Is the Zeeltronic worth it?
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Thanks for the explanation, that really helps.
Would fitting a new gasket kit (especially base and head gaskets) potentially restore the correct squish/compression? or should I consider getting a new top end altogether?
I just want to make sure we’re looking in the right direction before replacing parts and not waste money on it.
(I realy dont know anything on the mechanical side).
Thanks once again! -
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You can take a piece of soldering tin and bend it and stick it through the plug hole to get a rough measurement of the squish. If the solder is not pinched you can 'double twist' it to get a reading. This should give you an idea if it's the cause. A good value should be 1mm or slightly less IMO. You can find different thickness base gaskets in some places, like here: https://www.motorsportgoetz.com/Cylinder-Base-Gasket-03mm-Yamaha-DT-TDR-TZR-125
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Sooo... a lot has happened, and it turns out things are worse than they first looked.
My Zeel finally arrived and I've already installed it. While working on the bike, I found that the cylinder head is warped and it's leaking coolant into the cylinder, so I've taken it to be skimmed.
I also found that the air screw on the carb is completely stripped and there's no way I get it out
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Can I confirm, you're talking about the overflow tube right. This is routed to the overflow bottle. You have to allow for water expansion/contraction into and out of the expansion bottle. Don't just route this to the floor.
Secondly, a problem I hear is that the radiator cap looses tension over time. It should be rated to 1.3 bar but they weaken as they age. The result is it's unable to maintain spring pressure and erroneously overflows coolant.
So be sure to check both things are in agreement.
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I'm talking about the small tube next to the radiator cap. Where is it supposed to be connected? Mine just routes down to the ground and I'm almost certain it's always been like that.
The radiator is brand new (a high-capacity aftermarket one) and I got it about two months ago, so I doubt the cap has already lost its spring tension.
The strange thing is that it starts overflowing not even a minute of the engine running.
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The tube perpendicular to the filler neck goes to the coolant overflow bottle.
As the coolant heats up, it expands, it needs somewhere to expand in to, this is the coolant overflow bottle. As it cools, it contracts and pulls a vacuum and draws the coolant back into the coolant system.
The radiator cap is spring loaded (I believe it's 1.3 bar) and that pressure is needed for the coolant to vent into the overflow bottle. You shouldn't be ditching this to the floor, it goes to the coolant overflow bottle.
As seen in the picture above.
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