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DT125R FORUM

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  4. Is the Zeeltronic worth it?

Is the Zeeltronic worth it?

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved DTX
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  • Strike78S Offline
    Strike78S Offline
    Strike78
    wrote last edited by
    #1

    Hello everyone!
    I need to replace my cdi and was wondering if the zeeltronic is worth the 300€ or is there anywhere i cant get it for cheaper.
    Thanks!

    HOTSHOT IIIH 1 Reply Last reply
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    • CalumC Offline
      CalumC Offline
      Calum
      wrote last edited by
      #2

      I love mine, I have about 5 Zeeltronic ignition systems and just this week bought another one.

      I'd say, bang for buck, the Zeeltronic made the single biggest impact on my DTRE, over exhaust/Porting/carb the ignition system made the biggest jump in performance.

      Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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      • Strike78S Strike78

        Hello everyone!
        I need to replace my cdi and was wondering if the zeeltronic is worth the 300€ or is there anywhere i cant get it for cheaper.
        Thanks!

        HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
        HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
        HOTSHOT III
        wrote last edited by
        #3

        @Strike78 It certainly is! If you have an early DTR with the 3NC loom/CDI and 3-wire servo, by running a Zeeltronic and a 5-wire servo (more easily available) it's possible to install it without making any changes to your stock wiring loom. You can then keep the 3NC CDI and 3-wire servo and if you sell the bike or just want to return it to stock for any reason, it's just plug and play.

        I'd just get it directly from Zeeltronic, Borut is very helpful and I ended up with quite a papertrail of emails after buying, he appeared genuinely interested in helping me gain a good understanding of ignition and powervalve maps (it's a lot more tunable if you run a 5-wire servo).

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        • Strike78S Offline
          Strike78S Offline
          Strike78
          wrote last edited by
          #4

          Thank you guys for the help!
          I’m going to get one, especially because there’s a plug-and-play option compatible with my DTX125. That makes the whole process much easier and avoids having to modify the wiring system.

          I’m also running a full Firebox exhaust on the bike, so I was wondering if there’s any specific map/setup that I should get, or if I should just use the one that comes pre-installed. I don’t really know annything about CDI tuning, so any advice would be appreciated.

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          • CalumC Offline
            CalumC Offline
            Calum
            wrote last edited by
            #5

            So just go with the stock settings. You can't go too far wrong.

            The easiest way go get started with learning is by having a play with the powervalve timings. You won't run the risk of detination and damaging your engine, so it's a safe place to start

            Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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            • Strike78S Offline
              Strike78S Offline
              Strike78
              wrote last edited by
              #6

              I ordered one with the connectors already installed👌
              Everything went smoothly and Borut was very helpful throughout the whole process.
              Thanks for the help guys!

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              • CalumC Offline
                CalumC Offline
                Calum
                wrote last edited by
                #7

                Aww nice! I've just received another Zeel for my RD yesterday. I've got to wire the plugs myself mind you as it's going into a Cagiva Mito.

                Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                • Strike78S Offline
                  Strike78S Offline
                  Strike78
                  wrote last edited by
                  #8

                  I have another question
                  Ever since my bike came back from the mechanic a few years ago, it has had very poor low-end power and it never felt the same again. His excuse was that the bigger piston is heavier, but honestly I’m not convinced.

                  My DTX is noticeably slower than my friends’ DTRs/DTRE, especially in low RPMs. To be honest, I never went back to that mechanic after that. I already adjusted the YPVS before, but the problem still persisted. I also cleaned the carburetor and installed a new spark plug.

                  Right now I’m waiting for the new CDI to arrive so I can properly tune the power valve again and see if that changes anything.

                  Has anyone experienced something similar? Could the bad CDI cause such a big loss in low-end power?

                  Current setup:
                  Firebox expansion chamber
                  Firebox silencer (I think)
                  Original carburetor
                  18T front sprocket
                  51T rear sprocket

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                  • CalumC Offline
                    CalumC Offline
                    Calum
                    wrote last edited by Calum
                    #9

                    This is most likely the squish.

                    If someone built that top end for you, they probably used too thick a base gasket reducing the compression ratio. The cylinder head could sit be marginally higher than what it was before, meaning the squish is off.

                    I am not saying this definitely the case, but would explain why you'd lose bottom end. I am not sure about the heavier piston, sounds like a cop out, but if a different dome was used, different profile, then same answer. The squish is affected.

                    A vast majority of power on a two stroke is made in the head, so it could be that the squish band isn't correct. This is a very simple and easy thing to fix and measure. All that is needed is a set of vernier calipers and some 1.2mm thick solder wire, with a dab of grease to stop it falling into the bottom end.

                    Could be this, especially as you say, it was fine before the top end rebuild, noticeable after.

                    I once went from the stock 3MB00 cylinder, to the TZR R Belgarda 3MB00P which has a raised exhaust port by 1mm and as a result, greater over-rev (ideal for the TZR) loss of bottom end (less ideal for the DTR).

                    I went from lifting that front end up with ease (no small feat on my heavier setup) to having to work for it.

                    Now I run a ported Athena 170cc kit and I love it for the low-rev grunt. I have my RS125 which is lightening fast so I enjoy both aspects now :)

                    I am by no means an expert and please someone else chime in and correct me, but based on what you've just articulated, this could explain it.

                    Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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