What was I thinking!…
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Can you view that picture? Haven’t got the hand of it yet lol
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@OllieDTR I use Flickr to post up pics on here. Choose one out of your photostream, click the download icon and choose "view all sizes", then right click the picture and choose "open image in new tab". Copy and paste the URL from that webpage into the image link on here (7th from the left). Front end looks good
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@SpookDog There are places that can re-chrome fork stanchions, only a few in the UK as they're hard chrome which I think has to be ground back to the correct OD unlike the more common soft chrome which is what is used on grab rails etc. and not up to being a bearing surface (and apparently you can't use hard chrome for decorative items either).
I wonder if you could run R1-type blue spot calipers? They seem to fit anywhere on Yamahas those older type Sumitomo calipers were used originally, lots of people retrofit them to TZR/TDR250s etc. I've never done anything with them but @Stevie-Wonder rebuilt a set on an FZS600 Fazer and might be able to advise further? Probably easier to find secondhand and would make for one seriously trick TZR125R
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This post is deleted!
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Cheers bud, I’ll look into them! The disc are east enough to find. Imagine the confidence two 11inch floating discs & four pots will give! No modding, just replace the master and bolt it all on! …
I might know of an old belgarda going that a lad wants £500 for. I haven’t seen it but you can imagine it’s been well used …
Edit:
Looks like it’s more expensive to hard chrome than to replace with Paolo stanchions… -
If anyone can find a ‘how to’ vid or manual, or anything about dismantling USD 4hw non adjustable forks, can you please let me know. I’m 99% confidant in my doing it on the fly, but I’d rather learn from someone else’s mistakes …
I am lazy but I have looked… -
@SpookDog Have you tried Simply Bearings? Those bushes are a pretty common engineering component after all, if you know the dimensions of the stanchion and where they fit, they or another bearing supplier can probably help.
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No I’ve not tried them yet. I’m don’t know what the dimensions are, I can’t find them. I don’t have the tools to measure the existing bushes properly, to the 10th of a MM. i learnt that it matters the hard way last time! …
The fork stanchions are 39mm, the depth of the bush is 20mm, the outer edge looks to be 42mm. I’m guessing the thickness of the bush is a bit les than 1.5 mm, but don’t know for sure and can’t find anything similar…
Edit: nope, can’t even find any bushes on their site …
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Still no joy with finding the fork bushes. But!
On another subject: This is the clutch side crank spacer that fits inside the clutch side crank seal:
Clutch side crank spacer doohicky:
Are these (two lines) wear marks or are they machined to give a better surface for the seal to ‘seal’ against?…
I don’t know whether to put it back the way it came out because the seals may have different dimensions…On my old dtr lump they looked like wear but these look more ‘purposeful’. Any advice…
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Was there any play in the suspension? I would just reuse those they seem fine to me. Pack some grease in there it'll be alright.
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@SpookDog Have you tried Ashley Power in Poole? Depth and stanchion diameter you could probably tell them over the phone but it might be worth actually taking one of the outer fork tubes in to them so they can measure the interference fit aperture precisely as I think this is the critical OD dimension.
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Managed to get the block back together with new seals and crank bearings. The old ones were in perfect condition except for a small dot of corrosion on the bottom of one bearing where it had been sat in the same position for so long…
Got the clutch on and casing buttoned up The inside looks so bare without the kickstart gubbins!…Getting ready to put the newly bored 3MBp barrel and piston on…
Still waiting on the fork seals which appear to have gone awol in the post 🫤 …
54/128