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DT125R FORUM

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  4. Is the Zeeltronic worth it?

Is the Zeeltronic worth it?

Scheduled Pinned Locked Moved DTX
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  • Strike78S Offline
    Strike78S Offline
    Strike78
    wrote last edited by
    #15

    Yeah, fortunately it wasn't much warped.

    I also took the carb to a guy who might be able to remove the stripped air screw. I'm waiting to hear back from him before deciding whether I'll need to buy a new carb or if a carb rebuild kit will be enough.

    1 Reply Last reply
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    • Strike78S Offline
      Strike78S Offline
      Strike78
      wrote last edited by
      #16

      Sooo…bad news me and my friend put the head back together and it stills pour collant through the tube in the radiator…

      Im lost here any tips? Im checking the head if they skim it right…

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      • CalumC Offline
        CalumC Offline
        Calum
        wrote last edited by
        #17

        Can I confirm, you're talking about the overflow tube right. This is routed to the overflow bottle. You have to allow for water expansion/contraction into and out of the expansion bottle. Don't just route this to the floor.

        Secondly, a problem I hear is that the radiator cap looses tension over time. It should be rated to 1.3 bar but they weaken as they age. The result is it's unable to maintain spring pressure and erroneously overflows coolant.

        So be sure to check both things are in agreement.

        Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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        • Strike78S Offline
          Strike78S Offline
          Strike78
          wrote last edited by Strike78
          #18

          I'm talking about the small tube next to the radiator cap. Where is it supposed to be connected? Mine just routes down to the ground and I'm almost certain it's always been like that.

          The radiator is brand new (a high-capacity aftermarket one) and I got it about two months ago, so I doubt the cap has already lost its spring tension.

          The strange thing is that it starts overflowing not even a minute of the engine running.

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          • CalumC Offline
            CalumC Offline
            Calum
            wrote last edited by
            #19

            The tube perpendicular to the filler neck goes to the coolant overflow bottle.

            As the coolant heats up, it expands, it needs somewhere to expand in to, this is the coolant overflow bottle. As it cools, it contracts and pulls a vacuum and draws the coolant back into the coolant system.

            The radiator cap is spring loaded (I believe it's 1.3 bar) and that pressure is needed for the coolant to vent into the overflow bottle. You shouldn't be ditching this to the floor, it goes to the coolant overflow bottle.

            As seen in the picture above.

            Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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            • Strike78S Offline
              Strike78S Offline
              Strike78
              wrote last edited by
              #20

              Quick update: everything is back together exactly as it should be, but unfortunately the problem is still there.

              At this point I'm leaning towards buying a new head and seeing if that finally solves it.

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              • CalumC Offline
                CalumC Offline
                Calum
                wrote last edited by
                #21

                I skim both the head and barrel.

                https://dt125r.co.uk/topic/11/how-to-i-gentle-skim-your-head-barrel

                Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                • Strike78S Offline
                  Strike78S Offline
                  Strike78
                  wrote last edited by
                  #22

                  I've been looking for a new cylinder, and I found an Athena 125 cylinder kit for the DTX and was wondering if anyone here has first-hand experience with it. How does it hold up over time with regular use?

                  In terms of performance, is it actually worth it compared to the stock Yamaha cylinder, or would I be better off rebuilding an OEM cylinder instead? The price is almost the same.

                  Captura de ecrã 2026-07-15 115707.png

                  HOTSHOT IIIH 1 Reply Last reply
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                  • CalumC Offline
                    CalumC Offline
                    Calum
                    wrote last edited by
                    #23

                    I mean, Athena make some quality kit to be fair.

                    I bought their 392cc kit for my RD and the 170 kit for my DTR. I do think they're exceptional value for money though, especially as used units are getting expensive and prohibitively costly to repair.

                    Have a search on here as some members have bought them in the past.

                    Always Originate, Never Pirate!

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                    • Strike78S Strike78

                      I've been looking for a new cylinder, and I found an Athena 125 cylinder kit for the DTX and was wondering if anyone here has first-hand experience with it. How does it hold up over time with regular use?

                      In terms of performance, is it actually worth it compared to the stock Yamaha cylinder, or would I be better off rebuilding an OEM cylinder instead? The price is almost the same.

                      Captura de ecrã 2026-07-15 115707.png

                      HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
                      HOTSHOT IIIH Offline
                      HOTSHOT III
                      wrote last edited by
                      #24

                      @Strike78 I bought one of those Athena 125cc cylinder kits and was quite impressed with it.

                      The plated bore should deliver better heat transfer into the water jacket and spare A, B and C-spec pistons are also available from Athena specifically for this kit (these literally differ 0.01mm in size to compensate for the plated bore wear over time and so are worth obtaining, @calum I wonder if these are available for your 421 kit?). It eliminates the head gasket issues the DTR is prone to and you also get a brand new powervalve and all mounting hardware so it's ready to bolt on. I can't comment on the performance as I sold the bike shortly after building the engine (which also included a Zeeltronic installation) but the new owner seems very happy with it.

                      Roughly the same cost as repairing a stock cylinder as you say but you do need to factor in getting a one or two spare Athena gasket sets and I'd also be ordering B and C pistons (I think it's supplied with an A piston but do check this) as the fact Athena supply these shows they've really thought about the implications of a plated bore. This is something you need if you want to take the performance of any two-stroke beyond a certain level; you can port the stock cylinder all you want (some of the guys in Portugal even make their own exhaust sub-ports in stock DTR cylinders) but if you can't physically remove the heat from the cylinder, it will just keep blowing up. This is why all modern MX bikes and bikes like the Suxuki RGV250 and Kawasaki KR1-S (both around 60bhp stock) have plated bores. Also the 2MA parallel twin TZR250 (50bhp) was OK with steel liners but the Japan-only 2XT version (an attempt to bring the TZR250 up to RGV/KR1-S levels) had plated bores.

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