engine piston check
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@erion1 These? I didn't know there was such a brand TBH, just looked them up and the website looks good. Encouraging they're available in .25mm increments as you get potentially twice as many rebore sizes:
Interesting they also offer a different piston kit for the '94 to '04 DTR; both kits start at 56mm (so not sure if the 1st link refers to the '88 3DB DTR as these and the original 2RH TZR125 had a 56.4mm bore as standard) but other dimensions are slightly different so there must have been changes during the '89 onwards DTR production run. Can anyone shed any light on this? Comparing the two webpages seems to indicate .5mm difference from the top of the gudgeon pin hole to the piston crown:
I always ran Mitaka and was happy with them (as long as you get the Japanese ones) but they only seem to be available in .5mm increments now.
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@HOTSHOT-III i don't think i can find mitaka piston in my country for this so i think ill go with meteor as many dt riders in my country gave good reviews about them,
btw the gudgeon pin is not coming out what could lead to that? it gets stuck as soon as it comes to the groves of the securing locks -
@erion1 When you have a heat seizure, like the one you've experienced, you've caused undue stress to the piston gudgeon holes and ovalised it. You'll probably need a tool to extract it now.
I don't think you quite understand the severity of what happened...
Worked a treat for me and was no way I was getting my gudgeon wrist pin out without it.
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@HOTSHOT-III i found a piston that i can get my hands on easy
its called TKRJ they seem to be made in jappan but it lloks to be cheap so not sure if its very good -
I think it’s caused by an Ill fitting piston ‘slapping’ around. It enlarges the hole where the pin is sitting, but creates a lip at the edges. That’s been my experience anyways
…Get a small flathead screwdriver and scrape around the hole where the clip sits. Or use wet and dry sandpaper. It’s not like you’re gonna use the piston again!
I kinda remember Meteor pistons from my past Lambretta and Vespa days. They were good I think…WHERE THE FUX YOU LIVE BUD?!
Italy?…
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@SpookDog no i live in kosovo but there are shops that have dt parts so it takes 1-2 days to get a piston, but if i want to order from mitaka or somewhere else it could take up to months, thats why im trying to see if any of u used them or have any experiences with meteor or anything as i have easy acces to them
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@HOTSHOT-III not sure about the year its a 4bl model 3mb head and 3mb00 cylinder
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@erion1 You can find out the year of the bike using Yamaha France Parts Lookup as long as the frame has a VIN Number. They seem to have information on any Yamaha product sold in Europe, I've looked up UK bikes on there before:
https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/fr/fr/service-support/parts-catalogue/
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Fux! I don’t know what to recommend. I forget sometimes how spoilt we are ‘in the west’. I’d go with the meteor piston if I was you. I wouldn’t go back to the same place that did your last rebore though, if I could find somewhere else. Get them to measure the bore, then supply the piston that fits the rebore that they do. There should be no noticeable movement in the barrel…
If you just want to get mobile again desperately, get a decent NEW head and base gasket. Lap the top of the barrel and head with wet and dry sandpaper on a sheet of plate glass…
I’ve done worse, just don’t cane the beast…Wish I could help you more…
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@HOTSHOT-III i don have a vin it only has a fin someone told me it would be easy with a vin
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@SpookDog it was good when i got it at firs as long as i remember, as for the rebore i got a oversize piston first then sent them together for him to make them fit and the oversize was enough to remove all the scratches, i think that it is movin a slight bit bc of the worn out rings and that it made contact with the cylinder only on those 2 sides and the rings weared ore on those 2 sides and not it taps, hope you understand what i mean
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hey @SpookDog i was wondering if what happened could cause my crank bearing go bad as someone told me that, is there any way i can check that, i was thinkit that the water that got in caused corrosion on the bearing or something, i just don't want my engine to go boom haha
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What are the first 5 letters and numbers stamped into your frame (headstock) and engine block? (above clutch arm) …
The crank would rumble when you spin it, and feel ‘notchy’ if it was corroded or damaged.
Also with ‘normal’ wear the stator could be moved, it’d click slightly when gently shimmied with a flathead screwdriver. Or even by hand depending on how bad it is…
I’d be more worried about you crank if it’s as bad as you say!… -
@SpookDog i checked for play when i had it apart it was perfect no up down play slight side to side which is normal and as the bike drank my water before i was thinking it could have litle bit of water in the crank so yesterday i put some 2t oil on the tank for more lubrication on the crank and let it run for a bit so it gets lubed up and maybe prevent corrosion if it didn't happen already
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