong
️ …@SpookDog its for 4strokes or road bikes im not sure my cousin welded it somehow but the silencer itself is wider where it connects and wider on the inside to it has the db killer removed and all the packing burnt on pourpuse it makes hella noise you can hear it from far away like if its a 250 or smth
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@SpookDog its for 4strokes or road bikes im not sure my cousin welded it somehow but the silencer itself is wider where it connects and wider on the inside to it has the db killer removed and all the packing burnt on pourpuse it makes hella noise you can hear it from far away like if its a 250 or smth
Yeah, I’d change it…
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Yeah, I’d change it…
@SpookDog but the 2stroke good ones are so f expensive where can i get a good one for cheap
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@SpookDog but the 2stroke good ones are so f expensive where can i get a good one for cheap
Where do you live?…
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Where do you live?…
@SpookDog kosovo , albania if you heard about it
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Just some product info: I got an Athena exhaust resonator for my bike when I derestricted it, kept the stock silencer.
The Athena gave the bike all the power it was supposed to have and then some - they write something like +3 hp on the site, which would put mine at 26 hp, and I believe it.
The sound became more peppy - not much louder, but with a harsher metallic zing to it. Could be because I used the old washer, I just got a new one I intend to put there instead.
However, the fit of the pipe was terrible. The exhaust port screwed on well, the first bracket was 5 mm too far front, the rear bracket a whole 10 mm, so I had to pull like mad and get rid of the screw insert that otherwise should be in the rubber buffer thingy in the bracket.
Then the rear end that goes into the rubber sleeve was another 10 mm too long on top of that. It basically got pressed into the front end of the silencer with the sleeve as some sort of band-aid around it.
I managed to get it in place with a bit of violence, and I just got a file and a hacksaw to correct it this weekend.
I am also not overly impressed with the paint job. It looks okay but seems a bit thin. I'm thinking of putting on an extra layer, but I am not sure what type of paint to use.
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I'll be amazed if it's 26hp. These bikes are seriously not geared up towards those types of numbers. I doubt even my 170 is making that much power. I am looking to get some dyno time very soon so I can say for sure what it makes. But it doesn't hold a candle to my RS or my Cagiva which is probably closer to 26.
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I can certainly be off by a good margin, I'm going by seat-of-pants feel here, comparing to 30 year old experiences. But are you speaking of crank hp or drive wheel hp?
I had a supposedly 22 hp (crank) DT125LC which I actually suspect was more like 19, because specs differ between sources. It was not as peppy as this.
Then I had a 23 hp DT125R 1990, it was clearly stronger than the first one, hard to tell the difference to this one (I am also 20 kg heavier now).
Then I had a TT350 - about the same weight and gearing, but 32 hp. It was wheelie friendly.
While the old DTR gave peak power at 7500 and lost breath at 8500 this one just improves to 9500 where it quits rather abruptly.
So assuming that it manages roughly the same torque up there as the old DTR, it could be 9000/7500 = 20% stronger, minus error of margin and wear, so I don't think 26 hp is unrealistic.
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I remember it as somewhat lethargic. The number of times I got stuck in a steep motocross incline because I fell below the power band and stalled, then tumbled down head over heels...
The unrestricted DTR was/is heads and shoulders better.
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Well, like the R they did various models.
My brother had a Mk3 LC model one of the very last models and he swears it was leagues ahead of his DTR. He had many an RM250/KX250 YZ 85/125 and a slew of other MX bikes, yet he still to this day goes on about his LC. He was 17 and whilst he'd ridden my mums 900 at 14 and plenty of other big bikes, this would have been his first legal geared bike for the road.
But I don't doubt him when he ways how much better his LC was than my DTRE lol.
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Mine is also strange, it's marked as 3ME and DT125E, but otherwise it's identical to DT125R. I did some digging and apparently my bike is Swiss version and it's made in 1989. So far I haven't found any restrictions on the bike (reed switch doesn't even exist) and it easily revs to 10k, however the top speed doesn't go over 85-90 kph with stock gearing of 16/57
I haven't torn apart the engine yet so I can't compare it to other models, but it is marked as 3MB-00
Then again, I've noticed the expansion chamber is leaking on multiple spots and is generally in a bad condition, someone installed a 4 stroke silencer so the faulty exhaust system could be sapping power -
I think the E stands for Europe, not Electric start as some profess. A 1989 model should not have a reed switch and generally do 125-130 km/h. Should have peak power around 7500 and lose its breath at 8500, refuse to go past 9500.
At 80 km/h you should be doing 6000 rpm in sixth at stock gearing, right before a momentary torque drop. So in fifth it should get past that and reach 110 km/h. Mine is healthy and accelerates past that torque drop, but if there is something awry with yours it may just be too weak at 7000, but once you get higher it comes back into power?
